M62TU timing chain tensioner - which is best?

[Maruzo]

I think it's Mann filter. Looking at the old filter it looks like they all have that plastic lip on top. So maybe i'm superimposing the image of another bmw filter on top of the E53 filters.

Anyway, I do notice much less noise upon startup. Definitely a good thing.

As for the check valve, that sounds like a good idea. I'll have to do some research to see if I can access it easily.

[bcredliner]

At least the early v8 models had a shorter tensioner which had less travel. I'm not sure when BMW changed the design but my 2002 had the shorter version. If you have the shorter version it should be changed even if there are no symptoms of a chain issue. The spring rate is the same. The spring is just longer. You can't buy the old version from BMW. You can tell the difference to be sure you have the new design.

I've changed the oil and filter every 5-6 thousand miles since new have yet to change the guides at 120,000 miles. I do have the kit and will do when I have some cylinder work done.

[Maruzo]

The steering u-joint is a perishable item because of the rubber/plastics inside the joint. You can look into changing it if your steering is giving you issues.

[Maruzo]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

At least the early v8 models had a shorter tensioner which had less travel. I'm not sure when BMW changed the design but my 2002 had the shorter version. If you have the shorter version it should be changed even if there are no symptoms of a chain issue. The spring rate is the same. The spring is just longer. You can't buy the old version from BMW. You can tell the difference to be sure you have the new design.

I've changed the oil and filter every 5-6 thousand miles since new have yet to change the guides at 120,000 miles. I do have the kit and will do when I have some cylinder work done.

I got my tensioner from fcpeuro, it’s a oem part a little over $100. Compared it with the old part I took out, the spring is almost the same length.

The rattle went away only a few times after the tensioner replacement. I’m hoping the use of Bmw filter reduces the rattle longer.

[Squiggy]

Originally Posted by Maruzo

I got my tensioner from fcpeuro, it’s a oem part a little over $100. Compared it with the old part I took out, the spring is almost the same length.

The rattle went away only a few times after the tensioner replacement. I’m hoping the use of Bmw filter reduces the rattle longer.

Man I cannot for the life of me find the receipt for my timing chain guide tensioner I replaced 3 years ago. Now I am thinking maybe I just took it out, inspected it, and put it back in. If so that was lame. I just bought the one you recommended from FCP Euro. Sorry it has not eliminated your chain rattle! I came across someone with an E53, can't remember who, that runs 0W 40 oil. I know a lot of M5 guys swear by 0W 40. It's a much thinner oil than the 5W 30 I run but the oil manufacturers actually don't recommend it for the E53. However, I wonder if it might help lube small places better than 5W 30. Maybe help the tensioner, VANOS, etc do their jobs a little better? I am totally guessing. I don't know.

[andrewwynn]

It's a total guess on the thicker oil and I would not veto the attempt but would be prepared to switch back immediately should symptoms not improve directly.

I was prepared to try with wife's X5 if the vanos errors didn't clear with the oil filter (I used a quality off the shelf fram i think and the problem went away)

[Squiggy]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

It's a total guess on the thicker oil and I would not veto the attempt but would be prepared to switch back immediately should symptoms not improve directly.

I was prepared to try with wife's X5 if the vanos errors didn't clear with the oil filter (I used a quality off the shelf fram i think and the problem went away)

Thanks. I will probably only try 0W 40 if all else fails.

[Maruzo]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

It's a total guess on the thicker oil and I would not veto the attempt but would be prepared to switch back immediately should symptoms not improve directly.

I was prepared to try with wife's X5 if the vanos errors didn't clear with the oil filter (I used a quality off the shelf fram i think and the problem went away)

I am a little confused. I thought 0W40 is supposedly thicker than 5W30?

Is thinner oil better for our E53?

The oil I just replaced is 5W30 fully synthetic from the Kirkland brand. It’s got good reviews and very cheap when I bought it with a buy one get one coupon.

This new oil plus the Bmw filter is making my engine start much smoother than before.

[Squiggy]

Originally Posted by Maruzo

I am a little confused. I thought 0W40 is supposedly thicker than 5W30?

Is thinner oil better for our E53?

The oil I just replaced is 5W30 fully synthetic from the Kirkland brand. It’s got good reviews and very cheap when I bought it with a buy one get one coupon.

This new oil plus the Bmw filter is making my engine start much smoother than before.

I'm no expert but my understanding is that at normal and colder temps the 0W40 will run thinner than the 5W30, but when it gets hot the 5W30 will eventually become thinner than the 0W40. I guess which one you would use might depend on your climate and/or if you hotrod your car. I almost never race my car around and it does not get very hot where I live so I have been tempted to try 0W40. Anyone please correct me if I am wrong.

[andrewwynn]

It's thicker and thinner. The zero means it's thinner when cold the 40 means it's thicker when warm.

Since usually the vanos or chain tension problems are just when cold the lower number is likely the significant one. The problem is without testing it's just a guess which the car wants. Logically b thinner so it can get to the devices easier but maybe thicker develops back pressure etc. I would prob use 0-30 if I needed to try something different but I've never even seen that weight but wasn't looking either