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#1
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eBay for suspension parts E53 4.4i
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#2
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hmm...sounds like exactly what I need...just got the clunking noise at 88,000 miles...
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2010 BMW X5 ///M Silverstone Metallic Black/Black Merino with Black Piano Trim Premium Sound Driver Assistance Comfort Access High Gloss Roof Rails Gone but not forgotten: Upgraded! 2003 BMW X5 3.0i Titanium Silver Navigation Cold Weather Package Premium Package Heated Steering Wheel 20" wheels (275/45/R20 all around) Supersprint Magnum Exhaust AFE Cold Air Intake Bimmian Chrome Guage Rings What's A Resonator? |
#3
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bump
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#4
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I would not buy non-OEM suspension pieces. It may seem mundane, but the exact deflection engineered into the oem bushings are very important to the handling. The components that are ok to use aftermarket parts, are the balljoints and tie-rod ends.
Why do you want to replace entire arms? Just get new oem bushings and whatever balljoints, and take the control arms to a machine shop. They'll charge you at most $20-30 to press all the old ones out and the new ones in. Also, as far as the balljoints go: there's no point in replacing them if there's no play. |
#5
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Are the ball joints removable? In a lot of cases, you have no choice. You must change the entire arm, the ball joints are not pressed, but welded.
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#6
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The balljoint in the lateral lower control arm is fixed. There's no balljoint in the radius arm/tension strut. That one's balljoint is in the knuckle.
Still, it's extremely cheap to have a bushing pressed in, so if the balljoint in one of the lateral arms develops play, change the whole arm at that point. No point in spending an extra $60 now when a part is fine. Btw, the radius arm is $160 v. $40 for just the bushing. |
#7
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My only reasoning for changing all the parts is I really don't know which part is causing my clunking. I pulled really hard on the suspension parts, but could find no play in any. Tried that with the wheels on and off the ground. I saw that $349 including shipping bought everything, and I figured that if most of the suspension parts were going to wear out soon, then may as well change them all if it can be done cheaply. I may have more than one part bad as it is. However, if the quality of those aftermarket parts/bushings is poor, then going the non OEM route is out of the question.
I know someone who can press the bushings for me if I end up needing that. I may just start by replacing the strut links, and see if that fixes it. If not, then I guess its going to be a process of elimination! |
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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The tension strut balljoint is actually pressed into the knuckle, so yes it's removable.
Yep, sway-bar endlinks are almost always the cause of 'clunks' in these vehicles. Have you checked yours? |
#10
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Quote:
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