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  #11  
Old 05-07-2019, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickGT1 View Post
I might be seeing shit. But that looks like a crack below the 1058. From left count 4 and 5 tube looking thing. Looks like it goes from tube 4 over the hole to tube 5.

Also, having Phil specifically call out your symptoms, I would be looking for a new valve body at this point. Next time you open it up, replace that shit.

I looked at it again and I just did not see that. I am attaching a bigger image.



Also, a new valve body would be very expensive for me at this point. Is there a dependable place to buy a reconditioned one?


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Ozzie
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  #12  
Old 05-07-2019, 11:57 AM
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I only saw shadows and normal bends in the cast metal.

Did you replace all the rubber seals when replacing the valve body?

Rebuilt valve body had been recently referenced. I think $700 probably with your old core.

If more fluid helped it feels like lack of pressure but I don't have much experience inside a transmission only reporting what I've seen from others. Mainly, always use new seals when taking out the valve body or solinoids.
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  #13  
Old 05-07-2019, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I only saw shadows and normal bends in the cast metal.

Did you replace all the rubber seals when replacing the valve body?

Rebuilt valve body had been recently referenced. I think $700 probably with your old core.

No, I did not replace the seals unfortunately. I was very positive that one of the springs was gone so they were ready to replace but not the seals..


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  #14  
Old 05-07-2019, 02:47 PM
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I would do that asap. I read a bunch of threads when I thought my solinoids were going out and the consensus is never keep the old rubber seals. One leaky seal and you get shitty shifts even if all the solinoids are perfect.

If you were able to add fluid means it was low or the wrong temp so something to look into: how/why low.

Adding fluid improved performance so I'm betting bad seal somewhere. I think when they refurbish the body they can add sleeves where the solinoids go if needed to make tight seals.

Were my car doing what yours is, it would already be on Jack stands and the rubber parts on order.
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  #15  
Old 05-07-2019, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I would do that asap. I read a bunch of threads when I thought my solinoids were going out and the consensus is never keep the old rubber seals. One leaky seal and you get shitty shifts even if all the solinoids are perfect.

If you were able to add fluid means it was low or the wrong temp so something to look into: how/why low.

By seals, do you mean the little rubber pieces inside the valve body?



Meanwhile, I checked the cold temp of transmission today and as the engine was 11c (it makes sense because it was 50f outside), transmission temp showed as 22c, so it definitely measures a little high but I am not sure if that would cause this issue. My next step will be to replace the wiring harness, I think..


Thanks for all the help everyone, once again..


Ozzie
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  #16  
Old 05-07-2019, 06:31 PM
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I can’t see any crack in the upper valve block in your photos. I would expect it to be more obvious if that was the cause.

Clearly, it would be best for you to replace the complete valve body assembly with a known good one to ‘eliminate it from your enquiries’ before having to take the major step of removing the transmission and stripping it down.

Here in the UK I loan out valve body assemblies for exactly that purpose. If it fixes the problem the customer pays me £300 +VAT for the unit (no exchange needed). If it doesn’t, they return it and just pay for the postage.





I vacuum test all the valve bodies after cleaning, Sonnax valves are fitted where necessary (I’m personally not a fan of the TransGo main pressure valve), and then the valve body is fully tested, hydraulically and electrically, on a Hydra-Test machine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54gBRA_yMnM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jm_M4hk1YHI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZH3BkKlNfM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFgB_OW9_PA

Unfortunately, I’m sure that the shipping costs to the USA would be prohibitive, but there must be somebody offering a similar service over there? Or at least could you get your complete valve body assembly tested on a Hydra-Test or Axiline machine?

Phil

P.S. I think the offset on the accuracy of the temperature sensor is a red herring. I think you’re safe to ignore it.
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  #17  
Old 05-07-2019, 06:58 PM
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Thanks for all the input RRPhil (and making me drool to those clean valve bodies you worked on).


I will look to see what is available here and replace the whole effin thing when I can.


Also, what do you think the chances of clutch parts being broken / leaking causing this issue?



Thanks everyone else also for help, well appreciated..



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  #18  
Old 05-08-2019, 01:20 PM
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Here is another question after some research from other transmission forums.


What are the chances of the manual valve on the valve body causing this issue? I remember it being a little loose (too easy sliding in / out). My logic says, all the gear changes (including R) would be affected in that case though.


What do you think?


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  #19  
Old 05-09-2019, 05:15 PM
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Quick update :


I have talked to Erikkson (ZF Dealer) on the phone and they told me my issue sounded like a A Clutch Drum Flare.


Any opinions?


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Ozzie
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  #20  
Old 05-09-2019, 06:42 PM
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The symptoms are certainly similar. However, transmissions which left the production line at Saarbrucken after the middle of November 2000 were fitted with the stiffened A-clutch drum. The 10mm land main pressure regulator valve also largely fixed the pressure spike issue which was causing the earlier A-clutch retaining ring groove failures. As yours is a 2001 model it should have the stiffened drum fitted. Do you happen to know if its serial number (on the green plate rivetted to the LH side of the maincase) is greater than 355863?













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