Idle Air Control Valve explanation needed?

[80stech]

I hope it fixes it but I have my doubts. If the problem persists you could try raising the idle speed as a work around. In the old days we would have adjusted the "base idle" at the throttle body so that the IAC motor couldn't drop the idle as far and the engine would have less tendency to stall. That actually was a warranty procedure for some North American car manufacturers to cover their butts for a poor design! Not as easy to do now because the adjustments, if they are there, are made really hard to get to, plus there probably is something else wrong that should be fixed.
Have you ever had an "injector flush?" (cleaner directly to the fuel rail) That can help with carbon buildup and dirty injectors, sometimes all that is needed.

[Meestahbig]

Sadly, you were right. Stalled again, low speed bumper to bumper. Car idles fine, so not changing idle speed. Maybe time for a new one. And focus on my 2096 with 79k miles.

[Meestahbig]

Will swap the plugs and the coil packs with my other car. I'm also wondering if there is anything or something shorted with the original tail lights, which have their typical moments, they are old and I've worked on them. Might swap them too. Maybe there is a short and again, my issue only happens when braking. The car just shuts down. It doesn't hesitate or struggle at all, no bigging, just boop, off.

Someone mentioned to me Torque Converter sticking, but the car doesn't have any other symptoms relating to this such an issue.

I'd like to get more data from the car and record live data if that might help, but not sure what tool would be best to do this?

[Meestahbig]

Brand new spark plugs are in. Nothing truly noticably different, but the car seems to be idling slightly higher, call it 100 rpm higher. The old plugs were old, ashy looking, but didn't look broken or cracked.

[Meestahbig]

Nope. Stalled again.

[80stech]

Another thing you could try is to plug and unplug the DME connector a few times which will
help if the contacts are oxidized. Maybe disconnect battery when doing so though.

[miloh]

I had crank and cam sensors go bad on an e60 which would cause it to die when decelerating at low speed. Any codes or anything?

[Meestahbig]

Nothing, not a single code. Next week for fun, I'm going to swap both cam sensors from my 2096 which are OEM.

SHOULD I ALSO SWAP THE VANOS SOLENOID VALVE WHILE IM IN THERE?

[Meestahbig]

What scan tool should I buy? I've seen the Foxwell 510 forever, would that let me diagnose the sensors and monitor and record live data when driving. I want to resolve this and then I'll have the tool for the 2006 which only has 79k miles

[miloh]

Just for clarification, because you’re in a different circumstance, my cam issue on the e60 was a no fault code issue where I addressed everything ignition related. Finally it failed once, reduced power warning, said cam position invalid which prompted replacement of cam/crank sensors. Took 6 months of irregular driving for it to appear with intermittent stalls the whole time. Runs more peppy now too. N54 vs M54 though, others might have more ideas.