2004 X5 E53 3L D- turbo or injektor problems?

[Redraptor141]

Good Point WPoll.

I’ve never had an issue but i use hose with a large ID/OD wall. So definitely something to consider

Yeh I would definitely suggest buying one of the pumps above. So useful with all the bloody plumbing on cars these days. And cheap as well. I was just trying to suggest ways of testing if the OP didn’t have one.

I would say my 535d had the exact same symptoms as yours and it turned out to be a combination of vacuum leaks and a duff solenoid. FYI the solenoids are £29 on eBay here in the U.K. I would try to get a Pierberg one if you do need one as I believe that was the original manufacturer.

[Redraptor141]

https://youtu.be/dkPuEmwP4oQ

Worth a punt if you suspect the solenoid. I’ve done this same thing on a Mercedes one a couple years back and it still works now.

[norway2]

Thank you very much for good suggestions and help so far, have now had the vacuum hoses checked except for those marked yellow in the attached picture because they were difficult to follow because they were hidden under the manifold and miscellaneous. Can leakage in that part of the hoses lead to reduced power on the engine and a lot of smoke from the exhaust? Seems to me that it will be a lot of work to replace them

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by norway2

Thank you very much for good suggestions and help so far, have now had the vacuum hoses checked except for those marked yellow in the attached picture because they were difficult to follow because they were hidden under the manifold and miscellaneous. Can leakage in that part of the hoses lead to reduced power on the engine and a lot of smoke from the exhaust? Seems to me that it will be a lot of work to replace them

Parts labelled 2b & 2c in the above diagram are easy to get at - they are the EGR components and are not under the intake manifold. The pressure modulator/converter unit 2a IS under the intake manifold, so harder to test.

Parts associated with "3" (3a, 3b & 3c) are not fitted to the e53 platform - they control the radiator flaps on the e46 only.

[norway2]

Hi
Thank you for taking the time to provide such a comprehensive answer, which has been of great help
Took off the manifold today and got the vacuum hoses checked properly and it turned out that there was a small crack in the hose from the vacuum tank to the split located under the manifold, changed the hose and got back the engine power that was missing :-)
When I had the manifold I also saw another part that had a bad hose, when I googled part number I got up pressure converter exhaust control and the hose that was bad went down to the bottom of the engine somewhere, will check closer tomorrow but is does anyone know where this goes and if it has an important function? This may well have something to do with the fact that I got so much smoke from the exhaust

[Clavurion]

If the vacuum hose was with red stripe it's for engine supports.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=22_0076

[norway2]

Changed the vacuum hose today, it went down to a split and on to the engine mounts, even though I changed the hose which was bad I am bothered that the whole car shakes a bit when it idles low and stands still (almost like sitting on a bus :-). When the engine is cold it does not shake, expect the engine mounts to be bad but it was difficult to get them checked properly since they were mounted quite inaccessible. Tried to blow in the hose that goes down to the engine mounts and it did not seem to be resistance.
Has regained the power in the engine but still smokes a lot at start-up and for a few seconds afterwards and then the smoke disappears again

[norway2]

Hi
I still have problems with the engine, the turbo has regained a lot of power after reeration of vacuum hoses but still runs rough, mostly when it is hot. I now think that injector no. 5 is bad, when I disconnect power to the injector when the engine is cold I hear a difference in how the engine runs, but when I do the same when the engine is hot I hear no difference. has anyone experienced this before ??
Is it necessary to code injector if i replace it?

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by norway2

Hi
I still have problems with the engine, the turbo has regained a lot of power after reeration of vacuum hoses but still runs rough, mostly when it is hot. I now think that injector no. 5 is bad, when I disconnect power to the injector when the engine is cold I hear a difference in how the engine runs, but when I do the same when the engine is hot I hear no difference. has anyone experienced this before ??
Is it necessary to code injector if i replace it?

Do you have any software that can diagnose the issue? INPA works well in this case, with diagnosis tools like Selective Mass Adjustment etc...



This can help you track down an injector issue, such as injector #2 in the image above (not my car!)

And yes, if you replace an injector, it must be coded in the DDE.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-lines/45TwIED

I think the adjustment steps refer to BMWs DIS diagnostics system, although I think it can also be done in INPA, ISTA-P etc.

[omodos]

Hello sorry to hijack post, got similar issue loss of power especially up hills, and turbo doeskin seem to be kicking in, the hoses on either side of the vacum accumulator, should I be able to take off the end attached to it and blow freely into them and expect the ari to flow as such? or should be like same goes for the accumulator? do i do as you said take out block one end and apply air soap water see it leaks? m

Originally Posted by Redraptor141

Item 1 (boost solenoid/vacuum solenoid) on your picture would be my next stop after checking the lines. As this solenoid controls the application of vacuum to the actuator. They can be serviced quite easily, just have a look on YouTube..... but equally you will have to remove it to service it so it’s easy to just get a new one and replace it if you suspect it’s bad.

Item 6 (vacuum accumulator/tank..... if you can have a tank full of vacuum lol) have been know to leak from cracks and pinholes. So easy to whip it off, seal one end, use a tyre pump (even a bike one will do) apply some pressure Into it and spray some soapy water over it and look for bubbles. These are fixable with some epoxy to where the leak is. But again is quite cheap second hand as they are used on all BMW diesels of this era