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#51
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my question is... i believe i have a bad door lock actuator. the door opens from the both sides and locks also. but the key mechanism and lock indicator do not work. would this fix this? by lubing the actuator?
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2009 BMW E60 LCI 528Xi SOLD 2002 BMW X5 3.0i E53 ![]() ![]() |
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#52
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Hello ake53,
As you will see from Pics 10 and 11 of Brian's first post, the lock actuator is a 'sealed unit'. So, if you can still open/close and lock the door with the central locking, the cleaning/lubricating solution discussed in this thread, may not be for you. Nevertheless, you will have to follow Brian's instructions to remove it and replace it. I suggest you find out if you can quickly source a spare one (maybe from a motor wrecker) and be prepared to swap it over, if you can't fix your one. Maybe your problem relates to the point where the key barrel joins the actuator unit? You will have to remove it and see. Good luck.......... |
#53
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Brilliant
Brian,
Thank you for the million dollar tip!!!! I used a spoke from a bicycle wheel as a tool. It worked perfectly, it took me 3 minutes to open the door. Thanks again, Regards, Floris |
#54
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PASSENGER DOOR WONT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE
Hi all, first off a big thank you to this forum and its members. The assistance you have provided has been invaluable. And am therefore please to contribute as well.
PASSENGER DOOR WONT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE First determine by listening if the actuator is working or not. In my case it was not. So there was no signal from the door module (located on passenger door window switch) to the actuator. I could therefore not open the door from either the inside or outside. THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE DOOR CARD INSITU IN THIS CASE. What you need to do is “hot wire “ the actuator; Remove the door switch, using a flat tool, preferably plastic. Undo all the connectors on the bottom of the unit. The white connector feeds power to the actuator motors. You need to find the BLUE, WHITE and BLACK wires on this connector (PINS 12, 6 & 7) The BLUE is the common wire with WHITE and BLACK going to the motors in the actuator. LOCK: +12V to the WHITE/ BLACK wire and –ve/ ground on the BLUE wire UNLOCK: +12V on the BLUE wire and –ve/ground on the WHITE/ BLACK wire You have to reverse polarity to LOCK and UNLOCK. TIP: I simply used a small jumper wire and used the existing +12V and –ve available on the big black connector to pulse the actuator. WARNING: There are BUS cables amongst these – SO PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU ARE COMPETENT AND ABSOLUTELY SURE OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING!! PM if I have not been clear on any issue and I can also send you a copy of the schematic. I will try to load pics, but don’t really know how. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#55
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First thanks to this thread. Two posts here really helped me. The one above, and the one about pulling fuses 20 and 24.
I changed the drivers side lock actuator. I was testing the door and then tried to lock and unlock it and it got stuck. The double lock would not disengage. With the fuse trick i got the door open. The post above clued me in that the window switch had something to do with the locks too, even though there is not lock switch on it. What I believe caused my door to be stuck locked was testing it without the window switch unit plugged back in. Now the fix worked as advertised. So to sum up, DO NOT TEST THE LOCK UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PLUGGED BACK IN. |
#56
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Quote:
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2015 F15 X5 3.0D 2008 E70 X5 3.0D 2001 E53 X5 3.0 2001 E46 318i |
#57
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Quote:
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E90 318i 2007 N46 2.0 Manual E53 X5 2004 M54 3.0 Sport Auto E83 X3 2004 M54 2.5 Auto |
#58
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2015 F15 X5 3.0D 2008 E70 X5 3.0D 2001 E53 X5 3.0 2001 E46 318i |
#59
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Muj,
I Wish I could tell you the technical reason why it works, but I can only assume it resets the module. |
#60
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Quote:
See pic of drooping handle. ![]()
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I love this forum!!!! ![]() Alan 1999 BMW 328i sedan with auto...In progress... 2002 BMW X5 3.0i with auto...In progress... 2007 BMW Z4 3.0i 6 speed manual...In progress... |
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