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  #1  
Old 10-25-2019, 11:14 AM
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More Door Problems- Door Lock Actuator at Fault?

I know there are legions of threads on door problems, so I appreciate anyone reading another!


Rear passenger side door. I believe the door handle carrier is fine; the exterior handle is not sprung. The door will not open from inside OR outside, and the door lock "stem" does go up and down when the central lock is cycled.



My plan is to remove the door panel to gain access, but my recent experience with the lock actuator on the drivers side door has shown me that when the actuator is in locked mode, simply moving the levers inside the door will not open the latch.


Any thoughts or direction for this?


Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 10-25-2019, 12:55 PM
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Just a guess here ...

I had a similar recent issue on my driver's door. It turned out the problem was with the cable from the inner door handle goes to the DLA. The cable sheath attaches to a plastic bracket built into the DLA, while the cable pulls the mechanism. The failure in my case was that the plastic bracket had cracked pretty severely. The result was that the inner door handle did not work at all, and the outer door handle only worked when pulled a little further than normal full travel, and even then only sometimes.

RussianBlue had sent me his old DLA (with perhaps some minor issues), and I noticed the beginnings of similar cracking on his old unit. So I did a repair on that, installed and that problem was fixed (still have some other minor issues).

So the summary is to check for that bracket where the inner door handle cable's sheath attaches to the DLA. Reinforce if necessary.

I plan to make inspecting and reinforcing that part a standard step whenever I open up a door. EDIT - and to be clear, of course "open up a door" - I'm not talking about opening a door, like every time I drive. I'm talking about taking off the inner panel, removing components, etc. So more of a bi-weekly thing.
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Last edited by oldskewel; 10-25-2019 at 02:21 PM.
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Old 10-25-2019, 02:29 PM
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If the actuator is stuck in double lock mode and the child safety lock is engaged you'll have a very difficult time getting the door open.

Try to use the emergency exit process where you hold the central lock button down while pulling the inside lever twice.

If the inside lever dry fires either the actuator is double locked the kid safety is engaged or as mentioned above the cable is not held properly.

On my actuator repair thread I show exactly where the lever is for the double lock but you probably can't get to it with the plastic cover on (though it's very thin plastic you can cut with utility knife)
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Old 10-26-2019, 12:46 PM
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I did try the emergency open procedure, no luck. I don't believe the child lock was activated, but it is a remote possibility. When last the door opened, mu wife was putting in a car seat for one of the grand kids, so it is conceivable she accidentally engaged it. My over-enthusiastic granddaughter was trying to open the door at the same time I was hitting the unlock button, and that was when it ceased functioning. I'm guessing this was purely coincidental. Anyway, while there is a lot to like about the E53, I am not a fan of the doors.....
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Old 10-27-2019, 03:40 PM
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So today I removed the rear seat cushion, and the seat back bolster on the passenger side. After removing the window shade and all appropriate trim and screws I was able to remove the door panel.


This was made easier by a couple things. Two years ago, a local shop installed a new window regulator for me. Apparently, after breaking many of the push pin fasteners, they did not bother to replace them. Additional, the main sunshade, and the plastic panel next to it had come unglued from the door panel. I will re-glue these in place, and have new pins for re-assembly. The shop also ripped the damn interior foam door panel. This is a specialist German shop. Everyone is a bit of a hack, apparently. To be fair, I should include myself here. I broke the lock tab on the interior door handle cable, so I will need to find one of these.



Anyway, gaining access to the door lock actuator, everything appeared to be in order. cables and linkages all looked fine, but my moving the various levers did not open the door. I continued to move the lock up and down, cycling the levers, no response. Last, I grabbed the actuator as best I could and tried putting pressure on it, maybe a twisting motion would be a good description- and then I felt/heard something change and moving the levers now opened the door! Success!


So now I will remove the actuator and turn to those threads, not sure if I need to replace the actuator or if there is some lube or repair that will effect a cure. I also need to source a new cable, and glue the bits bck into the door panel, but boy am I glad it is now open!
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Old 10-27-2019, 11:40 PM
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With the actuator out of the door but plugged in, lock and unlock the door. You should see both lock levers move when locking and the first unlock press should see just the double lock lever move and then the second press you should see the primary lock lever move.

I suspect your secondary lock motor is worn out. See my repair thread: $12 to fix a $230 actuator .
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post

I suspect your secondary lock motor is worn out. See my repair thread: $12 to fix a $230 actuator .

Great thread, I have read it- thank you for sharing it!


Where can I source these little electric motors? And what are you using for the the low friction material to prevent freezing in the mechanism?


Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2019, 04:37 PM
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I read Oldskewel's (hope I spelled that right!) thread on rebuilding the actuator. Nice work, and now I have a better understanding of what we are discussing here. I have opted to order and aftermarket actuator for this right rear door in order to get the X5 out of the garage and back in service. Once done, I 'll try my hand at repairing this one with no time constraints.
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Old 10-28-2019, 05:44 PM
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More Door Problems- Door Lock Actuator at Fault?

I made a follow up to oldskewel that eliminated the need to drill out any rivets.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#...A-0A5E844AE618

That should be a direct link to my overview of how the actuator works inside. You could use as a reference how to remove the double lock should the double lock motor fail.

I have to fix a couple more actuators and I'll try to do a demo of how to remove the double lock, I'll try to do that with the actuator still on the car, door panel removed to simulate the condition of a closed door with double lock engaged and motor broken so you can't open the door from either side.

The actuators are almost completely enclosed so this will likely prove to be a challenge but what fun is life without challenges?
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 10-28-2019 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:01 AM
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In case somebody else has a double locked door won't open situation I found a photo I took that I've marked up with what I believe is the solution.



This is a photo of what I think is the rear left door actuator still in the car, I've v marked up there photo with a yellow arrow showing where you need to hook into the double lock arm and a Green arrow which way to pull to remove the double lock.

BMW was smart enough to put that on the bottom which will make it nearly impossible to do from the top with the likes of a slim Jim so you will have to get the door panel off with the door shut which will be the most difficult part of the job.

When I take out the next door actuator for motor repair, I will try to make a video showing how to remove the double lock when the door is closed.

I will use something like an unbent paper clip with a barb like a fish hook on the end. You need to grab a bump that is less than a mm thick on the edge of the motor arm.

Watch the overview video to learn the mechanism and you will figure out what rib you need to grab. It should not be very difficult. 3/10 difficulty.
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