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  #61  
Old 06-28-2021, 12:44 PM
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What a ridiculous thread!
How is this 7 or 10 amp draw even being measured? If the OP knows enough to measure the draw properly then it doesn't fit with the questions that he is asking. I he's using a clamp type meter that might be a big part of the problem. Maybe stick to the alternator light issue first.
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  #62  
Old 06-28-2021, 12:49 PM
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That is a very good point about how are you measuring the current normally the battery cable is disconnected ammeter is put in series or an inductive clamp is used.
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  #63  
Old 06-28-2021, 08:59 PM
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Ok all, thanks for all the help! When I pulled the b+ cable off I got a 5 amp drop which brought me down to normal. So the picture show is the b+ wire right So I am guessing that the alternator is fried? And I am sure you all know the next question, is there a thread out there with the easiest way to replace the alternator? I watched a couple of videos seems like a pain but I hope this solves most the TCC problem, fingers crossed. Anyway thank you all so much and I will have plenty more noob questions for you all, hopefully some of you stay with me. Gonna change the alternator this weekend, stay tuned.
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  #64  
Old 06-28-2021, 10:17 PM
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Both the alternator and the starter are on that circuit so it could be either but I can’t figure out a way it would realistically be the starter.

I would have an alternator candy and possibly even a starter handy and then start taking it down but disconnect the cable between the starter and the alternator to determine which one of the devices is shorted. You can turn
Return the part that's not needed. If your parts store house boss and his conveniently close then you can just start the repair first determine what you need and go by that part.
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  #65  
Old 07-26-2021, 02:33 PM
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Done.

Well guys I know its been a long time, but it seems to take newbies 10-20 times longer to fix things. All my problems and error codes were the cause of the alternator. The battery drain and the limp mode are cured. Why did it take so long? Well when you put a new alternator in its a good idea to put the little rubber gasket in around it as you guessed it, it will leak. Also no need to crank on those alternator bolts as yes they snap pretty easy (Twice). The service engine light is on but I think I need to clear the error codes as it runs great.

I say that, yesterday I put it all back together after a few test drives and as I was loading it up to go to the self car wash the dam thing would not turn over! I started to cry!!! The weird thing about it not turning over, when I turn the key to the start position (3rd) and it doesn't turn over I bring the key back to the 2nd position the car still is trying to turn over (acting like the key is in the 3rd position)
After I wiped away the tears I went to bed debating on parting the thing out.

So today I woke up, check all the fuses, nothing. Then I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key, nothing. Then just for giggles I tried to turn it on, and poof she fired right up.
Needless to say I am selling it tomorrow as I have a buyer but is it the fuel pump or fuel filter or some other phantom problem?
I just have my fingers crossed it starts tomorrow and makes the 20 minute drive to this guys house I am selling it to
So now the search for my next X5 begins, I think I want the v-6 instead of the 8 as parts seemed to be more readly avaliable for the 6.
Anyway, thank all of you for the advice and tips on helping me with this I could not have done it with out you all! Thanks and I am sure I will be back sooner then later. Peace
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  #66  
Old 07-26-2021, 02:53 PM
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Good luck. When I started to look for an X5, 3.0i was my only choice. Even with V8s locally being priced about the same. Find a good survivor and fix it up!
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  #67  
Old 07-26-2021, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5chemist View Post
Good luck. When I started to look for an X5, 3.0i was my only choice. Even with V8s locally being priced about the same. Find a good survivor and fix it up!
+1 on that. The M54 3.0 is pretty much bullet proof when properly maintained. I have 261,000 miles on mine. The V-8's have too many issues for me.
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  #68  
Old 07-26-2021, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fifty150hs View Post
+1 on that. The M54 3.0 is pretty much bullet proof when properly maintained. I have 261,000 miles on mine. The V-8's have too many issues for me.
Liked a post
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  #69  
Old 07-26-2021, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ftf19 View Post
... I think I want the v-6 instead of the 8 as parts seemed to be more readly avaliable for the 6. ...
There is no V6 - only a couple of I6 (inline six cylinder) models, but anywho....

The start issue sounds like the ignition switch (electrical section) is failing. Can't recall if this was discussed in this thread before (TLDR) but if it continues to play up, it's a simple swap.
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  #70  
Old 07-27-2021, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ftf19 View Post
Well when you put a new alternator in its a good idea to put the little rubber gasket in around it as you guessed it, it will leak.
what am I missing here...?
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