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  #41  
Old 06-27-2008, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhiggins
I have a body shop that is bonded and will do it on the cuff.

My question is do I only do half the clip and replace the suspension or just weld the whole new clip on with the suspension in tact?
Honestly I think everyone feels for you and is concerned about your safety.

However, I do have to ask, if you have a bonded body shop, shouldn't they be able to answer based on the type of impact the car took?

Given the amount of damage and different variables, It's difficult to know without having the car in front of you. They would be best suited to answer that question.
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  #42  
Old 06-28-2008, 12:40 AM
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Even if the driver at the time isn't insured on your policy, why would that matter if someone else hit the car?

Not sure on the safety issue. Since you're in tight spot is it even going to affect your decision. Structurally speaking the base of the A-pillars are a major source of strength for that part of the vehicle. Pass side would be fine to attach there, but driver side has been cut pretty low.

The accuracy of the swap will only be as good as the jigs designed to make it happen. To do a clip swap properly on a Civic is 80+ hours of labor. It certainly isn't going to be less with an X5.

Make sure you find out what the deal is with all the wiring harnesses in that part of the vehicle. And there are some that run up and down the entire length.

Definitely use the suspendo from the clip.
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  #43  
Old 06-28-2008, 08:08 PM
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Final say

All body shops I have contacted after seeing the car (or pictures) agree
that it can be safely repaired. Some won't touch it only because I have
taken the fenders and radiator support off myself. I have one good shop
that will do the job for $2300 if I pull the engine and strip the new front
clip myself. I agree with you all that safety is the paramount issue here. This matter of safety is definitely not up for disscussion.

This is one of the main reasons we drive bmw's (or even volvo's, saab, or mercedes) is the inherent safety built in by the engineers. To compromise that would be stupid. But as I've said I have bonded professional body shops that have experience working on bmw's that agree it can be fixed.

There is no damage to the drivers side of the clip. The wishbone suspension and control arm on the pass side is broken as well as the torsion or ati-sway bar is bent and removed but there is no damage behind the pass strut mount. I just can't see straightening the sub frame rail to just cut it off afterwards unless it was bent at or behind the firewall (which it's not). I thank you for your input and understand everyone's concerns and I completely agree UNDER NO SURCUMSTANCES WOULD I COMPROMISE THE INTEGRITY OF THE VEHICHLE SAFETY WISE! But with that said as you said I have bonded experienced frame shops telling me this can be fixed...it's just how much will it cost.

What I am really asking for is help with info on removing the engine. The
air pump was smashed but I think that will come with the new clip. I know that the new clip contains a complete front suspension. My intension is to use the complete new/used front suspension. I am also considering just cutting the old clip off in it's entirety and welding the new one on with the suspension in tact to save time/money and keep more structural integrity as you then wouldn't have to break, drill or cut any welds other than to the firewall.

Right now the shop that will let me pull the engine myself says $2300 if I
pull the engine $3500 if they do it. So I'm trying to figure out if it's
worth the $1200 to have them pull it. I'm leaning towards no. I have all
the tools and experience (except with this car the E53) to do it. I have
worked on 3's, 7's and even a V12 750 (which sucks to work on btw).

As I said my intention is to at this point cut off the old front clip
without straightening it. I have inspected and put a machinist's level on
the rail in question and there is no damage behind the strut. I intend to
then have the new front clip welded on as one piece by a licensed bonded
frame shop. Then have the car delivered back to me for reassembly of the trim and fenders. I intend to put it back to within BMW spec which is 1mm tolerance. I got the 1mm figure from bmw.

Am I crazy or does that sound reasonable?

I do appreciate all you input and understand your concerns. I would never willingly compromise the structure just to put it back on the road. I have been assured by bmw dealers and repair persons that this will not only be fine but will be bonded and insured by the service providers. The only thing I am going to do is to put the fenders and trim back on and possibly hook up and re-install the engine.

Jeff Higgins
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  #44  
Old 06-29-2008, 02:27 PM
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in two pics your car is gray and the other pics your car is blue
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  #45  
Old 07-01-2008, 01:38 PM
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the car that is damaged is blue. I think the new front clip is grey. Maybe either your confusing the two or looking at the new clip.
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  #46  
Old 07-01-2008, 01:39 PM
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Are there any special issues I should know about in pulling the engine?
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  #47  
Old 07-27-2008, 01:05 AM
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ok your right i'm going to parts it. Just traded my wife's 2003 Jeep in for a 2001 loaded X5 with sport rims. It's sweet and it's the gold metalic. Apparently noby else liked that color 'cause this ones been sitting on the dealers lot for a year. Only has 81K on it got a steal of a deal too. So anybody want parts off the 2000?
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  #48  
Old 07-27-2008, 01:22 AM
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can you list those parts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhiggins
ok your right i'm going to parts it. Just traded my wife's 2003 Jeep in for a 2001 loaded X5 with sport rims. It's sweet and it's the gold metalic. Apparently noby else liked that color 'cause this ones been sitting on the dealers lot for a year. Only has 81K on it got a steal of a deal too. So anybody want parts off the 2000?
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  #49  
Old 07-29-2008, 03:40 AM
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Parts listed

I have everything from the firewall back. 6 way power heated seats everything is there. What do you want?
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  #50  
Old 07-29-2008, 03:40 AM
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Even have the factory tow system.
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