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  #1  
Old 06-08-2019, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5M-ISH View Post
Generally when everything is pulled and your standing there looking at the timing chain(s), cams, VANOS units and all that, you go nuts with zip ties to secure the timing chain(s) in place after you’ve locked the crank at proper TDC. This may involve manually turning the crank until you can get the pin in the hole and verify the entire system is TDC. For everything else like the VANOS, cam gears and cams you scribe the metal on non-wear surfaces. Use your smart phone to take smart pictures of you being smart with all your zip ties and scribes and back it up with a few notes on paper.

There is really no rush during these steps so being as thorough as possible allows you to reference your material when you are ready for reassembly. Because parts are under tension and/or pressure they can rotate when you least espect it or by accidentally bumping the wrong thing or accidentally partially disassembling the wrong thing. Your thoroughly done tear down to secure the timing system will mitigate problems.

This is not to fault the OP, but to say that as a home mechanic, anything is possible. I’ve accidentally installed piston rings upside down on 1 of 8 pistons requiring a complete tear down and reassembly. All because of the way I grabbed the parts and layed them on my bench. I did it one time differently and failed to verify before installation. Good times. Strive to lock/scribe everything you can in place and just take your time.


Amen to that! I really thought I had it nailed the first time and stubbornly continued to try and trouble shoot around it... Learned that lesson for sure but it took me completely exhausting every other possibility first.

You can bet I will lock everything in place this time and once I think I’m finished - I’ll check it again just to be sure


Will keep you guys posted!
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Old 06-08-2019, 01:05 PM
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Cam is actually off, just enough that the timing plate sits about an 1/8 of an inch off the head on the lower side. Will physically need to break the bolt and turn the cam to flatten out the timing plate.

Good call on “smacking” it with a hammer, may just give me the shock I need to get it to break loose and from there - yep, I definitely think that I have found my issue.

I’m now starting to ask myself if it was like that when I checked it and I simply missed it the first go round because I can talk you I cranked myself in to some pretty twisted positions to make double sure this time!
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  #3  
Old 06-08-2019, 01:13 PM
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X won't idel after replacing valve stem seals - receiving misfire codes.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...mshaft/DiHMOp9

No mention of righty-loosey. I think the N62 uses right hand threads on the timing adjustment units. Also crazy different from the M62 looks completely foreign to me. Read the step by step carefully. There is mention of getting the vanos into the start position and that if you can't it's worn out.

The process is quite different than with the M62 but looks maybe more like my M54 but I've not done M54 timing yet.



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Last edited by andrewwynn; 06-08-2019 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 06-08-2019, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...mshaft/DiHMOp9

No mention of righty-loosey. I think the N62 uses right hand threads on the timing adjustment units. Also crazy different from the M62 looks completely foreign to me. Read the step by step carefully. There is mention of getting the vanos into the start position and that if you can't it's worn out.

The process is quite different than with the M62 but looks maybe more like my M54 but I've not done M54 timing yet.



I love simple directions! Only one step to completion.


That’s what I saw as well, no mention at all of reverse thread. I have a second set of hands coming over now to help me hold the cam while I crack the bolt loose and just to help keep an eye on everything.

Help should arrive any minute and then it’s back to the garage until I’m finished.

Will update you again in a few hours
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Old 06-08-2019, 03:09 PM
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As Andrewwynn pointed out, please pay attention to this detail if you haven't already - confirm the locking of the adjustment unit in its initial position before verifying or adjusting the N62 engine timing:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...mshaft/DpNVZpB

"Important!
When the engine is shut down, the inlet and exhaust adjustment unit is normally locked in its initial position.
The situation may arise in some individual cases where this initial position is not reached and the camshaft can continue to be rotated in the adjustment range of the adjustment unit.
In order to avoid incorrect timing adjustment, it is essential to check the locking of the adjustment unit and if necessary perform locking by rotating the camshafts".
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Last edited by X5only; 06-08-2019 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 06-08-2019, 03:34 PM
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Adjustment units feel locked, lobs on 5 look good and I’ve broken the intake cam bolt and turned the cam to align it with the special tool. Locked the cam bolt back down and rotated the engine two full revolutions and rechecked the timing - all appears to be spot on now.

Plates sit nice and flat on the head and take no effort to apply or remove

Going to pull everything off the engine now and start reassembly, fingers crossed once she’s all buttoned up she runs this time!
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Old 06-08-2019, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Purplefade View Post
Adjustment units feel locked, lobs on 5 look good and I’ve broken the intake cam bolt and turned the cam to align it with the special tool. Locked the cam bolt back down and rotated the engine two full revolutions and rechecked the timing - all appears to be spot on now.

Plates sit nice and flat on the head and take no effort to apply or remove

Going to pull everything off the engine now and start reassembly, fingers crossed once she’s all buttoned up she runs this time!
Perfect, this is exactly what the shop would have done Now take it easy as you reassemble. No rush and good luck
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Old 06-08-2019, 06:23 PM
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Just one step left: "assemble engine"
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Old 06-08-2019, 06:59 PM
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I am sad to report that upon reassembly it started, ran absolutely wonderfully for 30 seconds (heck, I thought it was fixed) and then dropped in to limp mode and threw the same 2A89 dme exhaust vanos 2 code...

Needless to say she’s reassembled and there’s no way I’m tearing it down again to triple check my work.

She’s scheduled to go to my Indy tomorrow and sadly that is where she’ll remain until she runs again...

All that said, as soon as I know what it took to fix it, I will definitely update this thread so its complete and closed out.

Bit pissed that I wasn’t able to solve it, but I think admitting my defeat now and letting her head to the shop will not only save my sanity but my marriage as well

Can’t say enough how much I appreciate everyone’s help, you guys rock!!
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Old 06-09-2019, 12:03 AM
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I am sad to report that upon reassembly it dropped in to limp mode and threw the same 2A89 dme exhaust vanos 2 code...
NOOOOOOOOooooooooo! I am so bummed for you and I know that feel. I was convinced this morning you had it in the bag finding that 1/8” discrepancy. What an emotional ride you’ve been on with this. While you didn’t nail it like you wanted (and we hoped) it’s also ok to know you tried everything you possibly could and to concede when appropriate. Great work man. You did a good job.
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