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#31
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which parts to trust?
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Of course, my go-to replacement parts for my General Motors vehicles remains A/C Delco and Delphi brands (from wherever?), for spark plugs Bosch & NGK, O2 sensors Bosch-only, and for filters A/C Delco, Wix, Bosch, and Fram (in that order, with Fram's best rated dead last). OIl and additives were always Castrol, Valvoline, Royal Purple (race car), and Mobil 1 (all depending on age & application), with Lucas for additives. But, for my X5, I'm trying to get OEM quality parts, not necessarily with BMW stamped on them, but I'm willing to search for "good enough" parts that will not cost as much, but are made under ostensibly German standards of quality, for the most part. I replaced the exhaust cam sensor with a VEMO part, which I researched about first. It's made in Germany, too, which was reassuring. Works fine. If I can follow that example, then other "German"-designed, made, production overseen by, etc. parts should be worth a shot, while seeing who's who out there for aftermarket "German" parts these days. So, though I put a Chinese plastic intake bellows on the X5, all more critical parts will be at least German brands, or known to be reputable associates of theirs (i.e. Castrol 5w-40 oil, LL-1, Euro-formula, and a Bosch Premium oil filter bought specifically for my next oil change on the X5...I've always trusted and used those brands). In the possible case of a MAF replacement, though leaning towards Siemens-VDO, isn't HELLA a trusted German brand (for less than half the VDO price, why not?)?. I'll have to rely on this forum for brands like Hengst, Meyle, Mahle, Lemfoder, etc., that are new to me (I haven't owned European cars since '77).
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'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01) topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau, my new favorite project car Plus four GM vehicles: 2 Daily Drivers, and 2 modified trucks (for hauling & camping): 3 Chevys: '09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L, '08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L, '04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab + a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab - and 20 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 58 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project") |
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#32
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an example of making-do with "good enough" parts & tools
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I searched on Zoro, Grainger, Northern, Snap-On, Mac, Proto (sites where I bought tools for my jobs), and Jegs, Summit Racing, and Speedway Motors (sites where I bought tools for my shadetree mechanic & drag racing hobbies), as well as the usual Autozone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, Home Depot, Lowe's, and even Walmart sites (tools for any and all the above uses); I looked at ECS Tuning & FCPEuro, too, for BMW-specific tool kits, as well. But ended up back at Amazon, where I find some good stuff occasionally, and get my stuff delivered! The fuel tester kit just arrived, and I won't try it 'til tomorrow, but it looks like OK quality to me (good threads, O-rings, hoses). ![]() I also bought some premium Teflon tape, just in case the fittings aren't that tight, and/or I get leaks from the gauge like andrewwynn did with his. For $42 (for both kit and tape, free shipping), it might ? beat the $100-600 kits I would've bought, back when I was still working & racing. We'll see.
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'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01) topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau, my new favorite project car Plus four GM vehicles: 2 Daily Drivers, and 2 modified trucks (for hauling & camping): 3 Chevys: '09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L, '08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L, '04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab + a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab - and 20 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 58 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project") |
#33
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Scooby-Doo asks which listed fitting fits?
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'06 X5 3.0i - bought @143,123 miles (12/26/20) |
#34
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as usual, it's always something
Scooby-Doo ??? You're telling me your age; I was already 19 when that premiered on TV in 1969, and of course, I never watched it.
As for which fitting works, actually, none do. Fitting #8 (m8x1) ![]() screws halfway down on the fuel rail Schrader, but doesn't give me any confidence on the thread match. I'll have to use a second fitting to attach it to the gauge's hose. ![]() The premium Teflon tape would probably seal it, but there's another problem...the fitting doesn't have a "valve depressor" inside. ![]() If I remove the valve core from the Schrader, and join two fittings (plus Teflon tape), I can probably test the pressure. I should probably wear a raincoat, and have my wife stand-by with a fire extinguisher, because I can envision fuel going everywhere. Why can't I find any mention on the internet of the thread size used on the early E53 (M54) fuel rail? it's like a BMW state secret or something. What did other people use? I can't imagine that the Harbor Freight, and other cheap testing kits have a "BMW-approved" fitting, while my kit doesn't (they're all probably made in the same factory in China). Meanwhile, in related news: I went ahead (while I had the covers off) and sprayed 3 more cans of carb cleaner, and found zero leaks, again, paying particular attention to the rubber boots, vacuum junctions, injector O-rings, vacuum manifold O-rings, and any BMW plastic connectors. I also waited until everything was warmed up before I observed the MAF readings from idle (700 rpm) to 1k, 1.5k, 2k, and 2.5k. They were consistent with or better than on my previous graph, so I didn't save it. I also did a couple of WOT pulls, that brought the highest readings, which were off-scale on my small screen. I also did repeated "tap" tests (suggested by EODguy) on the MAF, from finger taps to semi-hard raps with a big screwdriver...the MAF never acknowledged it. I don't think it's the MAF. Or leaks, or O2 sensors, or anyting underhood. Perhaps, I need to drop the shield over the FPR assembly, and see if there's a vacuum leak there.
