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  #11  
Old 08-31-2024, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by X5chemist View Post




A pressure switch has arrived. I'll take a look at accessing the compressor. If it's going to take time, I might just put it in the garage for more maintenance. I need replaced the valve cover gasket. While it's off, two upper new O2 sensors too. I've thought about doing maintenance on the VANOS system. Either replace it or have it rebuilt. How long do VANOS systems last?



The dryer sock will be replaced. A can of A/C flush will clean the lines and condenser. My big air compressor will flush it and dry it.
Don't forget to put it under vacuum... Don't ask how I know that too...

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  #12  
Old 08-31-2024, 10:24 AM
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I've only paid twice for A/C work. First time, my '91 Dakota compressor failed a few years after arriving in Austin. Second time, I was traveling through South Dakota heading to the Black Hills and Mt Rushmore. The '08 Nitro compressor couldn't handle driving 80 MPH. I was not driving. A dear friend that passed four years ago taught me A/C repair and work. I've done my own ever since. All of them are ice cold. While visiting my folk this week, I did some A/C work too! Farm life starts early!
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Old 09-03-2024, 07:26 AM
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Does anyone have the pressure sensor and drier sock torque specs? FCP parts should all arrive by Saturday. I'll refresh the A/C system next week. It was almost a full year since having do to major failed maintenance. I say that's a "+".
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Old 09-05-2024, 10:21 PM
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Final confirmation. The clutch is toast. A Power Probe IV was used to power the clutch. A new compressor and other parts should arrive tomorrow.
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Old 09-07-2024, 10:32 PM
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Final confirmation. The clutch is toast. A Power Probe IV was used to power the clutch. A new compressor and other parts should arrive tomorrow.
Mostly easy day ahead, unless some screwy bolt issue pops up...

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Old 09-08-2024, 08:36 AM
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Normal maintenance seems to turn into fix something else too! I'm surprised the compressor only uses three mounting bolts. I couldn't see the condenser drier sock cap. Do top brackets cover it? I sure don't want to move the radiator to access the cap. Sucks both condenser lines are at the top. Flushing the condenser won't be easy. Flushing the evaporator and lines seems straight forward. I expect a few hours taking my time to get it all refreshed. I have some cleaner handy to degrease the hood, engine bay and frame. Hope to get it done on Wed.

Searching for info, I find '03+ have variable compressors.
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Old 09-08-2024, 12:08 PM
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Using compressed air to flush is not a good idea because it will likely have a fair bit of moisture in it but if you do use it, or already have, then at least replace the desiccant. It's not entirely obvious but there should be a plastic cap with a sticker to pry off on the very top of the condenser tube and then you have access to the actual cap.
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  #18  
Old 09-08-2024, 01:16 PM
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Work has not been done yet. I just saw an E53 radiator replacement video. The radiator and condenser should move back far enough to reach the drier cap. The shroud and fan will be taken off for degreasing the lower engine area. I'll put it on vacuum for at least an hour.

Seems PAG46 oil is needed. I use oil to lube o-rings.

Looks like a large bit torx bit removes the cap.
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Old 09-08-2024, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
Using compressed air to flush is not a good idea because it will likely have a fair bit of moisture in it but if you do use it, or already have, then at least replace the desiccant. It's not entirely obvious but there should be a plastic cap with a sticker to pry off on the very top of the condenser tube and then you have access to the actual cap.

What about diving air? I think also he's in Texas in basically end of summer can pick a hot dry day.
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Old 09-09-2024, 08:42 AM
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How much oil has anyone drained from a compressor?
A search indicates 110 cc (3.72 fluid ounces) is needed for operation.
Is the system max amount like 6.XX ounces?
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