Trans Prog Failsafe when cool outside. Battery? VR? Alternator? (N62)

[wpoll]

The TIS page isn't much help either.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-parts/Fz5faNW

This step - "Remove alternator (2)".

Very useful...

[andrewwynn]

Reminds me of this

[haigha]

LOL. Maybe you're supposed to remove the whole engine beforehand, as in the TIS diagrams. That would make it easier!

There's no way I can see to remove anything in the first TIS illustration before sliding out the alternator.

I think the back part that's stuck from moving forward must either get around the bracket on the engine by tilting up the front of the alternator and moving it to the right. Or, moving the whole alternator to the right and then turning it clockwise. I'll give it another shot today, if the weather gets better.

[haigha]

I got the alternator out yesterday... well, almost. I had to take the plastic cover off because I can't get the plug out. I removed all the silicone that we put on because of the broken clip, but still no luck.

The brushes are probably seated fine. I can't press the cap down further. My current theory is that the single little wire in the plug isn't connected, as suggested by Andrew. I know it's thin because I pulled off the protective rubber cap when trying to get the plug out ( also found a thread of what can happen if that wire is faulty, in that case at the other end, with some good pictures in post #8 https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=966587 ).

I'm trying to source a replacement plug. I've sent a question to this seller to check compatibility: https://www.ebay.com/itm/30339114461...m=303391144617

If any one knows a good source or the part number, please let me know.

[andrewwynn]

If you have it out, test it they don't need the plug. Junk yard cut the plug off and butt splice

[haigha]

Good suggestions, Andrew, thanks.

I took a picture of the place the lower, long bolt goes, in case it's any help for any future reader working on getting the alternator out. I think this spot is the main pain point. There's not much room to get the part of the alternator that goes over the back and the bolt screws into over to the right to free it up. Also, the cylindrical piece, not sure what it is, behind it with the square metal protrusion on it, is closer than it appears on the picture.

[haigha]

Today's novice question:

At what point can I test the alternator by cranking the engine?

A. When it's connected to the B+ and plug connectors and securely held in place and the B+ terminal won't touch anything metal, but not bolted in.

B. When it's bolted in, but without the belt.

C. When the belt is reinstalled.

D. When the large intake fan is reattached to the radiator and both its connectors are plugged-in.

I want to make sure everything is working before putting the silicone sealant this time. I'm taking the alternator to AutoZone tonight to have it tested.

Thanks!

[wpoll]

Option C - with no rotation, you'll get no output.

[haigha]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Option C - with no rotation, you'll get no output.

Thanks, wpoll. I was afraid of that. Bolting it back in is the hardest part.

I may be able to reach the alternator plug from the left side now that I've take off the engine cover and the right side cover (facing the engine).

[andrewwynn]

Did you have it tested at auto parts store? That's the most important test. Make sure it works before bolting in since that's the hardest part.

You can run the engine without the cooling fan. Not sure if your model has both fans like mine. I'm going to remove my mechanical fan for the winter.