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  #61  
Old 08-07-2020, 01:49 PM
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One more try.

Started the car, let it run for a minute, turned the key off and the car kept running. Took the key out, kept running. Unplugged the ignition switch and took readings on the harness/plug and it was 1.65 V on all 3 (5,6,7) and then 12.3V on all the others. Had to disconnect the battery to get the car to turn off.
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  #62  
Old 08-07-2020, 01:57 PM
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Is it possible the IVM is shorted internally and is latching when the key is turned on causing it to back feed the harness when the key is off, until the battery is disconnected killing all voltage?


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  #63  
Old 08-07-2020, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purplefade View Post
Is it possible the IVM is shorted internally and is latching when the key is turned on causing it to back feed the harness when the key is off, until the battery is disconnected killing all voltage?
Like stated before, no IVM on 3.0i MS43.
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  #64  
Old 08-07-2020, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siggy View Post
One more try.

Started the car, let it run for a minute, turned the key off and the car kept running. Took the key out, kept running. Unplugged the ignition switch and took readings on the harness/plug and it was 1.65 V on all 3 (5,6,7) and then 12.3V on all the others. Had to disconnect the battery to get the car to turn off.
Very strange that on those supply lines voltage drops and they are connected to continuous supply. Check the connections and main fuses on front fuse box and also the rear main fuse box for anything strange.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...0i-sav/V5gYZZ2

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...0i-sav/V5ujdjS
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  #65  
Old 08-07-2020, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clavurion View Post
Like stated before, no IVM on 3.0i MS43.


That’s right, I did read that . Is there nothing similar on the 3.0? Ignition relay back feeding, internal short in the starter relay, does the 3.0 have the “16 minute keep awake” feature, is it possible that’s back feeding?

That said, that’s a good question, does it shit off at all, if it runs for a handful of minutes and then shuts off, that may say something too?


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  #66  
Old 08-07-2020, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clavurion View Post
Very strange that on those supply lines voltage drops and they are connected to continuous supply. Check the connections and main fuses on front fuse box and also the rear main fuse box for anything strange.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...0i-sav/V5gYZZ2

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...0i-sav/V5ujdjS
Checked all those fuses, just for continuity and they all passed. I don't see anything that looks horrific in any of them. The ears on the ones on top of the main fuse box are discolored blue but that's all I see. The ones in the back area look clean and good.

I don't know how long it would run. It ran for a couple minutes with me out of the car and no key in the ignition.

Also keeping in mind, it's a somewhat random event. It doesn't do that every time, and other times, it starts fine, runs fine, and cuts off normal.
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  #67  
Old 08-07-2020, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siggy View Post
Checked all those fuses, just for continuity and they all passed. I don't see anything that looks horrific in any of them. The ears on the ones on top of the main fuse box are discolored blue but that's all I see. The ones in the back area look clean and good.
Could you take a picture. If they have turned blue it could indicate that they have warmed up.
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  #68  
Old 08-07-2020, 06:22 PM
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Sure, here's the two areas mentioned in your links.

This one looks clean.



And this one, where the bottom one's legs are pretty blue, the middle one some blue.

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  #69  
Old 08-07-2020, 07:39 PM
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Back at it again tonight, trying to try different things.

I went into the box under the hood where the DME or whatever you call it is located. I took all the connectors out of that back device (the one closest to the firewall), pulled it out and looked at all the pins carefully. Put everything back together and spent about 15 minutes with a magnifying glass, carefully looking at all the wires and where they come in and where they could rub. I couldn't find a single issue. All the harnesses are bundled well, everything is clean, and I don't see anything rubbing or anything with any signs of excessive heat or burning.

I hooked everything up and started it and checked the voltage on the rail going into F105 area. 13.6V on the rail, 13.6V on the other side of the rail, where the fuses bridge across things. Everything seemed to be running fine. I took the CD player out because that's given me a "CD Error" every time problems were near. It started fine, ran fine, no errors, then I turned the key off and took the key out and it kept running. I unplugged the ignition switch, kept running. I went over and measured the voltage on that rail again, same 13.6V on both sides. Checked the time and it ran for about 4 minutes with the key out and then cut off, all the dash lit up and the water temperature gauge pegged over past hot. I went back and unplugged the battery to get it all to shut off.

To say this is perplexing is an understatement.
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  #70  
Old 08-07-2020, 08:09 PM
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What puzzles me is that you get battery voltage on both sides of those main fuses and still you get a very low voltage on the connector supply pins on ignition switch when the problem occurs. It's also a shame that BMW wiring diagrams don't reveal everything on the wiring and connectors on front fuse box. To me this starts to sound like there is something internally wrong on the front fuse box. Why don't you try and remove connector X10459 and see what happens. Switched Terminal 15 and 30 voltage supplies are routed via that connector back from ignition switch to front fuse board. Unfortunately the diagrams don't tell what else is connected via that 10 pin connector.

EDIT: After digging at least fuel pump and body module (GM3) get's there supply via that same connector so those will drop out. But what happens to other electrics?

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Last edited by Clavurion; 08-07-2020 at 08:23 PM.
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