My experience with a laptop GT1

[SlickGT1]

Yes to update. Gt1 connected, after I put the car on a trickle charger and got it above 11v. Have been able to reconnect every time after as long as on charger. Will not work if car is on. Ews fault is gone. Showed up as undervoltage error in gt1. All old codes addressed, now looking at transfer case fluid change, and adaptations reset.

Have two more how too tutorials for you guys. One is how to look up Bluetooth code, one will be for drive adaptations.

[mgbmwx5]

Subscribed! Thanks

[TwinsPoppa]

The 4.8 has been sold and my journey with her is almost complete. I'm sure going to miss her.


First time she's ever failed MD emissions testing. Failed because of code P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected. Of course, its had this condition before in the past and I knew right away what it probably was.


Cold mornings, rough starts, SES light temporarily comes on. Classic symptoms caused by the intermediate levers. I've had this happen since I bought the car and just left it as is since its only a cold weather condition problem.


Anyways, hooked up the GT1 and cleared the codes. Now, I just need to drive it for about 50 miles to make sure the codes don't come back and that its not any other issue.


I'm confident that there isn't any other problems causing the P0300 code.

I'm sorry I don't have any screenshots but I will document some things here. Also, I only use the native installed DISv43 that came pre-installed on the HDD. So, that's what these notes pertain to.

1) More and more, as I've used this system, I kept having frequent problems with Diagnosis mode automatically recognizing my vehicle. In the past I attributed it to, low voltage or a defective OBD2 cable that needed to be pushed and held real hard against the port on the X. The low voltage I think is valid but not a bad OBD2 cable in my case.

I could go into the Administration section disconnect/connect the diagnostic head. It would say programmed 100%. Upon Testing it would indicate that it found the head and could re reached.

However, when I went into Diagnosis and have it recognize my vehicle I would get an error 200.168 something to do with the diagnostic head not being connected - even though it obviously was and tested okay in Admin.

Apparently, the problem is caused by a corrupt HDD/software.
BMW DIS & GT1 ERROR 200.168 – BMW GT1 Software

I was able to image/copy the HDD off another person who had the exact setup as mine - T30, native install of DIS v43. Thanks Steve (Steed77)!

Once I did that, I could connect without issues and have it recognize my vehicle automatically the first try. I didn't need a charger connected because of low voltage. I didn't have the engine running because of low voltage. I didn't need to prop something under the OBD2 cable head so that it would be pushed in very firmly.

So, I bet others have experienced my frustrations before and hope this will help. I had let people borrow my system and at times had to be shipped. So, I think during normal usage and shipping shock I think the system got corrupted.

2) When you do a short test in Diagnosis, I did not realize for the longest time that you could just run the test on one or only selected modules. I had always ran the short test with all the modules which is the default.

3) After the short test, the multiple misfires detected will show up in the symptoms section but is UNSELECTABLE - so it cannot be cleared here. It cannot be Quick Deleted.

4) You should run the short test on the DME module. Then select the Control Module Funtions. There you can select the DME module, again, and then select Read Faults in Memory so you can confirm the faults. Then select Clear Faults in Memory. This should now clear the P0300 code. Sorry, I don't have the BMW codes or screens. If get the exact selection names/modules incorrect, sorry I'm going by memory.

Afterwards, I just ran another short test to ensure the faults did not appear again in memory. Done.

[giodog2000]

Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa

The 4.8 has been sold and my journey with her is almost complete. I'm sure going to miss her.

Hopefully you'll stick around the X world.... ????

[TwinsPoppa]

Originally Posted by giodog2000

Hopefully you'll stick around the X world.... ????

X5world/Xoutpost = Where you come for the information but stay for the friendships!

But of course!

[SlickGT1]

How much did you let it go for Twins?

Are you sure it still didn't work after I re-soldered the connector head?

[TwinsPoppa]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

How much did you let it go for Twins?

Are you sure it still didn't work after I re-soldered the connector head?

Yup, nothing wrong with the head after you re-soldered. Just couldn't connect. Re-imaged the HDD and BAM no problem connecting.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa

* DIY still in progress*
1) Main screen ---------> 2) Select: Diagnosis


3) Select: series & model -> 4) Confirmation vehicle & modules identified


5) Highlights all modules found -> 6) Select: Short Test


7) Answer Variants ------> 8) Short Test completed


9) Select: Function Selection -> 10) Select: Service Functions, Chassis, Dual-axle air suspension EHCII


11) Select: Ride-level adjustment -> 12) Select: Test Plan


13) Displays own test plan -> 14) Prepare vehicle


15) Start calibration: YES -> 16) Confirming Assembly Line Mode


17) Select: Ride height matching, front axle -> 18) Front wheel size: 20


19) Ignore (don't measure) -> 20) Enter Front, Right: 742


21) Enter Front, Left: 742 -> 22) Confirm L&R values and start calibration: YES


23) Front calibration complete, calibrate rear: YES -> 24) Rear wheel size: 20


25) Ignore (don't measure) -> 26) Enter Rear, Right: 744


27) Enter Rear, Left: 744 -> 28) Confirm L&R values and start calibration: YES


29) Rear calibration complete, calibrate front: NO -> 30) Assembly Line Mode deleted


31) Service Function ended -> 32) Select: End, Quit


33) Terminate Operating Mode: Terminate


Ride-Level adjustment complete!

After being lowered 35mm (normally the lowest setting):


If you want to see a before pic, click on the first pic in my sig.

Twins, would this process work well for me if I wanted to lower my X say 10-15mm? I know starting values are 707 and 709 on the ride heights with 20" wheels.

Reasoning is that I know my air suspension was calibrated before I bought the car with ride heights for 18" wheels, I am going to get it recalibrated to correct ride heights and may want to drop 10mm in the process

In that case I could program 717 and 719 mm right?

[TwinsPoppa]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Twins, would this process work well for me if I wanted to lower my X say 10-15mm? I know starting values are 707 and 709 on the ride heights with 20" wheels.

Reasoning is that I know my air suspension was calibrated before I bought the car with ride heights for 18" wheels, I am going to get it recalibrated to correct ride heights and may want to drop 10mm in the process

In that case I could program 717 and 719 mm right?

Yes, you could. If you mess up you can always do the measuring part and compensate. I should update that DIY with a note to only ignore measuring if you are positive that you have the default ride height - or else it won't be correct.

Also, with the GT1 you can accomplish the same thing more ways than one. For example, I think its in the Service Menu, you can manually adjust each corner manually. I forgot the exact distance but I think its 5mm.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa

Yes, you could. If you mess up you can always do the measuring part and compensate. I should update that DIY with a note to only ignore measuring if you are positive that you have the default ride height - or else it won't be correct.

Also, with the GT1 you can accomplish the same thing more ways than one. For example, I think its in the Service Menu, you can manually adjust each corner manually. I forgot the exact distance but I think its 5mm.

And if I wanted to revert back to default setting I just program default values of 707 mm front, 709 mm rear (20" wheels sports suspension) into the same test, correct? So I can ignore measuring since I have the proper values to plug in?


Maybe its the fender flares on the 4.8is and lower bumper treatments that gives the illusion of being lower but my 3.0i with EHCII looks like it needs 10-15 mm more low, I wouldn't go as extreme as your 35mm lowering, although it looks good, just wanted a bit more for a sporty yet still functional look.