Aussie E53 4x4 and Brake??? warning light

[Spartan]

"The needle will point to noon at a temp too low to achieve closed loop. I drove for months without closed loop until fall came and I couldn't get cabin heat."


Hmm, I can relate to that, I get 1/4 on cool days and half on warm to hot days. It does have a pre-heater,... a bit of a laugh in Australia and I do not think it has ever been used! , but I do get cabin warmth at half temp which it will get too even on cold days. I guess that is the benefit of the diesel, they will get hot, just how hot is the worry.


I guess I will do some searching for this elusive guage fix, but there are other ways, I have an Android HU and I can plug a OBD II in and get info from that on realtime temps including oil and trans.

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by Spartan

...I guess I will do some searching for this elusive guage fix, but there are other ways, I have an Android HU and I can plug a OBD II in and get info from that on realtime temps including oil and trans.

According to several people on this forum, you should have possibly the easiest way to workaround the temp gauge's inaccuracies, by just using hidden OBC data via your Android H/U. But, without that type of device, I'm stuck in my quest https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...le-gauges.html to see my desired parameters on a gauge or display, a search prolonged due to several delays:

• 1) a water-soaked floor (fixed...sealed the sunroof and windshield),
• 2) recurrent P0171 & P0174 codes (possibly? fixed, by upgrading and resealing the DISA valve), and
• 3) now trying to solve a new code's appearance https://xoutpost.com/1214363-post5.html (P0365, by using Foxwell freeze frame data, and live data on Torque Pro)

.

I don't have the computer skills, nor equipment to reprogram the temperature gauge on the X5, and don't have an Android H/U to access the OBC, yet, so I'm making do with the three android apps I have (four now, as I've just loaded Deep OBD on my devices, but not tried).

I've tested with a USB K-line adapter and two different dongles (OBDLink LX and BAFX), but so far my favorite is the Torque Pro screen shown here

with a screenshot showing the coolant temp (a must have), and fuel trims (looking for the codes mentioned above). I haven't tried the K-line adapter/Bimmertool app combo with the latest code, nor the Deep OBD app at all (it should work, hooked-up via the K-line adapter). Deep OBD promises to access data via K-line, so I'll soon try it. Whenever I get the Resler I-bus adapter, the I-bus app, and tap into the I-bus wire in the dash, then I might have one or more better solutions to my quest.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by Spartan

I guess I will do some searching for this elusive guage fix, but there are other ways, I have an Android HU and I can plug a OBD II in and get info from that on realtime temps including oil and trans.

This is the writeup I did for the temp gauge modification in a high cluster. I have done this mod to both my E53 and my E46. This definitely helped me when my water pump impeller broke some of the vanes off. I could watch the gauge rising when it got above my 85C-95C buffer.

https://xoutpost.com/1121333-post23.html

[Spartan]

Originally Posted by wpoll

I guess it's possible that either the transfer case actuator connector or transmission connector now has water in it. Do you still have the full transmission cover in place (plastic under-shield)?

In answer to this question mate, there is no cover except the one under the engine sump. So my water washing could have got into anything. I did tke out and change the actuator gear today. A simple enough job... looks like it was done before but they used the same old part and it wasn't chewed out as much as flattened into a hard surface with no gears in one area.
Also, I really wasn't happy with the roughness of the bearings in the actuator motor, but sweet FA I could do with the rear one. I used some lithium grease down to it and tried on the top one as well, marginally better, but I think a rebuild or replacement is on the cards. Some clown had zip tied the wires at 200' angle from that connector which could also cause wire break, strain or any other fault. I have run it much straighter out from there now. I have six new glow plugs on the way as there was an old fault about them in the diagnostic reading, but nothing about the controller module.
I think 'andrewwynn" mentioned cam sensors, so I am looking into that area as well as crankshaft sensor.



What really cracks me up, doing all this and buying new parts has not even come close to the expense of maintaining the Australian Ford Territory. I do get a bit of help as my uncle repairs Euro cars, but only on the parts he has in stock. He also lives 400Km away so it is a weekend trip. I haven't used that avenue yet, I have been happy with the places he has pointed me too for my parts.


Oh well, tomorrow will be a test to see if cleaning sockets and plugs, as well as replacing the gear is an improvement. Le you know what happens.

[Spartan]

Originally Posted by Overboost

This is the writeup I did for the temp gauge modification in a high cluster. I have done this mod to both my E53 and my E46. This definitely helped me when my water pump impeller broke some of the vanes off. I could watch the gauge rising when it got above my 85C-95C buffer.

https://xoutpost.com/1121333-post23.html

Thank very much good sir. I shall peruse and try to improve the factory fittings.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Spartan

In answer to this question mate, there is no cover except the one under the engine sump. So my water washing could have got into anything. ...

