Tricky crank no-start problem

[andrewwynn]

The slow 520 is the chassis: e53. Works much much faster on the e70.

I never had a chance to test the 710 on the e53.

[DonaldFoss]

Originally Posted by 80stech

The heater control valves are energized to turn "Off" and the coils are going to get warm so maybe you have the A/C on. Left and right are always as you are sitting in the car btw.

Good to know, thanks.

[DonaldFoss]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The slow 520 is the chassis: e53. Works much much faster on the e70.

I never had a chance to test the 710 on the e53.

I just ordered the 710, thinking future proof. There was an $85 coupon for it on Amazon, made it the same price as a nt624.

[DonaldFoss]

I read about that test as a precursor to ordering they're kit. I haven't pulled the EWS but I'll try this before I take the head off and go down the compression route, and after I see what the nt710 tells me.

[Bdc101]

I have used my NT510 on both my E53 and my new E70 and the E70 is about 5x as fast as the E53 to do anything. It must just be a slower communication rate.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by DonaldFoss

I just ordered the 710, thinking future proof. There was an $85 coupon for it on Amazon, made it the same price as a nt624.

That's great and when I bought mine I got a similar deal. My 710 cost about the same as my 510 did 6 years earlier


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[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Bdc101

I have used my NT510 on both my E53 and my new E70 and the E70 is about 5x as fast as the E53 to do anything. It must just be a slower communication rate.

That's the same thing I noticed and I never pay attention to which mode of communication it locks in with but there are half a dozen and the older tech in e53 is much much slower


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[DonaldFoss]

I have to say I'm pleased with all the nt710 offers, even though the interface takes a little getting used to, and updates took forever. I got the nt710 over the 520 or 624 because of the extra bi-directional things, plus I will probably get an E90 next... after I get an 8HP 1400 installed/working in the E53 after I break this fragile GM 5L40e, which is only rated for a 4,000 lb car anyway. The E53 is over 400 lbs heavier empty! Then I'll see if the trans-diff holds up, etc. This is a project car that I want fully streetable, and ultimately I intend to have a clutched supercharger and 2 turbos on it with the control system I'm building. That's why the H-beam rods, low comp Carillo pistons, high temp rings with plenty of gap, high temp bearings, etc.

Foxwell says my EWS is totally fine. I'm using key #2, and it's enabled and active.

Below are relevant pics from the Foxwell:







Finally, in the link below, there is a short video of the car cranking. I depress the throttle for 2 seconds, release it, and then turn the key. About halfway through, you'll hear the sound change when I depress the throttle again while cranking to ensure the throttle body responds correctly. I didn't see a video embed control and didn't feel like uploading it to YouTube.

Click the sound icon in the upper right of the video to hear it.

https://imgur.com/i9IGw7S

Unless someone has a genius idea that neither I nor any of you have thought of, I think I'm stuck pulling the head off and addressing the compression issue. Some of the valves leak some but I never thought it'd be enough to prevent it from starting. Once I have the head off, I'll re-lap the valves and try to make them waterproof, reinstall them, and try again.

Please, someone, come up with another idea; I didn't really want to take the engine apart again so soon.

I'll be back here in a few weeks and share whatever knowledge I've gained, even if it's only a sore noggin from banging my head against the wall.

The beatings will continue until morale improves...

[andrewwynn]

Pics didn't load but I was able to listen to the video.

What's your fuel pressure look like.

When wife's m54 e53 had a blown o-ring in her FPR I cranked about a dozen times about 8 seconds each before it finale fired up!

Check your fuel pressure at the rail key on no crank then turn off the key and monitor.

It should stay over 35-40 psi for an hour and then have 15-20+ overnight.

If it's zip overnight the fpr o-ring is blown or the check valve in he fuel pump but that I don't think will cause a non start.

Hoping it's the FPR. I did think I heard couple power strokes in that attempted start.






I'd have to look and see if I measured the tiny o-ring that was the trouble maker.

[80stech]

@donaldfoss You need to take a beer break, step back and start over with your trouble shooting. Make sure when you do fuel pressure test that you purge the gauge and rail. Make sure you have GOOD spark, check the voltage with a gap tester if you have one. re-check the compression without adding any more oil. Ignore Andrewwynn's fuel pressure regulator crap.

From listening to the video I would say your valve timing is way off.

Compression test should be 4 strokes and the first 2 really tell the story.