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#1
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Help with: Starter motor blocked due to P/N - Yes
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#2
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If all you want to do is spin the starter, you can connect a wire to the + side of the starter solenoid and route the other end to where the jump terminal is in the engine bay. Make sure the trans is in park or Neutral and the handbrakes are engaged. Touch the bare wire from the starter solenoid to the jump terminal and the starter should engage. If you have the key in the run position, the engine may start up.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#3
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The starter spun when I bypassed the EWS with the 30A fuse, my concern is how I can bypass the P/N indicator switch so I can start the car. Also, nice list of cars you have had. Got to post some myself!
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#4
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If it was working before then you should go over what you did and you will probably find the problem. Maybe you have a wire pinched or not connected somewhere. If you have a look at a wiring diagram you might be able to better find out what the problem actually is
and how the P/N switch works. Also it might be better to get a BMW specific scanner and concentrate on the EWS code instead of trying to by-pass things to get the engine to start.
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1988 325is (purchased new) sold 2004 X5 3.0 2005 X3 2.5 2008 X5 3.0 (new to me) |
#5
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The TCM/EGS is looking for the correct pinout of the selector switch it's not binary it's a 4 bit BCD encoding. I think the pins are calked L0 L1 L2 L3
If I have time I'll find out what code is P and N for you. You would have to dig out what pins those are on the TCM and short those out (and confirm the others are not). You would want to Ω out the pins at the connector in the ebox to determine if the transmission is doing its job but there's a problem on the engine side. You can open up the TCM and look for corrosion (which I did when having similar problem). I think that I had to drill out rivets but was able to replace with screws.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#6
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PS: p/n reads as part number so I was confused at first. PRNDL (I know L no longer applies) is the typical way to describe the selector.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#7
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When I pulled the motor/tranny, I disconnected the connectors to the DME/TCM and I didn't notice any water damage to the components, not sure what it looks like inside. I did notice when I connected up the main trans connector the plastic sleeve was pushed in nearly flush with the tranny and I had to use needle nose pliers to pull it back out and connect it. Not sure if that may be the cause of the issue. Somewhere in my bookmarks I have the layout for the selector switch. Will start there and see what happens.
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#8
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Quote:
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X5 4.6 2002 Black Sap, Black interior. 2013 X5M Melbourne Red, Bamboo interior Dallas |
#9
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The connector is similar to bayonet so it should pull tight but if the inner part is too far inisde you may not be getting connections. That alone will cause the exact symptoms your describe.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#10
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just confirming that you simply kept the orig car's DME, EWS, Keys all together and in car.
I assume you did, but we see all kinds of folk trying to install the donor engine's DME, EWS & keys Also just an ask, did you pull engine and tranny out the bottom, front or top?..Did you have a lift? I may be pulling a 3.0 out the bottom of an E53 soon. |
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