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Old 02-22-2021, 11:21 AM
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Help with: Starter motor blocked due to P/N - Yes

I have a 2001 BMW X5 E53 3.0L (LHD) with automatic transmission that I just replaced the motor on. Got everything hooked up, turned on the key, dash lights up, then nothing, no crank/no start. Using a Autel Maxicom scanner I came up with various codes but the two that concerned me was the one in the subject line along with: - 42 EWS (Electronic Vehicle Immobilization System): key 5, incorrect random code. And yes, I have only one key.... I followed the instructions on the webpage: https://www.rpmmotorsport.net/pages/...re-replacement put in the 30A fuse and it cranked. I got an AK-90 and programmed the key, went back and still nothing. So now I am looking at the P/N issue. Also, the Gear Indicator Display indicator works at the stick but does not show up on the instrument panel which I believe points to an issue at the transmission range switch. Since that part is internal to the transmission, all I can do is check the plug/pins and they all look fine. I have access to the www.newtis.info webpage and their wiring diagrams. My question is, is it possible to bypass the P/N detection switch so I can get the car running? Appreciate any help.
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Old 02-22-2021, 11:33 AM
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If all you want to do is spin the starter, you can connect a wire to the + side of the starter solenoid and route the other end to where the jump terminal is in the engine bay. Make sure the trans is in park or Neutral and the handbrakes are engaged. Touch the bare wire from the starter solenoid to the jump terminal and the starter should engage. If you have the key in the run position, the engine may start up.
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Old 02-22-2021, 11:43 AM
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The starter spun when I bypassed the EWS with the 30A fuse, my concern is how I can bypass the P/N indicator switch so I can start the car. Also, nice list of cars you have had. Got to post some myself!
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Old 02-22-2021, 12:02 PM
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If it was working before then you should go over what you did and you will probably find the problem. Maybe you have a wire pinched or not connected somewhere. If you have a look at a wiring diagram you might be able to better find out what the problem actually is
and how the P/N switch works. Also it might be better to get a BMW specific scanner and concentrate on the EWS code instead of trying to by-pass things to get the engine to start.
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Old 02-22-2021, 12:06 PM
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The TCM/EGS is looking for the correct pinout of the selector switch it's not binary it's a 4 bit BCD encoding. I think the pins are calked L0 L1 L2 L3

If I have time I'll find out what code is P and N for you. You would have to dig out what pins those are on the TCM and short those out (and confirm the others are not).

You would want to Ω out the pins at the connector in the ebox to determine if the transmission is doing its job but there's a problem on the engine side.

You can open up the TCM and look for corrosion (which I did when having similar problem). I think that I had to drill out rivets but was able to replace with screws.
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Old 02-22-2021, 12:08 PM
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PS: p/n reads as part number so I was confused at first. PRNDL (I know L no longer applies) is the typical way to describe the selector.
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Old 02-22-2021, 01:11 PM
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When I pulled the motor/tranny, I disconnected the connectors to the DME/TCM and I didn't notice any water damage to the components, not sure what it looks like inside. I did notice when I connected up the main trans connector the plastic sleeve was pushed in nearly flush with the tranny and I had to use needle nose pliers to pull it back out and connect it. Not sure if that may be the cause of the issue. Somewhere in my bookmarks I have the layout for the selector switch. Will start there and see what happens.
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Old 02-22-2021, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
If it was working before then you should go over what you did and you will probably find the problem. Maybe you have a wire pinched or not connected somewhere. If you have a look at a wiring diagram you might be able to better find out what the problem actually is
and how the P/N switch works. Also it might be better to get a BMW specific scanner and concentrate on the EWS code instead of trying to by-pass things to get the engine to start.
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Old 02-22-2021, 05:14 PM
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The connector is similar to bayonet so it should pull tight but if the inner part is too far inisde you may not be getting connections. That alone will cause the exact symptoms your describe.
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Old 02-22-2021, 07:01 PM
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just confirming that you simply kept the orig car's DME, EWS, Keys all together and in car.

I assume you did, but we see all kinds of folk trying to install the donor engine's DME, EWS & keys

Also just an ask, did you pull engine and tranny out the bottom, front or top?..Did you have a lift?

I may be pulling a 3.0 out the bottom of an E53 soon.
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