Had a bitch of a time setting X3 down onto jack stands today

[onthefence]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

The ramps give you some height in the front before you lift the rear. It minimizes the "walking" issue you were describing. I use that same jack with a section of 2x4 to get an extra 1.5" of lift on the jack.

Still makes no logical sense.

1) Front is raised on ramps
2) Rear is jacked up and put on stands.
3) Now you jack the front even more, since you want stands on front. The second you start jacking, you are in the exact same position as if you just jacked the front from the ground and never used a ramp. In fact, as soon as the front is on the jack, the ramps might as well never have been there. Do you get why I am saying this makes no sense to me? The jack has no "memory" that the first 6" were on ramps. Once you get to the 7th inch, on a jack, the ramps are gone, and you'll still have the walking issue from the jack.

The ONLY difference is that the rear is jacked up, but I don't see how that affects the walking up front.

[onthefence]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Lol. I can assure you this is more like 2 feet more than a few inches.

Yea, that is way higher than the video looked.

In this photo, the wheels are barely off the ground.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by onthefence

Yea, that is way higher than the video looked.

In this photo, the wheels are barely off the ground.

I don't think you are taking into account the 4"-6" suspension droop looking at the wheel to floor clearance while lifted. The truck/SUV adapter kit adds another 6" to the overall lift as well.

[oldskewel]

I use the yellow DJ3000 jack from HF with no problems. I built a couple of adapters for front and rear on my 2001 E53. Works great, getting very high, and more importantly very securely attached to the jack.

Some pics were in a thread last year:
https://xoutpost.com/1135244-post25.html

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by onthefence

Still makes no logical sense.

1) Front is raised on ramps
2) Rear is jacked up and put on stands.
3) Now you jack the front even more, since you want stands on front. The second you start jacking, you are in the exact same position as if you just jacked the front from the ground and never used a ramp. In fact, as soon as the front is on the jack, the ramps might as well never have been there. Do you get why I am saying this makes no sense to me? The jack has no "memory" that the first 6" were on ramps. Once you get to the 7th inch, on a jack, the ramps are gone, and you'll still have the walking issue from the jack.

The ONLY difference is that the rear is jacked up, but I don't see how that affects the walking up front.

Wait, I misunderstood your jack "walking" issue. I get what you're saying now. Just use a block (or blocks) of wood to get extra lift on the jack lift pad for your initial lift. That way the jack lift arm doesn't end up vertical by the time you reach your desired height. I'll use 1 or 2 2x4's for the extra height on the jack's lift pad.

But trust me, using ramps initially makes it MUCH easier and safer to get all 4 corners in the air. Say you are lifting to 14" off the ground. If you have the front on the ramps (at 6" in your example) then you only have an 8" difference in the desired lift from front to back. Instead of the nose-dive situation you have when you lift the back to 14" with the front wheels of the vehicle still on the ground.

Originally Posted by oldskewel

I use the yellow DJ3000 jack from HF with no problems. I built a couple of adapters for front and rear on my 2001 E53. Works great, getting very high, and more importantly very securely attached to the jack.

Some pics were in a thread last year:
https://xoutpost.com/1135244-post25.html

I remember that. Awesome ingenuity.

[onthefence]

Thanks for the ideas.

Yes, QJ photo has suspension droop.
Looks like QJ does get some good height.

Adapter blocks probably overkill since you're not jacking to max height anymore
so the walking issue becomes moot, and it would be nearly impossible for the block to roll. Gravity pulls straight down.

I will explore making wooden ramps, as well.

I might shop a new floor jack. My HF jack is 7 years old, and has a slow leak
Daytona HF seems legit. There is also a long reach version.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...nge-64241.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-Ton-...ack-63183.html

I verified my HF jack is
2.5 Ton
Low Profile (2 3/4")
68049

This is probably the updated version
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...ack-64264.html

[Overboost]

@OTF. I am doing a little work on the E46 today and took a couple of shots for you to see the minimum lift pads to fit under the E46 still raises the car quite a bit. The work stool is close to 2' high to give some reference.

[crystalworks]

Damnit OB! Now I want a ZHP with a BBK. I hope you are happy.

You've put a lot of love (read: $$$) into that 325i. Looks really good for it though.

[Overboost]

Thanks CW. I had to go the budget route on the BBK. A set of 4 Brembo calipers nearly doubles the cost. I have always wanted to go with a BBK since I bought the car 15 years ago but I just can't spend the value of the car on a set of brakes. At some point you have to face reality. $2K all in with M3 slotted rotors, balanced 55%/45% biased Wilwood calipers, Hawk pads and brackets, lines and hardware. Of coarse they sent me E36 rear lines so I am on hold through the Holidays until UUC gets back in the office.

[bcredliner]

I use a 3 ton jack and extra tall jack stands. I jack up the front to full extension of the jack from the center lift point and put jack stands in place. I jack up the back to full extension of the jack from the diff and put the stands in place. Nothing else needed to assist process.

My concern with the hoist is it appears it is too confining,
blocks most of the side exit area and limits the body positions you can get into to work.