Door Lock Stuck - Fix with Pics!!!

[ake53]

first off sorry i did not read the 5 pages in this thread.

my question is... i believe i have a bad door lock actuator. the door opens from the both sides and locks also. but the key mechanism and lock indicator do not work.
would this fix this? by lubing the actuator?

[craigsx5]

Hello ake53,

As you will see from Pics 10 and 11 of Brian's first post, the lock actuator is a 'sealed unit'.

So, if you can still open/close and lock the door with the central locking, the cleaning/lubricating solution discussed in this thread, may not be for you.

Nevertheless, you will have to follow Brian's instructions to remove it and replace it.

I suggest you find out if you can quickly source a spare one (maybe from a motor wrecker) and be prepared to swap it over, if you can't fix your one. Maybe your problem relates to the point where the key barrel joins the actuator unit? You will have to remove it and see.

Good luck..........

[floris]

Brian,
Thank you for the million dollar tip!!!!
I used a spoke from a bicycle wheel as a tool.
It worked perfectly, it took me 3 minutes to open the door.
Thanks again,
Regards, Floris

[Mujahid]

Hi all, first off a big thank you to this forum and its members. The assistance you have provided has been invaluable. And am therefore please to contribute as well.

PASSENGER DOOR WONT OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE
First determine by listening if the actuator is working or not. In my case it was not. So there was no signal from the door module (located on passenger door window switch) to the actuator.
I could therefore not open the door from either the inside or outside. THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE DOOR CARD INSITU IN THIS CASE.
What you need to do is “hot wire “ the actuator;
Remove the door switch, using a flat tool, preferably plastic.



Undo all the connectors on the bottom of the unit.
The white connector feeds power to the actuator motors.
You need to find the BLUE, WHITE and BLACK wires on this connector (PINS 12, 6 & 7)
The BLUE is the common wire with WHITE and BLACK going to the motors in the actuator.
LOCK: +12V to the WHITE/ BLACK wire and –ve/ ground on the BLUE wire
UNLOCK: +12V on the BLUE wire and –ve/ground on the WHITE/ BLACK wire
You have to reverse polarity to LOCK and UNLOCK.

TIP: I simply used a small jumper wire and used the existing +12V and –ve available on the big black connector to pulse the actuator.
WARNING: There are BUS cables amongst these – SO PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU ARE COMPETENT AND ABSOLUTELY SURE OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!
PM if I have not been clear on any issue and I can also send you a copy of the schematic. I will try to load pics, but don’t really know how.

[billdo]

First thanks to this thread. Two posts here really helped me. The one above, and the one about pulling fuses 20 and 24.

I changed the drivers side lock actuator. I was testing the door and then tried to lock and unlock it and it got stuck. The double lock would not disengage. With the fuse trick i got the door open. The post above clued me in that the window switch had something to do with the locks too, even though there is not lock switch on it. What I believe caused my door to be stuck locked was testing it without the window switch unit plugged back in.

Now the fix worked as advertised.

So to sum up, DO NOT TEST THE LOCK UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PLUGGED BACK IN.

[Mujahid]

Originally Posted by billdo

First thanks to this thread. Two posts here really helped me. The one above, and the one about pulling fuses 20 and 24.

I changed the drivers side lock actuator. I was testing the door and then tried to lock and unlock it and it got stuck. The double lock would not disengage. With the fuse trick i got the door open. The post above clued me in that the window switch had something to do with the locks too, even though there is not lock switch on it. What I believe caused my door to be stuck locked was testing it without the window switch unit plugged back in.

Now the fix worked as advertised.

So to sum up, DO NOT TEST THE LOCK UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PLUGGED BACK IN.

"fuse trick"??

[white lancer]

Originally Posted by THeMV

Hello,

In my car I needed to replace the driver door actuator, some plastic thiny broke, so the inside door handle wasn't working anymore.
After replacement the driver door was not working anymore on the key or console button.
I removed fuses 20 and 24, next it was working again.

Hope this helps some one...
Greetings!

maybe this resets the module?

[Mujahid]

Originally Posted by white lancer

maybe this resets the module?

Aaaah, will try that.

[billdo]

Muj,

I Wish I could tell you the technical reason why it works, but I can only assume it resets the module.

[CrazyOneToo]

Originally Posted by BrianX54.4is

8. If working on the drivers side lock you will need to next remove the key
cylinder.
Pop off the blind plug in the door jamb (centre piece first) and remove the hex screw as shown below.
Attachment 34759

9. Pry out the key cylinder (the pic shows the passenger door so this is a cylinder blank).
Now remove the 3 T30 torx screws to release the lock.
Rotate the lock in the door cavity to access and remove the wiring connector
Remove the lock from the door cavity as shown.
Attachment 34760

10. Here is a pic of the now removed lock.
Attachment 34761

Does the key cylinder just slide back in or is it tricky? My outside door handle slides down some when resting. I can push it back up and it stays but I'd like to tighten whats loose. I have never had mine apart and don't want to take apart something I can't reassemble. I watched a video on YouTube and think it may be the bolt that slides into the horseshoe shaped holder that is loose. Maybe the nut is loose? My E46 one just slid apart and right back together. BTW I have only had the X a month now but my door locks, unlocks, and opens just fine.

See pic of drooping handle.