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  #11  
Old 02-18-2019, 06:59 PM
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.1 decrease 0-60 time = $1000 & DIY
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gogubjp View Post
Thanks for your reply buddy.
I will buy a good one...i hope 😜 thats why i write here, maybe is someone hwre to help and give me a link to a good tools set.

But my big question was if i need to change somethine else apart of that 3.

Deciding what else to replace as preventative maintenance when you are doing any repair is different based on mileage of other parts, budget and how long you plan to keep your X5, whether or not it has to be available as a daily driver. It's true that the timing chain is not a chronic problem with your engine. I assume you were having a timing chain problem. Do you have symptoms of problems with timing chain or bad valve seals?
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  #12  
Old 02-18-2019, 08:17 PM
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.1 decrease 0-60 time = $1000 & DIY
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_robot View Post
Yea not doing the chain will save you hours of labor, just not worth it unless something is wrong. Nothing you are doing takes you even halfway there. Might as well do the oil pan gasket if you are set on doing it.

Also it will be easier to pull the motor out completely and refresh all.
I hope you are joking about being easier to pull the motor.
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2019, 05:39 AM
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I dont have any problems with timing chain, just like everyone said on almoust every group on facebook, IF YOU DIDNT REPLACE IT, HAVE TO DO IT.

My problem is that i have some oil on my alternator, last month start to charge only 12.6v-13.4v, and i decided to buy a new one, maybe because was old, or maybe because the oil...i dont know, so i think i need to change the bracket gasket.

And about the valve stem seals, after i idle it for 5-6mins and rev the car, came smoke on exhaust...and i was thinking need to change them...but 2 days ago someone told me to check the ccv valve, and when i check them (i think the previous owner change them) didnt press hard on the black caps, because that black caps have 6 clips, and one stays only in 3 clips and the other one stays in 5 clips...so next time before i drive the car i will check if still oil under them (i drive the car only sundays).

And when i change the alternator, i find some antifreeze between the engine and gearbox...from where you think can come ?
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2019, 07:21 AM
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Please take FB mechanical advise with a grain of salt...

The alternator gasket is next to the alternator so it wouldn't cover it with oil, at least from the top. Your valve cover gasket is what is leaking and dripping on top of the alternator probably.

All your suspension and axle would be covered in oil.

I would replace the ccv caps if your tabs are broken.

ATF gets mixed with coolant at the heat exchanger if you have a leak there, it's on the front right bottom of radiator (it's a silver box).
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  #15  
Old 02-19-2019, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gogubjp View Post

And when i change the alternator, i find some antifreeze between the engine and gearbox...from where you think can come ?
It's coming from behind the alternator bracket. There is an opening to the engine and there is a gasket between the bracket and the engine, sealing that opening. It's a known failure point on the N62.
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  #16  
Old 02-21-2019, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by amancuso View Post
It's coming from behind the alternator bracket. There is an opening to the engine and there is a gasket between the bracket and the engine, sealing that opening. It's a known failure point on the N62.
I try to find it...but no luck...can you please give me a link where it is please ?
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  #17  
Old 02-21-2019, 06:50 AM
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=12_1242

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  #18  
Old 02-21-2019, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by EODguy View Post
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

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I know about that gasket, its the common leak, name alternator bracket gasket....but i think he's speaking about another gasket 🤔
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  #19  
Old 02-21-2019, 12:08 PM
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Before you change anything to correct a coolant leak or oil leak I suggest you clean the engine and then work from the bottom of the engine upward using a strong small beam flashlight to trace the leak from the exit point to the source. Coolant and oil leaks sources can be deceiving. Never fun to replace something and find the problem was elsewhere.
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  #20  
Old 02-21-2019, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gogubjp View Post
I dont have any problems with timing chain, just like everyone said on almoust every group on facebook, IF YOU DIDNT REPLACE IT, HAVE TO DO IT.

My problem is that i have some oil on my alternator, last month start to charge only 12.6v-13.4v, and i decided to buy a new one, maybe because was old, or maybe because the oil...i dont know, so i think i need to change the bracket gasket.

And about the valve stem seals, after i idle it for 5-6mins and rev the car, came smoke on exhaust...and i was thinking need to change them...but 2 days ago someone told me to check the ccv valve, and when i check them (i think the previous owner change them) didnt press hard on the black caps, because that black caps have 6 clips, and one stays only in 3 clips and the other one stays in 5 clips...so next time before i drive the car i will check if still oil under them (i drive the car only sundays).

And when i change the alternator, i find some antifreeze between the engine and gearbox...from where you think can come ?
My '05 4.4 used to leak coolant in the rear in exactly the same spot after being parked for several days, and I had a sinking feeling in the pit of me wallet. It ended up being the valley pan gasket leaking. I tackled the project myself replacing the water pump, coolant pipe (with the collapsible version) and valley pan gasket. Look carefully in the valley pan area for signs of dried coolant. You may be in luck

More pics here: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...me-wallet.html

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-question.html

It sounds like you have a huge project in your hands, but fortunately they're doable right in your garage on your back. I did all of them myself -alternator bracket, valve stem seals and coolant pipe. I'd recommend doing the water pump, radiator, expansion tank and the various water hoses. Believe me, once one component of the cooling system starts breaking, the others are right on its heels, so better to tackle them in one shot. And since you'll be doing the valve stem seals, you now get a chance to clean the intake manifold which is required to be removed to change the valley pan gasket. And because you'll change the valve cover gaskets (and the associated seals) and upper timing case cover gaskets while replacing the valve stem seals, you will fix the oil leak on top of the alternator. That leak is definitely from the upper timing cover on the driver side. Look carefully and you will see the leak. All the best
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Last edited by X5only; 02-21-2019 at 07:06 PM.
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