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  #41  
Old 07-28-2019, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnewireAT1 View Post
Thanks andrewwynn!

I think the compressor is the culprit at this point. But the shop should have seen this!?


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That will depend on what the customer/owner/you instructed the shop to do. Did you tell the shop to fix the AC system or just instructed them to add refrigerant to the system.

If you told them to fix the AC system and it still wasn't working when you took back ownership of the truck, you should have complained right then and there.

If you asked them to fill the system with refrigerant, that is what they did. I tell my friends to tell the mechanic what the problem they are having with the car, but never tell them to tell the mechanic how to fix the car.
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  #42  
Old 07-28-2019, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fifty150hs View Post
On the low side? 50 psi is too high according to BMW.

Max on the low side is 2.2 BAR. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-check/Oke6MtR
Those numbers are assuming the compressor is running. The OP's compressor is not running, so it's a completely different story.

Clearly spelled out in my dissertation on page 3, but I understand if most people chose not to read that. Hopefully a few will learn from it.

As explained there, with the compressor off, there is a direct correlation between temperature and pressure if there is a saturated vapor in the system (i.e., both liquid and vapor coexisting, as they should). And that pressure-temperature relationship is shown in that inner red ring on the pressure gauges.

Since the indicated pressure is well below that which would be predicted by that relationship, I suggested (qualified by the fact that there seemed to be some doubt about measurements) that could be explained by a significant lack of refrigerant, meaning there is no liquid, only vapor.

... which comes to the same conclusion as AndrewWynn:
"50 seems waaay too low you are prob just low on gas."

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  #43  
Old 07-28-2019, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ojai5 View Post
Sorry to thread jack however I didn't want to start ANOTHER ac thread.
2003 3.0
Mine stopped blowing cold, 95-100 degrees here everyday. I can't really dive my kids around.

Condenser turns-on
no codes
low side is around 50psi
I don't know high side

aux fan does not turn on with AC - I can activate it with my schwaben scan tool
aux fan turns on when I unplug the sensor wire
aux fan does not turn when car warms up

I'm stumped???
Would love some help.
You're stumped??? I'm stumped!!!! Never knew that a condenser is suppose to turn on.
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  #44  
Old 07-28-2019, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
The shop should not have released the car without either working AC or a reason why.


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  #45  
Old 07-28-2019, 09:54 PM
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I think he meant either the condensor fan or the compressor clutch but clarification is in order


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  #46  
Old 07-29-2019, 12:16 PM
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Yes sorry typo, compressor clutch in engaged
I think my best best is to take it to a shop to get pressure reading from both sides.
I would guess that the fan isn't kicking on because of a pressure problem.
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  #47  
Old 04-24-2021, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnewireAT1 View Post
I have a 2004 BMW X5 E53 with no cold air when A/C is turned on.

1. I have had the system vacuumed and refilled
result: a hint of cold for a few minutes but then just ambient 80 degree air

2. ODBII - no faults

3. Compressor clutch engages and condenser fan works

4. Low pressure line was high on 1st canned R134a gauge check

Question: how would I determine if the issue is the Expansion Valve?


*NOTE: I have not tested with PSI hi/lo gauges yet
The only way to determine if you have a bad expansion valve is to see the low and high side pressure reading of the system when the compressor is operating.
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  #48  
Old 04-24-2021, 09:29 PM
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X5 E53 Air Conditioning - all systems go but no cold air

+1

You need high and low side values. I typically get about 45/250 at 80 ambient.

If it is cold for a while and warms after ten minutes, that usually means low freon and it's "working too well" (and icing up the evaporator).

My scanner will show me the evaporator temp. That can be very helpful
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  #49  
Old 05-07-2021, 06:01 AM
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Havent read the whole thread but its probably the compressor, variable displacement swashplate sticking in the flat position so no compression. Can be intermitent or constant.
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  #50  
Old 05-07-2021, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ojai5 View Post
Yes sorry typo, compressor clutch in engaged
I think my best best is to take it to a shop to get pressure reading from both sides.
I would guess that the fan isn't kicking on because of a pressure problem.


You can't solve without knowing that information. You can rent/buy ac manifold set even if just for diagnostic readings before taking in.

Clutch engaging (click) doesn't mean it's grabbing; one method of failure is that the clutch isn't grabbing.

In any event the first step to diagnose ac is high and low readings while compressor is running. The low side pressure switch is not a simple on/off type unfortunately so if that fails it needs to be replaced.

My AC currently only works when I use my scanner to engage the AC compressor due to aux fan failure. Works fine once jump started and new fan is ordered.

A scanner that can run the aux fan should also be able to show the voltage on the pressure sensor and also manually engage the compressor (but I wouldn't do that until you have high/low readings)
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