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  #11  
Old 09-04-2006, 09:00 PM
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one way to check is to remove a rear wheel and put the lug bolt into the wheel to see if it seats all the way in with no play. that way you can look from all angles to see if the taper ring on the lug nut does fit all the way in.

however, since the fronts fit all the way in, you can assume the fit is correct as it doesn't make sense for DPE to use 2 different specs when milling just the lug holes.

have you tried it without the spacer to see how the lugs fit in the wheel when torqued down?
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2006, 11:43 PM
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What is the size of the lip and what is the offset of the wheel? Your wheel width is 10", and half of this is 5". If the lip is 3.5" and the offset is 25mm, then you have 5-4.5=0.5", which is the thickness of the wheel base, and that's not much to cover the bolt head. If this is the case, then you have to get bolts with shorter head. Try www.evolutionsports.com or www.purems.com. The X5 needs bolts with thread size 14x1.5.
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  #13  
Old 09-05-2006, 03:11 PM
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What are the actual lengths of thread of the bolts?

Mine are now 55mm but they are conical shaped.

What would worry me about these threads, unless I have missed something, is you now have less thread actually fixing your wheel to the hub.
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2006, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteM
What are the actual lengths of thread of the bolts?

Mine are now 55mm but they are conical shaped.

What would worry me about these threads, unless I have missed something, is you now have less thread actually fixing your wheel to the hub.
from what i understand, he has the H&R Track+ spacers, model DRA which gets bolted to the hub and has new holes for the lug bolts to attach to. and since his spacers are 30mm, the lug bolts should not reach the otherside of the spacer and touch the hub anymore. in which case, the stock lugs would theoretically be fine.

although H&R's press claims that the aluminum/magnesium alloy blend that is use to make these spacers are extremely strong, i have seen otherwise at the race tracks and autocross where wheels come flying off from the shear forces... it's my personal preference to only run spacers with longer lugs/studs that attach to the original hardened steel hub and not to any type of spacer (even for street only driving)
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2006, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayaku
from what i understand, he has the H&R Track+ spacers, model DRA which gets bolted to the hub and has new holes for the lug bolts to attach to. and since his spacers are 30mm, the lug bolts should not reach the otherside of the spacer and touch the hub anymore. in which case, the stock lugs would theoretically be fine.

although H&R's press claims that the aluminum/magnesium alloy blend that is use to make these spacers are extremely strong, i have seen otherwise at the race tracks and autocross where wheels come flying off from the shear forces... it's my personal preference to only run spacers with longer lugs/studs that attach to the original hardened steel hub and not to any type of spacer (even for street only driving)
Blimey. If thats the case I totally agree. My spacer is bolted to my wheel by one allen bolt then the longer bolts fix to the actual wheel hub. I would not trust the set up you describe even for road use with the stresses and turning moments involved on an X's wheel. IMO high risk.
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  #16  
Old 09-05-2006, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteM
Blimey. If thats the case I totally agree. My spacer is bolted to my wheel by one allen bolt then the longer bolts fix to the actual wheel hub. I would not trust the set up you describe even for road use with the stresses and turning moments involved on an X's wheel. IMO high risk.
exactly.. i've witness 2 race cars that lost their wheels while cornering at a nasa race event... they had proper torque and correct sized lugs... the spacer's threading in the holes were ripped right out. threads on the lugs looked like they weren't damaged (but i suggested to them to get new lugs anyways, or at the very least to do a dye penetration test on them).

this is a concern especially with an empty x5 weighing in at 4919 lbs... + driver = 5000+ lbs on a large wheel with very wide tires, there's alot of force going on in that area...
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  #17  
Old 09-30-2006, 09:31 AM
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* deleted * sorry found my answer.

Thanks.

Curtis
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  #18  
Old 09-30-2006, 12:36 PM
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Oh No!

Well Imola!
I thought you had the best X5 on this board; but seeing how your lugs stick out. I gotta drop you down a couple of places.
Hey I didn't even notice till you mention it. Since you mention it does look terrible. Also I hope your safety is not an issuse.
Act quickly on this fix as I like to rank you #1 again.
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  #19  
Old 09-30-2006, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruinMan
Well Imola!
I thought you had the best X5 on this board; but seeing how your lugs stick out. I gotta drop you down a couple of places.
Hey I didn't even notice till you mention it. Since you mention it does look terrible. Also I hope your safety is not an issuse.
Act quickly on this fix as I like to rank you #1 again.

not takin it offensively, but 1persons opinion aint that important right i try hard and keep it clean and the lugs dont bother me that much but thanx for ur concern
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  #20  
Old 09-30-2006, 01:55 PM
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I would contact H&R to see how the setup is supposed to look. Another idea would be to contact the supplier you bought them through.

It just doesn't make sense to me that if the bolts are seated properly on the wheels that they would still stick out. If you put the wheel bolts through the hole with the wheel off of the X5 do they still stick out??
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