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  #21  
Old 12-27-2020, 02:48 PM
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I'd just install the head...forget any further testing. You were quite careful in your installation technique..They will hold fine...
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  #22  
Old 01-18-2021, 09:04 AM
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Update...
The Bigserts went in well after some minor angle drill engineering.
The head torqued down as it should have the first time.
30 foot-pounds plus 90 plus 90. I used the $15 torque angle tool from Autozone.
I did have to add a small amount of lead-in to the back pin since there wasn't any on the one that came from the Bigsert kit. I installed the head with the exhaust manifolds on and so far that was the biggest hassle of the project in getting past the sway bar with the exhaust. The other biggest hassle is having to do this twice after the Timeserts failed. I did notice that the aluminum felt awfully soft when drilling for the Timeserts and didn't get that sensation with the Bigserts. The next biggest hassle is that it's hovering around freezing in Michigan while doing this in the driveway in January. But we're car guys and live for this stuff, right?
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  #23  
Old 01-18-2021, 11:32 AM
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There you go.....

You're now a Time-sert guru yourself.....
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  #24  
Old 01-18-2021, 02:08 PM
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I know what you mean about the aluminum feeling soft. Luckily nothing blew for me.
I put the head in first, followed by the exhaust manifolds. Also doing it that way, there was a lot of wrestling and swearing involved in getting them past the sway bar. I don't think I had to actually remove the bar, but I did fully disconnect it so it could be slid and rotated to get the cats past it.
For me it was summer time in NorCal, so no complaints about the weather.
Hopefully everything works perfectly now.
Thanks for sharing the experience with the timeserts and the bigserts. I'm sure that will help a lot of people. I might be inclined to go straight to the bigserts if I ever need to do this again.
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  #25  
Old 01-18-2021, 09:16 PM
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Any of you racer guys with M54 motors use Bigserts and head studs instead of stretch bolts. “ I’m asking for a friend” a possible project pending that may include a turbo.
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  #26  
Old 01-18-2021, 10:23 PM
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I believe it will be pretty hard to get the head on with studs with the engine still in the car. I know it can barely be done on the E46, not sure if there is enough clearance and the E53 firewall. It is definitely stronger with studs if you plan on a pressurized intake charge.
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  #27  
Old 01-19-2021, 08:40 AM
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In this case, the engine in or out of the car wouldn't be an issue. There is enough customizing going on that clearance would be created to suit the application. Vroom Vroom. I'm comparing my N54 to my M54 and see lots of simplicity in the M54 vs the N54.
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  #28  
Old 02-17-2021, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Effduration View Post
I said I would rent you my big-sert kit.

The kit I have is kit# is time-sert 1090BS

I havenít installed big-sertís without the jig in kit 1090BS...
Old thread, I know, but I just came across a related reference so looked this up.
Here is the 1090BS M54 jig kit, Currently $477 there at Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/BIG-SERT-M10x.../dp/B01G5X370K
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Here is the regular (not BigSert) TimeSert M54 jig kit 1090, same price at Amazon (BTW, I believe TimeSert tightly controls pricing on their kits so there is not much variation among sellers, even on eBay):
https://www.amazon.com/head-thread-r...dp/B00IDBYXGU/
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But just the BS kit, minus the jig, etc. is the TS5015 kit, currently $99 at belmetric.com:
https://www.belmetric.com/10x15-c-21...it-p-1619.html
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Belmetric also sells the inserts for $3.80 each in M54 quantity.
https://www.belmetric.com/10x15-c-21...rt-p-3696.html

Any of you guys who actually have these kits, care to point out the differences?

As far as I can see, of course the 1090BS has the alignment jig and bolts to hold it in place. And it looks like the drill bits in the jig kits have a little step to get that counterbore 6mm below the block surface. Any other info on differences and how things work? I can see the jig plate has slots instead of holes; I assume that's to allow for two or more different hole spacings, but any feedback on how well that works vs. getting or making a jig with holes only?

That jig plate seems to be the main difference between the plain generic kit and the M54 jig kit, and if the alignment is not so precise due to the slots, it reduces the value. As I mentioned, I was able to use a generic 10x1.5 kit (https://www.belmetric.com/m10x15-c-2...it-p-1524.html ) on my M54 - no bigsert, no jig, no special 6mm-deep counterbore, and got it done.
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  #29  
Old 02-17-2021, 08:12 PM
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I have kits 1090 & 1090BS. I also have the Baum tool B115000 which does all 14 holes in one installation, and is designed to work with TS kit 1015 (reg time-sert M10x1.5)

The jig is the biggest difference between the 1090 & 1090BS kits (aka the two 1090 kits) and the 1015 or 5015 (Big-sert) kit you mention. The drill bits, tap, and installation driver tool in the two 1090 kits are also different than the 1015/5015 kit in that they are already calibrated to drill to proper depth and drill both the primary and counter bore in one drill, tap or install step.

A little known fact is that the 1090 & 1090BS kits have the exact same jig...the bushings for the drill and tap are different. So, if you have both kits you can mount both jigs at either end of the block and drill, tap, and install two inserts at a time..big time-saver.

Using kit TS1015 or TS5015 (big sert) is to essentially do it by hand.. This is not the craziest idea as the existing head bolt threads tend to center the drill when used without the jig. I prefer to use the jigs or the baum tool, which I have only used once. For a first timer, using one of the 1090 kits is the way to go. Full disclosure, I occasionally rent out my time-sert kits to forum members.

Slots - when you mount the jig, you install two bolts thru the slots in the jig into threads and snug them. You then use the bushing and the included centering pin in the hole you are about work on. Tap the pin into the bushing and into the hole with a rubber mallet and then tighten the other bolts...You really can't be better aligned to the hole.

No reason you couldn't make your own jig. Time-sert bushings and centering pins are found on Ebay all the time.

Hope that helps.

Last edited by Effduration; 02-18-2021 at 09:03 AM.
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  #30  
Old 02-17-2021, 11:22 PM
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GREAT info. Thanks.

I'm lucky to not have any need for this info right now, but will be able to make a good decision if I ever do.

I bought and used a TS1015 kit when I did mine, essentially relying on by-hand alignment and precision, as you say. And I used a regular, slightly bigger drill bit to get that counterbore 6mm below the surface.

If I were in that situation again, having nothing, and knowing what I know now, I'd rent the 1090BS from you and do all big serts. Even though it all worked out for me, I can't say I was 100% confident as I torqued each of the head bolts, and the big serts would have helped a lot.
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