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  #21  
Old 08-01-2018, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
... I don't think the turbo/manifold bolts are an e-bolt - they are just a "double-hex" head and any good 12 point socket will work. ...
I see it now. I have not come across too many of those, other than axle nuts.

My Porsche uses triple-squares, but those are much sharper than the double-hex you've got there.

I don't especially like these Craftsman universal ones for hex bolts, but I have found a few times where the versatility makes them work on weird stuff. And that's why I keep the SAE as well as the metric versions, since the only thing I know is that it will be something weird and all bets are off.

And in general, the E12 head is pretty common on these cars. I think I'm going to need this when I take off the starter soon (to inspect and maybe replace brushes, just because it's right in front of me with the head off).

Too bad the sears website no longer works overseas. I guess we're lucky it still works here. But they sold the Craftsman brand to Stanley Black and Decker a year or so ago, so the brand will live on even after Sears goes under.
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  #22  
Old 08-01-2018, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by deepblonde View Post
Yes, I think you’re right.
I wasn’t able to get a good fit on the bolt near the cylinder head, so I kept thinking I had the wrong socket size. Eventually I got it off with the spline socket.
But if you aren’t going to remove the turbo, how are you going to clean the side of the cylinder head ready for your new gaskets? Just do it blindly?
I think because the gaskets are thin stainless types, there won't be too much head/maniface face cleaning to do. Videos I've seen show no issues at all. But if there is, I'm pretty sure that with a mirror and a light I can get in there and sort any rough spots etc.

I'm going to remove the MAF assembly, along with all the turbo's compressor inlet and outlet ducting. This should give me plenty of room up front to extract the old manifold, access the head/manifold faces and slide in the new manifold.

That's the current plan anyway...
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  #23  
Old 08-02-2018, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
... My Porsche uses triple-squares, but those are much sharper than the double-hex you've got there. ...
Sure are - the VW Golf cars my kids seem drawn to use a lot of triple-square drive fasteners too.. Odd that..

The big difference between triple-square and double-hex (sometimes known as bi-hex) is the angle of the points - a triple square point is 90 deg. and double-hex is 60 deg. Close but not the same.
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  #24  
Old 08-02-2018, 03:53 AM
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... And the nuts would be 11mm if I remember.
I was sitting at work today and I suddenly realised that your comment about the manifold nuts being 11mm was more important than I first realised.

I guess you were referring to the OEM nuts, on the OEM manifold. I was so focussed on the new parts, I had neglected to consider the removal process.

Looking at images of the OEM nuts, the DO appear to have a smaller hex than the new ones...

OEM...



X8R replacement nuts...



So now I'm off to order another deep socket, this time a 3/8" drive 11mm version. Thanks deepblonde...

*edit* AND.. a 10mm socket too - further research shows some folks stating that the OEM nuts are 10mm. For example, from BMWxMAX...

"On the native collector were nuts for 10, with the new went to 12 (all copper)"
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Last edited by wpoll; 08-02-2018 at 04:00 AM.
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  #25  
Old 08-02-2018, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
I was sitting at work today and I suddenly realised that your comment about the manifold nuts being 11mm was more important than I first realised.

I guess you were referring to the OEM nuts, on the OEM manifold. I was so focussed on the new parts, I had neglected to consider the removal process.

Looking at images of the OEM nuts, the DO appear to have a smaller hex than the new ones...

OEM...

So now I'm off to order another deep socket, this time a 3/8" drive 11mm version. Thanks deepblonde...

*edit* AND.. a 10mm socket too - further research shows some folks stating that the OEM nuts are 10mm. For example, from BMWxMAX...

"On the native collector were nuts for 10, with the new went to 12 (all copper)"
Actually, I can’t remember what they were, could have been 12mm?
I used PB Blaster to loosen them though, very toxic, but very effective.

And my intercooler was full of oil, despite not having EGR..
Might be worth cleaning that too Wpoll....
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  #26  
Old 08-02-2018, 04:19 AM
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Thanks deepblonde. Yep, everything I take off and everything I can get at will be cleaned out. I have new gaskets for the EGR and intake body so will tackle that too.
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  #27  
Old 08-06-2018, 12:26 AM
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Hey wpoll, when are you planning on doing the manifold replacement?


I'm keen to see how you go.
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  #28  
Old 08-06-2018, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by nice1guv View Post
Hey wpoll, when are you planning on doing the manifold replacement?


I'm keen to see how you go.
So am I..

Still gathering tools and parts. I have the manifold (kit) and most of the required tools - primarily waiting on turbo outlet gaskets etc.
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  #29  
Old 08-08-2018, 04:25 AM
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So, the tool gathering continues... this little gem arrived today, a Koken 12mm 6pt nut-grip socket...



From here....

https://mytools.co.nz/products/38dr-...socket-6-point

It's perfect for installing the new manifold nuts without dropping them deep into the bowels of the engine bay...



Just about every nut and bolt I need to access on this job requires a specialist spanner or socket. But I'm building a great tool collection along the way!
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  #30  
Old 08-08-2018, 04:42 AM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
So, the tool gathering continues... this little gem arrived today, a Koken 12mm 6pt nut-grip socket...



From here....

https://mytools.co.nz/products/38dr-...socket-6-point

It's perfect for installing the new manifold nuts without dropping them deep into the bowels of the engine bay...



Just about every nut and bolt I need to access on this job requires a specialist spanner or socket. But I'm building a great tool collection along the way!
I found one of the nuts and it was 10mm;
I never changed the studs though,
I was too concerned a stud may have corroded itself into the aluminium head, and I didn’t want to risk stripping the threads , etc
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