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'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01) topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau, my new favorite project car Plus four GM vehicles: 2 Daily Drivers, and 2 modified trucks (for hauling & camping): 3 Chevys: '09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L, '08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L, '04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab + a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab - and 20 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 58 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project") |
#35
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reset fuel trims; lasted about 60 miles or about an hour
You can relieve the fuel rail pressure by unplugging the fuel pump fuse and running the car into it stalls if you need to connect with the Schrader valve stem removed.
On my e53, I was able to use valve caps from the wheels I've assumed the threads were the same and my kit came with a fitting that worked
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#36
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I think the answer is M8-1 or 5/16"-24 thread (universal)
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I found it, and a reference to FCPEuro's fuel tester description for the CTA fuel pressure tester, which says it will work on BMWs "universally", not listing specific models, and the size of the mystery adapter as 5/16"x.308 (or slightly tighter than 5/16"-24). ![]()
__________________
'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01) topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau, my new favorite project car Plus four GM vehicles: 2 Daily Drivers, and 2 modified trucks (for hauling & camping): 3 Chevys: '09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L, '08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L, '04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab + a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab - and 20 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 58 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project") |
#37
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Do the early E53's have a different schrader valve ? As I noted earlier, I have Pittsburgh model 62623 ...Harbor Freight $ 14.97
It works fine on all my '03 - '06 BMW's |
#38
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Interesting. I have the same kit. Now I'm curious. Unfortunately, mine is out of state for suspension and front end work. I'll have to check and test mine. With 154k miles, new pumps are on my maintenance list.
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'06 X5 3.0i - bought @143,123 miles (12/26/20) |
#39
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hesitant to possibly damage the Schrader, or set the X5 on fire
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I found out that the US-standard Schrader valve (external) thread size is 5/16"-32 NEF, which uses an 8V1-32 tap (which, of course, I've never heard of nor have in my tap & die set). But, the Schrader valve on the fuel rail may or not be not US-standard, of course. I haven't broken-out my tap & die set, yet, but grabbed my Slime 2410 Tire Repair Tackle Set (14-Piece Set) ![]() from my pickup, and used the clean-up tool to chase internal threads on the M8 adapter #8 on the list/photo I posted, and used a TR416 tire valve stem (I have as a spare) as an in-house sustitute for the Schrader on the X5. I also tried screwing the #13 M8 adapter into the spare Schrader, after I removed its' core. ![]() In each case, I could only get 2-3 threads to match-up (just like yesterday, when I tried adapter #8 on the X5). I hope that'll be enough to contain 50 psi fuel pressure, if I try either adapter on the BMW. Also, I compared the "feel" of running the Slime tool over the external threads of the fuel pressure Schrader, compared to the "feel" of doing the same on the valve on the front, left tire...it felt about the same, with maybe a little more play on the fuel Schrader. I'm also unsure whether I really want to remove the valve core (after removing the pump fuse, and running 'til dry). If I mess up the internal threads, using adapter #13, the core might not seal again (but, if I use the external adapter #8, then that shouldn't be a problem), and I wonder if running the fuel line dry will cause any loss-of-prime problem in the tank? P.S. to X5chemist and Effduration: does your kit/fitting/gauge actually state the size and threading of the adapter? that fits and works perfectly? “Inquiring minds want to know” as they say.
__________________
'01 BMW X5-E53 3.0i (born 7/13/01) topas-blau, Leder-Montana grau, my new favorite project car Plus four GM vehicles: 2 Daily Drivers, and 2 modified trucks (for hauling & camping): 3 Chevys: '09 HHR Panel LS 2.2L, '08 Cobalt Coupe LS 2.2L, '04 Silverado 2500HD WT Reg. Cab + a '98 GMC Sierra 1500 Ext. Cab - and 20 others, now gone, that I've had over the last 58 years (not counting the stillborn "1965 ChevyII altered/gasser project") |
#40
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reset fuel trims; lasted about 60 miles or about an hour
![]() It looks like the black seal is incompatible with fitting this on. Pull that out and see if it threads on. Bonus it will release the fuel pressure if the bar works to press the Schrader button. (Have shop towel handy not a lot comes out if the engine is stopped). If that works, Teflon to seal at the threads vs. the edge of the valve.
__________________
2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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