Sluggish acceleration issues

[amebb]

Hi
I have an issue on my E53 X5 (2004) Diesel - where my acceleration is not as rapid as it used to be.


I find that i am needing to push the accelerator pedal down further and for longer for any thing amazing to happen.


So, this is what i have done in the last 30 days to the car:-


Changed front diff oil
Changed rear dif oil
Changed the Transfer case oil
Also changed Transfer case motor
Changed streering wheel angle sensor too
Front wheel drive shafts have also been replaced
Front wheel bearings replaced


Previously, I had the 4x4 light on all the time as well as two more lights for the transfer case motor.
There are no lights on the dashboard now. The 4x4 light comes on when i start the car and then goes off when i turn the steering wheel. Normally this light does not last for more than 4sec.


Before i did all the work on the car, the acceleration was nimble and fast. Now the car does not have that instant boost that it had once.


I have had a look at the fault codes and this is what i have:


Power System Issues

1)DDE - Exhaust Gas Recirculation
2)DDE - Charge Presure Control

Safety and Security system

1)DSC - Steering-Angle Sensor supply
2)LWS - Supply (Terminal 30)
3)PDC - Converter, Rear Left

Vehicle Body Ssytem

1)SHD - A088 Control System
2)IKE - Electronic Braking Force Distrubution
3)RLS - Optical Initilasation


Can anyone help me with this issue?


Thank you

[andrewwynn]

You left out the most important detail: which engine but you left a clue that it's diesel.

The diesel x5 will have symptom you describe if the vaccum reservoir is having a problem.

Somebody recently had similar issue and it wasn't that so search xoutpost for similar symptoms and see if you can find it it was this year I'm pretty sure


–awr–

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[amebb]

Sorry... it is a Diesel, you are correct.

[workingonit]

I'm not being critical, but if I was still able to do such extensive repairs & maintenance in a 30-day period, I would've done the work in 5 stages:

• 1) fluid changes: (followed by test run and fluid checks after the test run)
  • a) Changed front diff oil
    b) Changed rear dif oil
    c) Changed the Transfer case oil
• 2) Also changed Transfer case motor (again, a test run to gauge the results),
• 3) Changed steering wheel angle sensor too (also a follow-up test to see what the effect was),
• 4) Front wheel drive shafts have also been replaced (repairing or replacing major mechanical components dictates a test run, too), and
• 5) Front wheel bearings replaced (same criteria, for another major component group)

After many decades of working on hundreds of cars and industrial machines, building and racing some cars and engines I built, I learned to not make too many changes at a time, before I understood the results (tuning, mostly), or changing/upgrading multiple components at a time as well (like changing rear axle ratio, torque converter stall speed, and perhaps carburetor jetting all at once, and racing the next day...with only two test runs).

It takes me 10x the time now to make simple repairs, and twice that to try my theories on my cars, than it used to take. Maybe tht's a good thing, making me slow down. Go slow to make it go, go fast and get passed.

[amebb]

Originally Posted by workingonit

I'm not being critical, but if I was still able to do such extensive repairs & maintenance in a 30-day period, I would've done the work in 5 stages:

• 1) fluid changes: (followed by test run and fluid checks after the test run)
  • a) Changed front diff oil
    b) Changed rear dif oil
    c) Changed the Transfer case oil
• 2) Also changed Transfer case motor (again, a test run to gauge the results),
• 3) Changed steering wheel angle sensor too (also a follow-up test to see what the effect was),
• 4) Front wheel drive shafts have also been replaced (repairing or replacing major mechanical components dictates a test run, too), and
• 5) Front wheel bearings replaced (same criteria, for another major component group)

After many decades of working on hundreds of cars and industrial machines, building and racing some cars and engines I built, I learned to not make too many changes at a time, before I understood the results (tuning, mostly), or changing/upgrading multiple components at a time as well (like changing rear axle ratio, torque converter stall speed, and perhaps carburetor jetting all at once, and racing the next day...with only two test runs).

It takes me 10x the time now to make simple repairs, and twice that to try my theories on my cars, than it used to take. Maybe tht's a good thing, making me slow down. Go slow to make it go, go fast and get passed.

The repairs were not done in one go. They were done in small chunks and NOT in one go.


After doing a certain thing, like changing the transfer case motor and fluid the vehicle was tested on the road and the fault codes were checked also.


When every thing was fine then the next set of repairs had started.


Thanks

[wpoll]

Check the vacuum hoses to the turbo - sounds like there is no vacuum supply to the boost control.

See this post...

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...tor-valve.html

[andrewwynn]

Do you always have low power or have and it fades?

When my turbo solenoid failed i had boost at high rpm not low.

When the reservoir fails, you will have boost that fades, eg going up a hill you start with power that fades away.

Defective hose will be no boost ever.


–awr–

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[amebb]

so lets say i start the car and then drive away normally. The car just feels heavy and not that responsive. If i was to then put my foot down the power does kick in but not instantly as it used to do.


On the motorway when i am doing about 70mph i do have acceleration, but once again it is not what it used to be like.


I have also noticed that sometimes when i do slam my foot down to the floor there is a big cloud of greyish smoke behind me. But this is ONLY when i accelerate hard.


I will look at the vacum pipes and see if they are not perished etc.


Thank you

[andrewwynn]

This sounds more like my problem with wastegate control solenoid.

I could only get boost at high rpm.

If your wg is vacuum controlled pull out it off and see if you can pull vacuum on it. If not it's shot.

Was a simple repair and back to full power.


–awr–

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[amebb]

UPDATE


So i had a look at the vacuum pipes to see if they were all connected and they were. I then had a look at the vacuum tank if it had any damage or leaks etc and it was all fine.


What the issue was that one of the vacuum pipes had a very tiny hole on it that was not really noticeable to the naked eye.


I removed this pipe and tried blowing in to it and then I could hear a hissing sound.


Once the pipe was replaced i started the car and drove it for a bit. There was an immediate improvement to the acceleration and also the sound of the car was much better.


Thank you for all your help in helping me fix this issue - much appreciated.


Thanks