Sounds like a PO has removed it and tossed it - it would have had the cover from the factory (it's a diesel thing....). So yeah, water ingress is a thing then...

Originally Posted by Spartan

... I have six new glow plugs on the way as there was an old fault about them in the diagnostic reading, but nothing about the controller module. ...

The controller isn't "smart" enough to generate and store codes, although it does the diagnostics on the glow-plugs, the status is passed to the DDE where glow-plugs faults are logged. Not controller faults are ever logged, since a controller fault shows up as a glow-plug fault. It quite possible that you will still have glow-plug errors after replacing them all, since glow-plug faults can be in the controller itself.

Tip: The bonding wires in the controllers fail, causing a glow-plug (or mulitple faults) fault to be logged...



https://vrcustoms.wordpress.com/2015...ow-plug-relay/

[Spartan]

Well, the car ran ok for quite a few kilometers, then a hiccup then nothing until I arrived at my destination. Likewise on the journey home, about 70km or 45 miles if you prefer.

An hour or so later, I needed to go down to the supermarket and did not make it 30 meters before a complete shutdown stall with the same warning lights and to make it worse I was halfway around a roundabout FFS I got it started easily enough and exited the roundabout, another 30 meters, and another stall, engine out. Then it was apply the same ol trick of keeping RPM above 1500 and I could keep going, brains should have said go home and get the other car, but stupidity perseveres and no car is going to dictate to me, right
Later, I did something I rarely ever do, I went on FB and initially I was looking for people wrecking X5's but found that I had somehow joined a couple of owner groups. I posted my issues there and had a dozen replies in just over an hour. Seems the fault was common here in Australia and New Zealand.
Glow plugs are a good start, but the order of checking they offered was an additive to the fuel first, if the car responded to this, then injectors were in need of a service (Lucas upper cylinder lube and injector cleaner) but use the whole bottle first. The one bottle treat 100 gallons . but it works! Next is fuel filter, which has probably never been done. Glow Plugs and control module then injector service dependent on how the engine is running by now.

I still get the two warning lights come up at random times but they do not seem to affect the cars running. They also leave no fault code and are gone on the next restart. Image showing lights.


Edit; I did give the car a couple of hard accelerations since adding this Lucas stuff and all I can say is TF there was nobody on the road behind me. Rolling Coal would be an understatement for a BMW but it has now since eased of to a light puff of grey at the acceleration point.

[andrewwynn]

Have you checked the brake fluid level? If it's close to the edge you will get intermittent brake light.

[Spartan]

Hey thanks for the heads up, I will check to be sure. The book does say if the level is low this may come on...


The yellow light there is actually DBC "Dynamic Brake Control" warning, It is surrounded with similar shaped lights on either side for brakes, but this one seems to be affected by any or all symptoms... and of course the 4x4 when on permanently and not flashing indicates the DSC "Dynamic Stability Control". This you are supposed to be able to turn on and off at the switch, although I have never been successful on any of my cars at turning it off.

After reading the book, a lot of diagnostics online that other people have experienced with some similar issues, the only consistent I have is non consistency.

I never have the EML light or residual codes, No DDE errors at any time nor light to register any problems, no Engine light and no AT light or codes. Everyone that has experienced their engine stall has codes that indicate one of these problems.

So, foolishly, the one thing I failed to look at was the brake fluid it was a case of car drives and car stops, Just came out from a full service with receipts etc if I had problems (4 months ago), so I was dumbassed enough to trust the workshop and the guy who sold me the car has all his vehicles serviced there. Looks like tomorrow be a working on car day anyway.


Thanks for persevering with Ideas AW

[Spartan]

Sorry for the delay in writing this report back. No more fault codes had been logged even though the lights, coughing and farting while trying o drive was being attempted occurred randomly.

I have been using Lucas Upper cylinder lubricant and diesel injector cleaner, which seems to make it run longer for a each period of time. This got me to thinking about similar problems I had on my classic bikes with Amal carburettors. No filters used and the crap would get into the carby and block a jet or port. This was also suggested by a X5 4.8 owner here to check as well. The Fuel Filter. There was some issue with mine as the V.I.N. explains a different engine and filter to what is actually fitted, suggesting I had the E70 engine and drive train. So, filter arrives, car up and covers off...wrong filter. They exchanged it without any freight cost and refunded the difference. The fuel that came out of the old filter was charcoal grey and full of little bits of black grit type of substance. With the new filter, I have done a thousand Km without any problemswith speeds from 40km/h to 110km/h I'm still using the Lucas at each tank of fuel and the car is just getting stronger and stronger.


Thank you all for your help, I have checked each of the suggested areas and it has given me leads to other minor issues before they become big ones.
Jeff