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#41
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I have learned some tricks and posted them in forums... - Any rubber mounts will compress with time, recall that the engine is very heavy and with every jolt on the road, it will keep "hammering" down on the engine mounts. - Below is a photo of my 1998 528i E39 with 115K. Nothing wrong with that car, I just replaced the engine mounts bc "people tell me I should replace engine mounts at 115K lol...". In retrospect, I should have left them alone and replace them at let's say 160K-200K range. Old engine mounts on the left and is about 5mm compressed. Again no big deal bc a brand-new engine mount will compress under weight anyway. - Any engine mounts perform 2 essential functions: 1. Absorbing the weight on the engine, whether stationary or under load (pot holes on the road). 2. Preventing engine lifting underload. When viewed from the front bumper... - Crank pulley rotates CW. - Engine has a tendency to rotate CCW (Newton's 3rd law). - When the engine mount's upper bolt and its rubber becomes separated from the rest of the rubber, the engine will lift upward under load. Below is an example of an E46 3-series with broken L engine mount, the engine lifts upward underload... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtHem8KpFOw
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT Last edited by cn90; 10-02-2021 at 12:22 PM. |
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#42
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Quote:
The engine hangar was essential, one tip I have is don't do both at the same time. Loosen both maybe, but only unfasten and remove one at a time, otherwise you are going to have a hard time aligning everything again if you do both at once. |
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