Infamous vacuum leak SES codes

[workingonit]

I'm sorta in the same boat as Meestahbig, though I do have the Foxwell scan tool already, and unlike him, I do have an issue with spending money (retired, limited money after paying mostly cash for a new house four years ago...long, sad, story), so as much as I'd like to find and fix all the aged, end-of-life plastic and rubber parts underhood, I'm faced with doing it slowly. I'll follow his lead, mostly:

Originally Posted by Meestahbig

... I still have a vacuum leak. Car has 167k miles.
mine had 210k miles
1) should I bother to replace the oil filler cap?
almost new cap, very tight fit

2) I will spray the MAF sensor with cleaner for a cheap try.
will do

3) I've studied up on the DIY to pull the intake manifold and replace the CCV system with new parts. I think the CCV works, but maybe one of the lines is cracked.
undecided: replace CCV with catch can, or new(er) CCV using the "O2Pilot mod"

4) I'll replace the other vacuum hoses.
will do

5) I recently replaced my secondary air pump and I don't have reason to believe that check valve is an issue.
I have no idea if it is good/bad

6) I read it could be my oxygen sensors, but those are expensive and probably ok...
they've been replaced within the last year

Anything else I should be considering???

I don't have a smoke machine to test.

After my last two short drives (10+ miles each), I got the SES codes shown at the top. Two days earlier, my X5 had passed the state inspection with no problems; my two scan tools (Innova 3100i, Foxwell NT510Elite) and my Torque Pro app said it would. So, I planned to buy a cheap smoke tester off of E-bay, to find the vacuum leak(s). But,...

First, I am still working on my wifes Cobalt, with all-new brake parts, adjusted and bled (twice), but still with a sinking pedal. Since I have an injured arm and chronic blood-clotting problems with it, I can hardly do the undercar work, and waited for my friend to help me with the ABS autobleed (on the NT510E), with him under the car . I had to be sure that it was a master cylinder problem, not ABS (I've had GM ABS problems before), before I pulled the MC out. This project was put in front of my X5, by the wife. Today, I started pulling the fuse box and MC, before my left knee gave out, and I fell off the deck, injuring both arms, ribs, and knee(s), so I'm delaying the Cobalt project a little more (I sealed the fuse box connectors in plastic bags, not knowing when I can resume the work).

About the X5 project: for the last month I've been researching/planning a strategy to "smoke-out" the vacuum leaks, but my attention has shifted to the DISA valve, which I formerly hadn't thought about. Now, I am afraid to start my engine, fearing that it might grenade on me (I've heard a noise from the DISA before). I know I should pull it out and look for damage, but I don't know if I should, without first getting a GAS DISA repair kit (assuming it's a BMW factory part, I don't know). If it's aftermarket, I'll never put it back in, after reading about the "pin" falling out.

So, here I sit, unable to proceed with either repair project for awhile, but also having just spent my monthly budget on the Cobalt project....
For next month's repairs:

• 1) I'm going to order the GAS kit,
• 2) buy a used BMW DISA if mine is aftermarket,
• 3) re-install the repaired DISA,
• 4) buy a smoke tester (or build one),
• 5) repair any leaking hoses or boots,
• 6) decide upon the CCV or catch can question,

and that'll take me past New Year's (assuming I can use my arms, freely). Is there anything else I should be considering???

Funny thing, I used to have a big (hidden from the wife) budget for my race car & resto-mod projects, and the energy and ability to fix them; now, neither/nor/none for all the above.

[Corellian Corvette]

Here's my small piece of advice since i know you have been given a lot already. I'm not a fan of the catch-can unless you have excess oil consumption that can't be solved any other way. The factory part has now lasted 20 years so doing it again will likely outlast the car.

Even if you're doing the CCV, you're going to want a smoke machine. Reason being, getting those pieces all together is pretty tricky, and I've done a least 6 of them and discovered a small leak every time. I now smoke-test the system prior to putting everything back together. You've opened up a TON of possible leak paths and if you're not familiar with the job there are plenty of small ways you can introduce a leak. You have to remove all the CCV parts, boots, the IAC, the oil dipstick tube, the throttle body, and depending on how you do it the intake boots. LOTS of places to make small mistake.

So, almost no matter what, a smoke tester when working on older cars is very, very helpful and I would say necessary when going this deep.

I know it's painful but having one takes out all the guesswork and insures the job is done right. And look at this way - by not paying someone for this job, you save the money to pay yourself back for the smoke machine. I have justified a lot of tool purchases by "paying myself back" for the money saved by DIY.

[workingonit]

I formerly used carb or brake cleaner to spot check for vacuum leaks on my old cars and trucks, just spraying on suspected leaking connections. I could tell by sight or touch suspect hoses that were failing due to age. Everything was visible, and made from mostly quality rubber or plastic.

Now, there are too many hidden hoses, and the quality of rubber and plastic lines and fittings seems to have fallen. I think I've mentioned elsewhere that European plastics were particularly brittle and subject to deterioration, in my experience (starting with a nearly-new '59 Simca... my memory goes way back..., then on my '73 Volvo, a '75 Saab, and now my '01 X5...fan blades coming apart). I wouldn't trust spraying chemicals under the hood, for fear of worsening the situation.

A plus to using a smoke tester is that out-of-sight leaks can be found (not really possible if you can't see the spot to spray). I'm on board to get and use a smoke machine on the BMW, but it's just one more tool I've got to get to work on the truck. Always one more. It seems like I've loaned-out or lost many tools I've had to recently replace, or acquire new tools I never had to utilize before, just to work on my current vehicles. The wife thinks I don't need them, as she is so mechanically dis-inclined; and when I'm gone, she'll just throw the automotive tools away, I'm sure.

It's been a very long time since I willingly put a vehicle in a dealership or independent garage, but did the work myself (or utilized a friend, and his fully-stocked shop at his home, to repair problems). The wife doesn't remember the overcharging and add-ons that the dealership would bill for (when I was out of town, and we had no spare cars...I now try to have 2-3 spares... on hand). I do what I can, when I can, just to keep the fleet rolling, unappreciated.

[Meestahbig]

So... ultimately my problem was never fully resolved. Im not sure if updated the post here. I found the very bottom hose that goes back to the oil dipstick reserve was completely rotted and was the case of my vac leak. I was able to replace that hose without removing the rest of the CCV components. that did resolve my vac leak, but I realize that my CCV is still shot. I have the suction at oil cap... and in traffic gas mileage sucks, and at idle in drive, I still have vibration. Tach does not bounce, but engine is running rougher than normal.

So... I'm familiar with the CCV replacement process and know it can be done without removing the intake manifold, if you know how to twist it right and do it blindly. Hence, I called several BMW Indy shops and asked what they charge and how they do it, intake removed or not. First 2 said, oh yes, they remove the intake - they probably don't, but ok - price was like 1600 and 1200. Then I called another reputable shop, and asked, NO they dont remove the intake. Great. parts and labor, $450. takes 2 hours.

Now I get it, not removing the intake doesn't allow for changing some of the smaller vac lines, but I think that's okay. They should not be totally covered internally with oil and should be okay.

Will see how it goes. I haven't brought my car to the shop, except for suspension and tire work, ever... I know my car leaks. I just don't want to hear about it.

[Happy]

Originally Posted by c-bass

Since you're replacing all the brittle stuff don't forget there is usually a couple rubber caps where you could attach vaccuum hoses in the back of the intake manifold on the right hand side if you're looking at the engine. Those have a tendency of cracking and it's very difficult to tell unless you pull them off. You can reach back there relatively easily to check.



Arrows 1 and 2

Geez, how many times I blew that cap off!