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  #61  
Old 01-11-2014, 02:22 PM
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Not sure how she did it, but three days ago the wife managed to get the passenger door stuck in the closed position and neither inner or outer door handle would open door. Locking system would respond to both key fob and console master button, but door would not open. Did a search, and found this thread. Once I made the 'tool', it took 30 seconds to get the door open. I worked the inner and outer handles a few times, and it now opens without a hitch. Once the weather clears up, I will remove the inner door skin and clean and lube the lever and pivot to hopefully keep it from happening again. Kudos to Brian for figuring this out and posting the great info.

Thanks again.

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  #62  
Old 11-18-2014, 04:12 PM
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THANKS A MILLION BRIAN!
Few days ago the door of my 2004 X5 3.0D stayed unlocked after opening it.
Meaning I could close it but it would not latch.
After trying to close it a few times it did close but would not open anymore....
Had to enter the car via the passenger door.
When pulling on the outside door handle I did not feel any resistance anymore and the inside door handle didn't do anything either.
The electric lock did work as usual.
A search on youtube revealed some vids on how to replace the door lock actuator and how to repair a door handle.
The BMW dealer told me it could be a tough job to replace the lock mechanism with the door being closed...
Managed to get the panel partly loose without damaging it but could not do anything further apart from trying to push/pull every metal item I could feel.
Decided to order a new door lock in the mean time (51218402537).

In the evening I started searching again for a fix and came across this topic.
Made a stiff rod as per Brian's specs and within a minute the door was open!
removed the inside panel completely and could open/close/lock/open the door as usual.
Will remove the lock tomorrow and apply a good coat of grease on the moving joints.
Thanks again Brian!

Last edited by Eric Le Baron; 11-20-2014 at 05:19 AM.
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  #63  
Old 11-19-2014, 07:38 PM
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Im having the same issue i mad the jig and have tryed and tryed to unlock the passenger door but have had no luck.
I have got the jig down where it needs to be and i can open the latch by pushing down on the rod but can not get the door open. Any suggestions?
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  #64  
Old 11-20-2014, 05:47 AM
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Is the electric lock actuator still working?
If all the doors are locked, can you unlock them all by pulling on the inside of the door handle of the affected door?
Do you feel resistance when you pull on the inside door handle?
Do you feel resistance when you lift the outside door handle?
I mean the same resistance as on the other doors.
Can you move the welding rod up/down by pulling on the outside door handle (to be sure that it rests on the correct lever)?

The dealer told me that if it's the inside of the lock not working properly it might help if someone pushes on the door while trying to open it.
It would release the pressure on the locking part of the doorlock.
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  #65  
Old 11-20-2014, 12:49 PM
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I just read the first page so far, but I'd like to add my findings too lol.

This happened to me yesterday, and it luckily isn't my first stuck hinge/handle situation.

All I did was move the latch in the door by hand so it locks (door will bounce off the car if you try to close it now) then you just lift up on the handle and it opens the latch assembly again, and the door will close.

I shot some undercoating in the hinge assembly later on, but here's hoping I can avoid this by SLOOOWLY opening my door haha.
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  #66  
Old 12-26-2014, 01:10 AM
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Thank you ...Thank you...Thank you...I fixed my door carrier and the door would not open once I used the key fob to lock it. It would not open from the outside or the inside. But using a coat hangar and pushing down on the carrier cable finally worked.
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  #67  
Old 12-26-2014, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scirocco View Post
Thank you ...Thank you...Thank you...I fixed my door carrier and the door would not open once I used the key fob to lock it. It would not open from the outside or the inside. But using a coat hangar and pushing down on the carrier cable finally worked.
I would not call that a fix. A fix is when you repair something so it will operates as designed.
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  #68  
Old 12-26-2014, 11:15 AM
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Fully agreed. It is not a fix. But now I can fix it...I can now remove the door pad easily without destroying anything.
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  #69  
Old 01-19-2015, 11:17 AM
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Well I just read 7 pages of excellent material.My problemis the rear drivers side door is closed ,lock mechanism works with both central locking switch,key fob ,and by pulling the inside handle. The only problem, the door will not open .. This happened about 3 weeks ago and it was freezing out so I figured I would just wait out the weather and fix it when it got warmer. One day I took the truck to the car wash and after the guys were done drying it one of them went to open the door and BINGO the door opened. Luckily I had some WD-40 and I sprayed the crap outta the door latch area and it worked fine till last night. Now I'm scratching my head like WTF? I guess I'll wait (or go to car wash again ,LOL) . Should I remove the mechanism and grease it up ? Or could it be the cable as described not having enough "tension"? Thanks
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  #70  
Old 05-31-2015, 02:02 PM
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Well done Brian.

Thanks Brian. My wife had a knee replacement operation and I picked her up from hospital in my 2006 3.0D. Once in, I could not get her out as neither the internal or external door handles would work. I lowered the front passenger seat as far as possible and she slid into the back seat and out the back door. Not easy 5 days after the op. Anyway, next day I read this article (I was forwarded to it by Xdrivers.co.uk). I found an old bicycle mudguard stay and bent it as advised and the door was open in about a minute. After opening, the mechanism clicked back into gear so no further action needed at this stage. The new tool (mudguard stay) is now in the door compartment in case of need. Your guide really was a lifesaver. Thanks again.
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