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#21
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2) All season tire development has moved a *lot* from the state of the art in 2009. (Or the state of the art in ~2004.) 3) Frankly, I don't think that studless winter tire technology has advanced nearly as much as A/S technology has in the limited number of really good A/S tires that are out there. My gold standard for all seasons is the Continental DWS line, as well as the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S line. They are *nothing* like the shitty touring tires that most people define A/S tires by. Are there other equivalent tires? Maybe a few. Not many, though. These tires are proof that A/S tires can be usable in the snow, good in the wet, and good in the dry.
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2011 M3 2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison 2004 X5 3.0i 6MT 1995 M3 S50B32 1990 325is 1989 M3 S54B32 Hers: 1989 325iX 1996 911 Turbo
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#22
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Also, I think that it's worth categorizing "performance snows" separately from serious snows. There is absolutely no comparison between the snow traction offered by the Wintersport 3D and, say, the similar vintage Graspic DS-3.
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2011 M3 2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison 2004 X5 3.0i 6MT 1995 M3 S50B32 1990 325is 1989 M3 S54B32 Hers: 1989 325iX 1996 911 Turbo
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#23
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If one is North of the Mason Dixon line, with several months of snow and ice, snow tires are likely worth the expense. If you are South of the line, in Texas for instance, they would be useful about 1 week a year. The safest tires for Texas are tires that won't leave home until that week is over. I don't go out because of other drivers and most importantly because the roads are treated with sand and a salt slurry in DFW area.
Much of getting around 'safely' in the winter regardless of ones location has to do with driving style and ability. In most circumstances slowing down, planning to stop earlier, slow acceleration and backing off more car lengths than usual is enough. In all the controlled tests I have read winter tires are best for snow and ice and in some circumstances wet roads. The more severe the weather the greater the benefit. All weather tires are a compromise for both summer winter driving. However, I see no value or benefit of running summer or winter tires on an X5 in Texas. An X5 is a good handling SAV but is not a sports car. I can scare myself enough on all season tires in the summer and having the ability to go faster around curves with an X5 would only make a danger to myself and others. Here is one controlled test on ice: https://www.motortrend.com/features/...ires-worth-it/ Note that even controlled data varies by vehicle. Even sticking to only X5s, which is the best thing to do here, engine and electronics associated with handling, acceleration and stopping by year will vary.
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Dallas Last edited by bcredliner; 11-29-2021 at 05:11 PM. |
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#24
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Buying tire based on.....
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'06 X5 3.0i - bought @143,123 miles (12/26/20) |
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#25
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I've never seen a test on oily or wet leaves. That's where my winter tires have saved my bacon.
Absolutely can't use year 'round below about 43°
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#26
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Why not?
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Dallas |
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#27
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Hell 43 degrees is a bizarre temperature threshold. That's roughly where aggressive summer tires start getting sketchy.
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2011 M3 2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison 2004 X5 3.0i 6MT 1995 M3 S50B32 1990 325is 1989 M3 S54B32 Hers: 1989 325iX 1996 911 Turbo
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#28
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Why not use year 'round below 43° latitude or why not a test on oily surface?
First one is the rubber gets super soft above 50°F so they will shred and three tread blocks will turn "squishy" and you lose overall control. Second one, I would love to see a test of summer, winter, "all" season on realistic copy of oily city streets. For those skeptics out there, find a very high traffic feeder street like what goes to a high density neighborhood and when it's safe with no cars around, panic stop from 35-40 mph. On dry ground it will take substantial pedal effort to get abs too kick on. With summer tires on oily surface it will take HALF the effort to skid the tires. With my studdless tires it takes 80-90% of the dry road pedal effort to engage abs. Enough that it's extremely rare even when the road is wet to engage ABS on a panic stop. It costs more to maintain two sets of tires than one set of winters including the faster summer wear as long as the similar conditions are met as described for my case. When ABS kicks on it greatly increases stopping distance. I first discovered this in my Z28; at least 30% longer stopping distance when on slippery surface and all season tires. (never had snow tires on that car and summer tires; pointless in snow; couldn't drive over a 1" bump of snow, not an exaggeration) When the road is wet, I can just barely get abs to kick on if the roads are clean, but at perhaps 50% brake pressure, no problem on oily+wet to get abs to kick on even with studdless tires. I have wife's e70 today with the "all seasons". I will see if I can get a g-force reading on a couple example streets where I can recreate the situation once I get the new tires on. I would love to show objectively what I've been describing. I'm acutely aware of the difference in grip largely in part due to the change in grip of the same model tire at end of life. When the tread is almost gone the sp winter sport turn into all season tires automatically as the sipes aren't the full depth of the tread blocks. They get slippery on wet just like all season tires. Exchanging for new I get the amazing grip back. I drive more at 60° and below than above, that is a key to my decision to run on winters only.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#29
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43° latitude.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#30
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2011 M3 2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison 2004 X5 3.0i 6MT 1995 M3 S50B32 1990 325is 1989 M3 S54B32 Hers: 1989 325iX 1996 911 Turbo
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