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  #351  
Old 05-31-2016, 06:03 PM
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And I found a place that will rebuild my current axles for 90-135.00 max per. They keep the existing shaft and replace the boots with GNK's and regrind some other parts and replace others/ The shop said you never want to give up your original axles if you can help it. I looked into this as a back up since I am preparing to take this on. I bet I spend a 100 hours reading and watching videos before I attempt this.

I can easily afford paying someone to do it, but I am trying to be like some of you guys that are pulling engines and rebuilding suspension. That and I sucked at this stuff as a kid and now, at 44, want to prove to myself that I can do this sort of thing well. Too bad the experience does not come easily. But when does it?
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  #352  
Old 05-31-2016, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squidzilla View Post
Is it possible this method will work on any BMW AWD car? The reason I ask is my e46 XI is now showing grease on the passenger side front wheel. I am certain it is the boot that is torn.

Being new, I am thinking "sure it will work on an xi as well", but what the hell do I know. My mechanics resume is shorter than this post.
This thread has 35 pages to it all ready, so your mechanic skill must be very impressive.
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  #353  
Old 05-31-2016, 09:00 PM
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If you already have the axle out of the car, it's not that hard to replace the CV joint. You can purchase an outer CV joint for under 50 bucks and that includes a new rubber boot, new axle nut and the grease.

Outer CV Joint 27X65X30 - BMW X5 E53 1999-2006 - OEM: 31607503538 Febest: 1910-X5 - Newegg.com
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Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
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  #354  
Old 05-31-2016, 11:26 PM
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Thanks for the tip. I wish my resume was as long as the thread. I guess I meant as long as that one post only. Trying to debate between that part and an Autozone Duralast with lifetime warranty. Reading about Cardone as well. I plan on holding on to my original axles as well and having them rebuilt for the next failure. The e46 uses the same part number for the boots as the X5 so I am looking to see if the axles are the same as well. I can have rebuilt OE spares waiting.
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2001 E53 X5 3.0 Auto. Silver Black Build date 10-17-2000 140k miles
2001 E46 330xi Auto. Silver/Black Build Date 11-30-2000 135k miles
2004 E60 545i Sport 6MT. Black/Black Build Date 6-2004 83k miles
2003 E53 X5 3.0 5MT Silver/Black Build date 11-25-2002 90k miles
2003 E53 X5 4.6is Black/Black Build Date 8-2003 109k miles
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  #355  
Old 06-01-2016, 09:45 AM
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Honestly if they are already spewing grease just get the GKN Loebro replacements for both sides ($250 apiece) or buy the GKN outer boot kits ($20 apiece) and the outer CV joint part # 31607586433 -

I dont know where Febest part is made but I know from the dealer the outer CV joints are approx $170 - if you can cross reference the part # you can probably find the GKN part number and it would be cheaper than the dealer - I also am not a fan of shops doing rebuilds that regrind components, as it compromises integrity of the metallurgy, however, I do agree with them that you want to always keep your OE axles if you can - they are built to last hundreds of thousands of miles

Dont waste your time, money, or energy on parts store junk IMO - ok the "duralast" or Cardone has a lifetime warranty - that doesnt include your time - how many times do you want to do the axle job? Do it right or do it twice.
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  #356  
Old 06-01-2016, 09:48 AM
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  #357  
Old 06-01-2016, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
Honestly if they are already spewing grease just get the GKN Loebro replacements for both sides ($250 apiece) or buy the GKN outer boot kits ($20 apiece) and the outer CV joint part # 31607586433 -

I dont know where Febest part is made but I know from the dealer the outer CV joints are approx $170 - if you can cross reference the part # you can probably find the GKN part number and it would be cheaper than the dealer - I also am not a fan of shops doing rebuilds that regrind components, as it compromises integrity of the metallurgy, however, I do agree with them that you want to always keep your OE axles if you can - they are built to last hundreds of thousands of miles

Dont waste your time, money, or energy on parts store junk IMO - ok the "duralast" or Cardone has a lifetime warranty - that doesnt include your time - how many times do you want to do the axle job? Do it right or do it twice.
GERMAN QUALITY CONTROL: Our German quality control experts ensure that all parts are of the utmost quality. We have specially developed metals and rubbers that create a super durable, and long lasting end product. Base on their description, I would assume it is made in Germany.

Part is also available from Amazon with free shipping and a review of the part.

Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: FEBEST 1910-X5 Outer CV Joint
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2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD

Last edited by upallnight; 06-01-2016 at 10:50 AM.
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  #358  
Old 04-20-2017, 11:51 PM
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2002 BMX X5 4.4 outer cv boot.
Here is my experience doing this work.
0) Only removed the control arm bolt.
1) I tried vice grips/bar and banging options to pull the outer joint with no success (even rotated rotor a few times).
2) Opted for inner boot alternative but had to order it (GKN). Also ordered snap ring pliers. I had to wait for part but this option worked very well as others have done it (only messier).
3) I had a hard time using the clamp plier tool under car (no good leverage). So ended up ordering 'OTC 4722 Stinger Heavy-Duty CV Boot Clamp Installer’ from Amazon and the tool worked great. I strongly recommend it.
4) I was unable to torque the control arm nut/lug with wheels on floor. So I got a hold of a couple of 4x4 blocks that gave me enough space and leverage for the torque wrench.
5) I reused the control arm bolt and nut. I’ve driven the car for some time now and checked it a few times and looks OK. I should have installed a new one for peace of mind but just wanted to get the work done.

I spent a week on this including time spent waiting for the parts/tools and googling for options/ideas. Now that I know what to do and have the proper tools, I think I can do this in a couple of hours.

The net is... Order both inner and outer boots, buy control arm nut and bolt, and get the right tools. Job should be done in a couple of hours.
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