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  #11  
Old 05-20-2024, 07:41 PM
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I gathered it was an add on but I was curious if you put n54/55 in there!


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  #12  
Old 05-20-2024, 07:49 PM
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I don't think it's EWS

Quote:
Originally Posted by X5chemist View Post
EWS delete must be DME deleted too. The module bypass must be in place or the starter wouldn't crank. I know, I did it to mine while chasing down a parasitic draw. The good thing, it was reversible.
What's the difference in compression between cylinders? More than 10% on the next cylinder is not good.
That's what I thought too, the EWS must be ok or it wouldn't crank, fuel pump wouldn't pressurize and no spark and I have all of those.

I added the EWS delete to my nearly virgin bin and flashed it in boot mode, then read it back and verified the settings in the read bin file. EWS delete was there, but no change in behavior.

Couple other weird things. There is a buzzing sound coming from near the intake manifold while the ignition is on/terminal 15, but I can't track it down. No codes thrown. Second is that those 2 cylinders on top the heater hose return on the right of the engine bay are really hot.i pulled out the laser temp gun and got readings close to 160F. I don't know what those do. There's a plug there but I'm not sure where the wire leads.


While cranking I measured 14.6v at the front terminals, so I think I should have plenty of power. Crank speed off 140 should indicate enough battery power too, though I've seen other systems crank no start with low voltage but three cranking sounded fine. Holley EFI comes to mind.
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2003 E53 3.0i, 5L40e (for now)
- self-rebuilt engine, valves, SL oil pump
- ported heads, both sides
- N55 intake manifold, 70 lb injectors
- GTX 2860R-clone 60mm top-mounted turbo
- progressive slip diff
- under chassis cats
- extra sensors wired to Arduino
- 15" touch screen dash-mounted
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  #13  
Old 05-20-2024, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I gathered it was an add on but I was curious if you put n54/55 in there!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I have an intake manifold for an N55 that I built out and adapted for the M54 but took it off as I was diagnosing why it won't start, in case I had the injector angle wrong or something else. I have the injectors up high instead of right at the valve input, and a 45 degree angle instead of the stock 30 degrees. It's irrelevant at the moment though since I tried to make it as stock like as possible to help diagnose things.

The head porting just opens up airflow and shouldn't affect starting, correct? That's something I can't reverse (and I spent 2 weeks doing it)
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Donald Foss
2003 E53 3.0i, 5L40e (for now)
- self-rebuilt engine, valves, SL oil pump
- ported heads, both sides
- N55 intake manifold, 70 lb injectors
- GTX 2860R-clone 60mm top-mounted turbo
- progressive slip diff
- under chassis cats
- extra sensors wired to Arduino
- 15" touch screen dash-mounted
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  #14  
Old 05-20-2024, 08:26 PM
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The buzzing sound is the idle control valve -- it uses a solenoid that it rapidly opens and closes in a PWM kind of control. That's normal from what I can tell.



Head porting shouldn't affect starting. Have you verified there is fuel getting into the cylinder is my question? This all sounds like EWS to me. Did you take a plug out and see if there is fuel on it? You should have a ton of unburned fuel on it if the EWS is not out of sync. I'm not sure if I read correctly whether you had already verified fuel or not.
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  #15  
Old 05-20-2024, 08:26 PM
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On e53 EWS error moronically allows crank I can't remember if it cuts power to spark or injector or both. I think it powers the fuel pump; also moronic.

I think EWS/DME hiccup the cause it'll run with the modified injector locations my opinion
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  #16  
Old 05-20-2024, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdc101 View Post
The buzzing sound is the idle control valve -- it uses a solenoid that it rapidly opens and closes in a PWM kind of control. That's normal from what I can tell.



Head porting shouldn't affect starting. Have you verified there is fuel getting into the cylinder is my question? This all sounds like EWS to me. Did you take a plug out and see if there is fuel on it? You should have a ton of unburned fuel on it if the EWS is not out of sync. I'm not sure if I read correctly whether you had already verified fuel or not.
I've pulled all the plugs, they all smell of gas strongly. I randomly tested 2 plugs for spark, though my dad wants me to test again with my 8/0 jumper cables to ensure there's ground for days.

My wideband O2 says AFR is 7.98 while cranking and 22 while not cranking.

I did the EWS delete from MS4x.net, flashed ands verified the bin file. I don't know how to verify it on the car. It acts the same sob umm hoping I've eliminated EWS. The car isn't even trying to start right now. I would using starter fluid that was a mix of hexane and ether, and my front fuel valve turned off. I can't crank it and spray starter fluid art the same time, plus I'm Leary of that since it caught fire last time after a loud before out the intake.

