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  #11  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:19 PM
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I stayed as far away from the fronts of those cams as I possibly could at all times LOL, knowing the sensitivity of the timing I wanted to try and avoid any hiccups at all cost.

Actually checked the timing, got called in for dinner and came back out only to check it again because I had everything in the workbench.

I would like to say Iím good there, but the flip flop of codes has me wondering.
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  #12  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:20 PM
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I did remove and clean up all of the sensors, possible one crapped out, but with all of my flip and flop of parts I would think I would be able to follow a failed part... dunno, itís crazy.
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  #13  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purplefade View Post
I did remove and clean up all of the sensors, possible one crapped out, but with all of my flip and flop of parts I would think I would be able to follow a failed part... dunno, itís crazy.
Depends how systematic the installer is. I will say you are being very systematic. The whole point is to swap harnesses per respective sensors, clear codes, start the truck and wait for codes then evaluate a migrating problem. However, if you inadvertently fried part of your engine harness or a sensor clip, then the problem will follow the harness clip and not the sensor. Of course if you have a bad clip and two bad sensors youíre doubly Fíed and just chasing your tail. Worst case scenario, you can pick up a new engine harness or for that matter a known good used one (dude is parting out a black e53 in the classifieds right now). 12517540449.

I had gremlins in my 1997 Integra Type-R after doing an engine swap and ended up throwing a new engine harness at it and this solved everything. The original harness was just too knicked in a few places to be worth anything.
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  #14  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:35 PM
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You did the valve stem seal job. How many of all the other o-rings and seals did you replace? Did you just do VSS and leave the rest?


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  #15  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:46 PM
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Oh man... I thought about that too, I pulled the majority of the harness out of my way to get in to the valve covers (and everything else) and I wondered if I had inadvertently kinked something, I wasn't rough with it, but it got moved.



I actually initially wondered if the harness was the issue when I had the persistent exhaust vanos 2 code because I had swapped the other solenoids in its place and the issue stayed in place, it did not follow the solenoid. I was also able to clear all of the other codes and that particular one always remained, with the exception of when it went away and I was left with just the two cam positon sensor codes.... dunno what happened there...



I bought another vanos pigtail just so that I would have it, but before I officially did the cut and solder I tested the connection and I got a solid 12v+ on the batt side and 3.4v+ (i think it was) on the DME side so that plug wasn't actually compromised it was just nicked... which also screwed my theory of that particular vanos plug being the issue.


And yet somehow, I am now left back where I started, with that blasted exhaust vanos 2. - And BOTH of my cam position sensor codes went away, and are still gone.


I am aaallllmmmooooosst to the point where I may have to look inside and retrace my steps on the timine, etc, though I am honestly not sure what I missed.
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  #16  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Unicorn View Post
You did the valve stem seal job. How many of all the other o-rings and seals did you replace? Did you just do VSS and leave the rest?


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Oh no, I am a proactive repair guy


I replaced everything - vc gaskets, valvetronic motor, motor mount and o-rings, cam position sensor o-rings, eccentric sensor gaskets, upper timing cover gaskets, everything that touched the top end of the motor, including the vacuum pump, vacuum lines and some of my broken plastic hose clips that I had been meaning to order, got replaced.


It started as a labor of love and has quickly turned in to - LOL...
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  #17  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:57 PM
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VANOS solenoids pushed all the way in? Those are sometimes tricky and hard to push in.


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  #18  
Old 06-01-2019, 10:09 PM
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You aren't getting any codes for the valvetronic, but did you roll them back by hand and do that whole PITA process when you took them out and put them back?

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  #19  
Old 06-01-2019, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by EODguy View Post
You aren't getting any codes for the valvetronic, but did you roll them back by hand and do that whole PITA process when you took them out and put them back?

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That I did not do, probably should have, but did not. I marked mine, motor and mount and counted the turns, then put them back just the opposite... After the fact I did go back and reset the motor functions, but... that was after the fact.


I have just about conceded to pull the covers, check the timing, timing "sprocket" and bolts and just take a good look over everything in the head and put it back together again, just to say I have checked everything.
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  #20  
Old 06-01-2019, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Unicorn View Post
VANOS solenoids pushed all the way in? Those are sometimes tricky and hard to push in.


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Yea, I got a bunch of light on those little suckers and checked that out, no o-ring showing, nice and seated. LOL - I thought of pulling the retainer and tugging on one to male sure it was seated, but that felt counter productive
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