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  #11  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:29 PM
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I love the wall of shame and the pricing that goes up if you tried to fix first.

I drilled holes through my keys to put Allen screws to bolt them shut. I did earn a spot on the wall because I drilled through a trace on one of the 6 holes. Fortunately I caught it and fixed with a jumper.

Both of my keys had broken solder joints. Neither was the battery. One had a bad Battery I replaced with the correct rechargable. It's not a good first timer job but if you've torn into "no user serviceable parts" especially cutting into plastic it's not a terribly difficult job.

The key [sic] is that you want to have another working key first so if you have one key only, get a duplicate from the dealer and then once it's programed as the master you can tear into the non remote one.


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  #12  
Old 09-13-2018, 07:39 PM
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Careful on the style of key fob the one in the picture has the separate ews chip. If you have that style you could actually use to start the car. I'm not aware of E53 that uses it though since mine is 01 and doesn't


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  #13  
Old 09-13-2018, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white46 View Post
Whoa! Awesome. Thanks for this. I've ordered a pair of them to test.
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  #14  
Old 09-13-2018, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srmmmm View Post
Don't go too long on opening the door lock manually - the mechanism only lasted about 3 months on mine before the entire cylinder just spun in the door handle. I was forced to replace it and get a new key after the key had stopped transmitting.


2002 X5 3.0 348,200 miles
2014 428i 40,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration
That may have more to do with the THREE HUNDRED AND FIFTY THOUSAND MILES you have on your X5.

Holy crap man - that is incredible! That is literally *over* three and a half times as many miles as mine has. I have about 89,000 on my '04 X5 and freaking everything is breaking on it! Seriously - I've replaced three power locks, two window regulators, one cylinder head, both rear air shocks, all of my calipers and rotors, installed a stent to fix a coolant leak, replaced the upper rad hose. I still need to install another new window regulator, my rear tailgate release is broken, neither of my keys work, my gauge cluster needs to be replaced (I guess ), the transmission seems a little rougher than it used to, the engine feels down in power, there's a lot of oil around my power steering pump, I need to replace the hood alarm sensor, both of my headlights are a bit hazy looking and need to be sanded and refinished...

How did you do it? How did you keep up with the repairs for 350,000 miles?

Lol
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  #15  
Old 09-13-2018, 09:45 PM
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Problem with 2004 BMW X5 remote keys

Pretty sure srmmmm just has a personal dynometer where he parks his X5 when he's not driving it so he can keep the engine at normal operating temperature at all times even when he's sleeping.

Trade off or piling on an insane amount of miles but they are low impact miles!

All in jest of course. He has the M54 engine one of the most reliable engines of all times and maintains with prevention in mind rather than wait for it to fail first.

I bought my car at 128,000. The engine looked and performed like new when I got it and the suspension and chassis performed like a sports car.

Going through some growing pains right now but once they are ironed out I'm confident I'll be back on track to double my original miles: my goal is to get 1/4 of a million before I upgrade to my next X5. I want one with dynamic drive.


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Last edited by andrewwynn; 09-14-2018 at 08:38 AM.
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  #16  
Old 09-13-2018, 10:10 PM
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@Andrewwynn - lol
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  #17  
Old 09-15-2018, 04:39 AM
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Momus . The key & lock issues you have - I had exactly the same issues and symptoms. I previously used the key to unlock the door tumbler, but the lock cylinder itself broke after 1-2 years of daily use (rebuilt with a kit). This prompted me to check the two issues: keys or the FZV module.

I sent one key to the GM5 guy who redoes them (battery was dead but it didn't fix my issue). www.bmwgm5.com

In my case it was the FZV module (inside the rear hatch, you remove the upper plastic cover) that was defective. I bought a used FZV (check the frequency as there are different once depending on where you live in the world). Easy to replace (no coding required) and it fixed my problems.

As for the other issues you describe, some are simply due to the age of the car (headlight lens hazing) vs. others due to endemic E53 replacement items.
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2002 Euro X5 (E53) 3.0 diesel (M57)
5 speed manual with UUC short shifter.
Pre-xDrive NV125 transfer case (chain & gears).
Factory Xenon headlights, Spyder LED tail lights
Updated vortex crankcase breather.
Motorsport dead pedal, factory fire extinguisher, factory first aid kit, factory F&R mud flaps, factory PDC

Bilstein B6 shocks F&R
Redline oil has replaced "lifetime" fluids (F&R diff, manual transmission, transfer case and P/S).
Dimple magnetic drain plugs in all compartments.
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  #18  
Old 09-15-2018, 09:25 AM
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Thanks Gregory. I have a replacement key on the way which I'll test against my existing FZV, and if it doesn't work I'll order a replacement FZV module. I really appreciate the suggestion.

And, yeah... there just seems to be an awful lot of endemic replacement issues on the X5 compared to other vehicles I've had. I mean, even my Porsche 996 convertible didn't spit up parts with the regularity that the X5 does. It's such a great vehicle when it's running properly (in fact it's my favorite of all the ones I've ever owned) but man it requires a lot of maintenance.
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