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  #1  
Old 07-05-2023, 01:07 PM
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Replacement sound system / Nav Screen in 2023

Hi,

replacing the drowned amp in the boot has left he left hand front speaker not working and I'm getting rapidly bored with trying to get a poor sound quality outdated system working again.

Tried searching but can't seem to find an answer to what's a good replacement these days. I don't have DSP but do have the widescreen nav screen. Ideally I'd like to keep the time/ mpg etc controls that you get on the screen too.

Be nice to have a solution that doesn't require the amplifier in the boot but one that doesn't require hacking apart the OEM loom or running wiring to the boot if I can avoid it.

Any such things exist?

My local car audio place recommended a double DIN unit with an adapter... not sold on the looks of those but if that's the best option then happy to go with it.
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2023, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamza View Post
Hi,

replacing the drowned amp in the boot has left he left hand front speaker not working and I'm getting rapidly bored with trying to get a poor sound quality outdated system working again.

Tried searching but can't seem to find an answer to what's a good replacement these days. I don't have DSP but do have the widescreen nav screen. Ideally I'd like to keep the time/ mpg etc controls that you get on the screen too.

Be nice to have a solution that doesn't require the amplifier in the boot but one that doesn't require hacking apart the OEM loom or running wiring to the boot if I can avoid it.

Any such things exist?

My local car audio place recommended a double DIN unit with an adapter... not sold on the looks of those but if that's the best option then happy to go with it.
Double DIN unit is a horrible idea, given there are so many better options.

Best would be Avant Avin 4 - add the Resler iBus adapter and iBus app and you retain all the BC functions - and WAY more!

Second choice would be one of the better second-tier android units - Seicane, Eonon etc. - also with e iBus stuff.

These WILL require running a loom to the back of the car but it's a single big loom, not a slew of loose wires. You have no other option here, given that you speaker wiring is in the trunk. Unless you replace factory amp with another factory amp and carry on...
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2023, 04:24 PM
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Does the Avin 4 need the original amp and BM54 unit to be working or are they completely bypassed?

The Avin doesn’t look cheap… but a new amp, new bm54 and I’m already looking at around £200 and stuck with old tech.
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Old 07-05-2023, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamza View Post
Does the Avin 4 need the original amp and BM54 unit to be working or are they completely bypassed?

The Avin doesnít look cheapÖ but a new amp, new bm54 and Iím already looking at around £200 and stuck with old tech.
Any Android HU will completely bypass the BM54 and amp - or at least in some configurations. It depends on the exact amp configuration. If the amp that has died is over on the left-side cubby in the trunk (boot! ) then you may have to do some more "creative" wiring to bypass it.

Avin 4 is the "gold standard" but other, cheaper Android HUs are good too.
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Old 07-06-2023, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Any Android HU will completely bypass the BM54 and amp - or at least in some configurations. It depends on the exact amp configuration. If the amp that has died is over on the left-side cubby in the trunk (boot! ) then you may have to do some more "creative" wiring to bypass it.

Avin 4 is the "gold standard" but other, cheaper Android HUs are good too.
Thanks. Iíve been reading up on this option a bit. Seems like for UK dwellers like myself the Dynavin may be a better option as it has slightly better support and doesnít have to be ordered from another continext.

All the Android based units seem to have a bit of a limited life of around 2/3 years and a few minor foibles from what I can gather. They certainly look much more like they belong in the car but Iím not sure if they are the same quality really as a double DIN unit from Sony or AlpineÖ but then those do look quite out of place!

Iíd be tempted to go double DIN except for the fact that I canít find a decent solution to keep the trip computer (and even the PDC it seems??) working with such a unit and thatís a bit of a deal breaker. Not being able to set the time, reset MPG or even see it maybe isnít an option and loss of PDC definitely isnít.
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Old 07-06-2023, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Double DIN unit is a horrible idea, given there are so many better options.

Best would be Avant Avin 4 - add the Resler iBus adapter and iBus app and you retain all the BC functions - and WAY more!

Second choice would be one of the better second-tier android units - Seicane, Eonon etc. - also with e iBus stuff.

These WILL require running a loom to the back of the car but it's a single big loom, not a slew of loose wires. You have no other option here, given that you speaker wiring is in the trunk. Unless you replace factory amp with another factory amp and carry on...
And you can order the AVin with built in DSP.
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Old 07-06-2023, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Fifty150hs View Post
And you can order the AVin with built in DSP.
True - but that is a different "DSP" processor from the DSP amp in the car, so you have two "DSP" processors in that case.
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Old 07-06-2023, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
True - but that is a different "DSP" processor from the DSP amp in the car, so you have two "DSP" processors in that case.
Only if you have DSP in the first place. If you don't, you can add the capability with the Avin.
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  #9  
Old 07-06-2023, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Fifty150hs View Post
Only if you have DSP in the first place. If you don't, you can add the capability with the Avin.
'zactly.
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  #10  
Old 07-06-2023, 08:42 PM
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My experience:

Rip and replace.

I took all the factory stuff out except the speaker wires. Used those to connect to an 8 channel DSP amp and a measly little 500w amp for the sub. The secret is in programming the amp. Set each speaker's distance to the driver's ear. Set electronic crossovers to the limits on what each speaker can actually produce (and still sound good). Then, fill the bottom frequecies with a sub. If you do it well and aren't beholden to ridiculous competition level sound EQ goals, You will be very happy. It's no stoplight stunner. It will *roll* with the windows up at speed. Her little teeny bopper friends like it when she drives the E53 instead of her E82.

Speaking of her E82, I recently replaced the stock speakers with BavSound. The result was underwhelming. This weekend, I replaced her OE 676 HiFi amp with an old school UP7BMW unit. Plug and play except for a mounting harness that wasn't at all what her little 128 needed. But, boy, oh boy. Set the response times and the crossovers and her lil 128 is ready for college in August!

But yes. I will add a sub this Christmas on her lil 128. As good as it sounds. Baby girl's E82 *needs* some depth.
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