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#21
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#22
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Resolved this issue around 60k miles on mine...it was the hose. Replaced hose with new clamps.
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#23
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Quote:
You want to be in the middle range with the fluid up to operating temps, iirc. Look closely and I think you'll see one says hot and the other cold (I think).
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Kirk Las Vegas 2016 X5 40e Mineral White/Black Dakota Leather, ZLL, ZCW, ZDA, ZDB, ZPP, multi contour seats, rear side window shades, HK stereo 2011 E90M3, 6-speed manual |
#24
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I am about to change hose #4 by myself, and i didnt want to mess this up. Can someone please verify I am doing this correctly:
1) use turkey baster to remove existing fluid in reservoir? (will it still leak when I disconnect hose?) 2) disconnect hose from reservoir, then use crescent wrench to remove other end from the cooler 3) reconnect with two worm style clamps on both ends? I am unsure what the hose looks like on the cooler end, but it looks like theres a metal part to it. Does it come with that metal part when i buy the hose, and i would just need to buy the clamp to connect it? 4) refill fluid ![]() also, any suggestions on where to buy the hose online? dealer wanted $66 after tax. thanks |
#25
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please help with directions
How do I loosen the damn bmw clamp? its nearly impossible with the amount of space Nevermind about this one, I just spent some extra time to pry the shit out of it.
Also, what do I do with the crescent wrench on the end with the metal and plastic? I havent read anywhere on how I am supposed to loosen that? Do I hold the plastic part so it stays and doesnt move, then press the entire thing in? Someone who has done this please help me, I dont want to break anything Last edited by patholiar; 11-26-2010 at 07:07 PM. |
#26
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Okay, figured it out.
If other people want to try this, here is my super non mechanic write up: To loosen the BMW crimp style hose clamp, just try find where that crimp is, and then use a long flat screw driver to pry the shit out of it. Or I guess you could find something to cut it with, which i didnt have a tool for. This took the longest as I hardly had any space. For the other end with the plastic and metal pieces, when using the crescent wrench, press one end of the plastic tab towards the metal piece. Then I just used my other hand to press the other side of the plastic in so the entire plastic piece is now pressed in. Then I just pulled the entire hose out. The insert the new hose, you need to press the plastic piece in again. I just used the wrench to slide it in. Quote:
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#27
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My 06 BMW X5 4.4 @ 63K miles, power steering fluid is starting leaking. I am looking at to replace #1, #3 and #4 hoses. I see #1 is wet. As preventive, I will replace them all. Yes, I am surprise that these hoses are going bad so early. You should use BMW fluid, ZF. Don't use Mobil1.
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#28
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Looks like another DIY for me after I recuperate from prolonged use of my back muscles. This last 2 weekends, I've changed my HID (involves removing the front bumper), air filter and spark plugs. People say changing the spark plug is a “1” out of a “10” scale which is true but how about getting to it and pulling out the coils especially the last two on the driver side?
But as much as complain, it will hurt my pride more not doing it myself since it seems easy enough and having to pay stealership prices. So crescent tool it is, whatever that isJ |
#29
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My wife's '05 3.0i (80K mi.) started making the funky grinding sound when turning (oddly more when turning right than left). Checked this forum and then the reservoir which was all but empty. The shorter 'radiator return hose' was weeping at the connection to the reservoir. It had leaked enough over the years to create a crusty mess on the alternator. Based on what I learned in this thread and the fact that the hose itself seemed to be in great shape, I decided to just change out the hose clamp.
It's tight down there so in addition to the usual intake shroud plastics, I had to remove the boot that comes up from the throttle body and connects to the mass air flow sensor to gain access. I used a narrow (1/8") flat bladed screwdriver to carefully spread the crimped factory hose clamp enough to slide it down the hose where I could use tin snips to sever/remove it. A new clamp (one for hoses up to 7/8" diam. is best) and some cleanup of the hose and crusty alternator and reassembled without incident. I refilled the reservoir to spec, then started the motor and did two full lock turns in each direction per instructions in the Bentley manual and rechecked the level. I'll check it in a day or two to confirm that the leak has stopped, but feel confident that I got it. We had a cooling system failure (cracked expansion tank, thermostat) and while it was at the dealer they identified a list as long as my arm of things that it needed. Nearly $6K for the list, which included nearly $1K to replace weeping power steering hoses. I find it offensive that the dealer doesn't seem to have any diagnostic skills and instead chooses to use a shotgun/replace everything approach to repairs that is wasteful and espensive as hell. Not sure how many hoses were included in the $1K estimate, but only one $45 hose was showing signs of leaking and it was the most accessible one to replace. No way the repair estimate should have been that exorbitant. Had it been more reasonable I might have been inclined to let them do the work while they had the car. Thanks to all who posted here with their experiences. It was truly helpful. Ron |
#30
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2002 X5 3.0 Very slow leak at bottom of the pump
I see a drop of power steering oil at the most lowest part of the power steering pump. It appears (not 100% certain) to be leaking where the pressure hose in connected to the pump at the bottom. I got my mechanic to replace the gasket ring#6 (see the new diagram link) but it is still leaking.
RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 3.0i HYDRO STEERING-OIL PIPES Since it is a slow leak it is very hard to trace the leak. My mechanic says it is leaking from the pump but I don't see it leaking from the pump (My mechanic uses the shot gun approach; My power window got stuck and he said the motor had gone. But when I gave a small push it goes up so he says well the "power of the motor is not enough to push the glass as the motor is weak. I told him that I hear a clicking/breaking sound when the glass is going up or down so it has to be the window cable assembly . Then he says then replace both. I asked him only to replace the cable assembly and my window is working fine) Should I replace the #3 Pressure horse assembly? Any tips to trouble shoot |
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