I'm sure I have a sufficient amount of unburnt fuel in my oil too. It had fresh oil in it but once I get it running I'm going to change it again.
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Donald Foss
2003 E53 3.0i, 5L40e (for now)
- self-rebuilt engine, valves, SL oil pump
- ported heads, both sides
- N55 intake manifold, 70 lb injectors
- GTX 2860R-clone 60mm top-mounted turbo
- progressive slip diff
- under chassis cats
- extra sensors wired to Arduino
- 15" touch screen dash-mounted
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  #17  
Old 05-20-2024, 08:52 PM
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A quarter size puddle of laquer thinner inn the bottom of the intake will usually run a motor for 20-30 seconds as it evaporates. No need to spray.

Check for spark trigger at the 12v connector to the coil.

What are the EWS delete steps and what does the scanner show after?
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  #18  
Old 05-20-2024, 08:57 PM
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The two cylinders on the top of heater hose sound like the heater core control valves left and right. (if by right side of engine bay you meant left (just in front of the USA left hand drive steering wheel)). I suspect that they get "cooled "from the coolant going through sui they are used to temps over 200 but why so hot when not even being used.
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  #19  
Old 05-20-2024, 09:27 PM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
Those EWS codes you have will prevent starting and it sounds like the EWS delete you attempted on the other DME didn't work. If your car has the round port in the engine bay, you need to use the round port adapter or jump two pins and reinstall cap to be able to communicate to non-DME modules and this includes performing the EWS sync process. If yours does not have the round port under hood then you may have a faulty EWS module itself. Either way a proper EWS delete tune should solve it, but there's no reason not to simply get EWS to work since this car was originally ms43.
I hear you and agree, except that I flashed my factory ECU back to virgin+EWS delete+DS2 this afternoon, reinstalled it, and no joy. Everything turns, but no hint of any start.

I also just attached jumper cables directly to the battery negative post and 2 places on the engine, the exhaust manifold and the left ring on the front of the head. Does the same thing.

If I push the gas pedal while cranking it does make a different noise too, so I feel the throttle body is working.

My 2003 doesn't have the round plug as far as I know, plus with the EWS delete I shouldn't need it. Plus, my understanding is that EWS is what sends the second signal to the starter solenoid telling it to engage the flex plate gear. The engine is rotating.

I'm all ears on ideas because I'm all out of them.
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Donald Foss
2003 E53 3.0i, 5L40e (for now)
- self-rebuilt engine, valves, SL oil pump
- ported heads, both sides
- N55 intake manifold, 70 lb injectors
- GTX 2860R-clone 60mm top-mounted turbo
- progressive slip diff
- under chassis cats
- extra sensors wired to Arduino
- 15" touch screen dash-mounted
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  #20  
Old 05-20-2024, 09:43 PM
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Location: Virginia, USA
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Whistle Other codes from code reader

These aren't regular ECU DTC codes, but from my RepairSol2 software plus Bluetooth OBD2 dongle:
EGS: 96, CAN Engine speed to transmission
EWS: same 4
KOMBI:
BF, IKE-EEPROM Error, coding incorrect/incomplete
8D, ATS Signal: Telegram Error or no telegram
F4: No CAN Id
C7: Lever-type sensor 1
D7: Level-type sendor 2
LM: 28, Thermal sensor for oil level defect (I replaced this last year, assuming it's the thing in the bottom of the oil pan)
LWS: (I haven't reset steering angle yet, have subframe on, but no front wheel assembly)
09, No ASC2 Embassy
0B, LWS ID False
05, EEPROM defect
10, Watchdog
MRS: (airbags, I took out a door airbag when replacing the window regulator)
50, Supply voltage
05, Ignition circuit 2k4/Side airbag front left

I don't see where any of these except for EWS have anything to do with starting, but the EWS delete is on the ECU and verified, plus I'm getting fuel and it's cranking. I havent' checked spark in a couple weeks, might do that again for peace of mind.

As I mentioned above, I'm using this RepairSol2 thing that runs from my iPhone or Android and seems decent, it cleared airbag codes before, although it won't right now for some reason, can pump the ABS, does battery registration, etc. and only cost $50. I've looked at the Foxwell 630 for a while but never sprung for it because while slow due to Bluetooth I guess, this seemed to work. Is there a reason to get the Foxwell? Will it tell me more than what I'm seeing here? Is it worth it or is another better? I do have the INPA/INST+ and BMW essential tools, but they seem to only half work when connecting to or reading from the car. It's been sorta nice for technical materials, once you find them but it should be able to diagnose the car too, and while it reads some stuff I end up with communication errors at the end. Same equipment works with every other piece of software I've used from JMGarage to Renlovo to MS43 flasher and RT TunerPro. OK, I don't think I got it reading stats in real time with RomRaider, but I'm pretty sure that was RomRaider and I don't need that with RT TunerPro working great.
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Donald Foss
2003 E53 3.0i, 5L40e (for now)
- self-rebuilt engine, valves, SL oil pump
- ported heads, both sides
- N55 intake manifold, 70 lb injectors
- GTX 2860R-clone 60mm top-mounted turbo
- progressive slip diff
- under chassis cats
- extra sensors wired to Arduino
- 15" touch screen dash-mounted
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