Anyone ever replaced Rear Control Arm Bushings?

[bhennrich]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Did you do the rear ball joints when you did the work on the rear or just the upper arms and lower control arm bushings?

I really need to do my rear ball joints, I'm sure. I am getting the itch to do mine, I'm sure they are beat at 175,000 miles.

EVERY BUSHING AND BALL JOINT I COULD FIND WAS REPLACED! So Rear ball joints on the spindle carrier, integral links, LOWER control (swing) arm bushings, both upper control arms, sway bar end links. Front torque arm bushings, ball joints, lower control arms, sway bar end links. The tie rod ends were in perfect shape as they were replaced 18 months ago (approx 10k miles).

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by bhennrich

EVERY BUSHING AND BALL JOINT I COULD FIND WAS REPLACED! So Rear ball joints on the spindle carrier, integral links, LOWER control (swing) arm bushings, both upper control arms, sway bar end links. Front torque arm bushings, ball joints, lower control arms, sway bar end links. The tie rod ends were in perfect shape as they were replaced 18 months ago (approx 10k miles).

Thank you for the reply. I have also done the complete front ball joints, thrust arms and control arms and upper arms on the rear were replaced with Hard Race adjustable arms and toe links but need to replace the integral links and ball joints. Did you do the rear ball joints in the car and what mobile press did you use?

[bhennrich]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Thank you for the reply. I have also done the complete front ball joints, thrust arms and control arms and upper arms on the rear were replaced with Hard Race adjustable arms and toe links but need to replace the integral links and ball joints. Did you do the rear ball joints in the car and what mobile press did you use?

I used a BFH (Big Fu***ng Hammer) for removal as pressing without the BMW specific tool proved to be futile. Absolutely douched everything in PB Blaster then used a torch to heat around the ball joint. Just swing for the fences and they popped out. I used the autozone 23 piece press kit to put the new one in. I froze all my bushings and ball joints in my -10 deep freezer and coated everything in copper anti seize. Everything went fairly amazing


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[Effduration]

Originally Posted by bhennrich

I used a BFH (Big Fu***ng Hammer) for removal as pressing without the BMW specific tool proved to be futile. Absolutely douched everything in PB Blaster then used a torch to heat around the ball joint. Just swing for the fences and they popped out. I used the autozone 23 piece press kit to put the new one in.

I am glad it worked for you, but this scares the hell out of me. pounding out a steel bushing pressed into an alum housing. I bought the tool. Any BMW-style rear ball joint tool with at least one flat side should work.

I bought the CTA tool for $120, but the Bavauto rear bushing tool on ECS also looked good. I bet there are even cheaper options on Ebay

[bhennrich]

Originally Posted by Effduration

I am glad it worked for you, but this scares the hell out of me. pounding out a steel bushing pressed into an alum housing. I bought the tool. Any BMW-style rear ball joint tool with at least one flat side should work.



I bought the CTA tool for $120, but the Bavauto rear bushing tool on ECS also looked good. I bet there are even cheaper options on Ebay

I agree on the being scared part. But my family has to drive 450 miles tomorrow for seeing family for Thanksgiving. I was out of time. And there is no way I could fit three kids, my wife and myself along with a weeks with of crap in my E36 M3/4/5. I would have been pissed if I broke it but would have just rented something for the week. But I told my wife I would try what I could in the time given. It worked out for me.


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[Overboost]

Originally Posted by Effduration

I am glad it worked for you, but this scares the hell out of me. pounding out a steel bushing pressed into an alum housing. I bought the tool. Any BMW-style rear ball joint tool with at least one flat side should work.

I bought the CTA tool for $120, but the Bavauto rear bushing tool on ECS also looked good. I bet there are even cheaper options on Ebay

I agree the pounding on the lower side of the ball joint could possibly break the ring of the carrier, not much material there. It scares me too so I think I will go with the tool as well since I will be on the ground in the garage. Eff, can you link the CTA tool you bought? I saw the BavAuto tool on ECS.