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#71
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I had the complete joint out of the hub but still attached to the shaft so held the shaft and hit the cv joint with a hammer . it separated easily . the splined shaft fits into a splined part of the cv joint . I have added a pic from fp997 to show this . it is the star shape part in the center of pic . the "c" clip holds the 2 parts in place . this is what drives the wheel . the bearing and cup allow for movement . so all you need to do is unbolt the control arm remove clamps from boot hold shaft . hit cv joint to dislodge the "c" clip and that is it . impact or leverage will separate the cv joint from the shaft , you will figure it . 8 pages in and we have the diy down to a few words on 3 lines . that`s progress . easy peasy . Last edited by amacman; 03-14-2011 at 01:55 AM. |
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#72
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So then it's put on the new boot, put axle back thru the star, re-attach c-clip, and reassemble star into cv? |
#73
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I don't think its possibel to reassemble star into cv like you describe since to do so, you need to insert star at like 180 degree (if this was possible it would be poor design as the joint can come apart after its mounted on the car!). this will become more apparent as you do the job. i was wondering a lot of the same things you were, but when i got down to do it, it sort of cleared up. |
#74
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mfiver , if you were a bit closer than the 6000 miles between us I would be quicker to replace the boot for you .
it will take time to absorb all the info to do this diy for the first time . you will be fine , don`t rush . I attach this pic from fp997 showing how and where to remove the shaft from the cv joint . you may not need to remove the star and bearings from the cv joint . if there is no grit in the grease it should be ok , it`s your call . you could clean it out and re-grease it insitu or remove the bearings and star assembly from the cup whilst the cup remains in the hub . fp997 used leverage to separate the shaft from cv joint I ( or rather big W the engineer ) used a reasonable tap with a hammer . the `c` clip does not usually require much force to release . as fp997 says the bearing assembly needs to turn 180 degrees before you can remove it from the cup for cleaning . all shown in the pics on page 6 . Last edited by amacman; 03-14-2011 at 11:43 PM. |
#75
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Thanks to everyone, very very much!
Here's the deal: I usually do my own work and would figure it out as I go= along.....but, I've injured my back and have to take it into a shop, as one outer boot is now completely separated. So I have to understand the procedure well enough to be able to convince my mechanic bill me for 30 minutes (well let's say an hour) rather than the 3 hours in his book. Since I have to do both sides we're talking about (6 hours x $95=) $570 vs (2 hours x $95) = $190 In order to convince him to pursue this route and I have be able to understand it myself in advance, without laying hands or eyes on the parts. So sorry for the many questions but, I have changed many CV's, boots and axles (Porsche & VW) and I've never forced out an axle with a c-clip in place. This is an entirely new concept to me and it's hard to imagine popping the c-clip out with force... and well as sliding the axle back thru the star with the c-clip in place. So thanks again for your patience and continued replies! It is deeply appreciated. |
#76
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Everyone explains things slightly different, and some people pick a little from each one.
If I had to do it again. No need to remove anything except the wheel. Try doing the OUTER boot first, using clamps, or quick blows, then if no go, don't waste any more time like I did. To save the hassle I went though. 1) Buy INNER and OUTER boots and $8 CV boot clamp from Advanced Auto Parts 2) Jack up front 3) Unbolt the straight control arm at the engine side 4) remove inner and outer boot clamp, hold rotor and pull outwards, 5) remove the C clip from the inner bearings (3 wheeled thing) 6) tap or pull the inner bearing off 7) remove and replace both inner and outer boots and clamps 8) tap back on inner bearing, reinstall C clip 9) Fit inner joint back into the cup, tighten all 4 inner and outer CV clamps, 10) reinstall control arm but only tighten fully with front wheels on the ground. 11) Put wheels back on. DONE |
#77
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Gentlemen, a question...
I posted earler in this thread that i had a local indy shop do my 2 outer CV boots, they did it via popping the outer CV joint apart and pulling the strut away. I got the vehicle back and since the repair, it sounds like my front end is falling out. I've checked all the bolts for tightness, I know they had to disconnect the lower arm at the chassis, the ball joints seem fine and i can't beleive i simultaniously blew the front 2 struts. My question is with the axle reassembled, should I be able so slide the half shaft shaft back and forth along its splines? I can grab the shaft and slide it back and forth spline wise about .125", as though im pulling it out of the outer CV joint. From reading the post, I see that when done the way the indy shop did it, you have to force the C clip out of its position and i"m wondering if when they re-assembled the joint that they short cutted and omitted the C clip. I would assume the C clip would keep the axle in position in the outer CV joint and the half shaft shouldn't move?? Any thoughts appreciated |
#78
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Ok. Just did this project. I took the time to pull pictures and descriptions from the posts above, mixed with some of my own thoughts to summarize what worked. This was a very quick job relative to what is mentioned in the Bentley manual. Hopefully this clarifies it for everyone (Sticky???). Did I miss anything?
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Aaron 2004 X5 4.4i |
#79
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Well this worked great for me. The first side took a hour and the other side 30 minutes. Thanks for the help.
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#80
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I've just done both sides on mine this weekend. One was split and needed doing so I figured I'd do both and good job too - the one that wasn't split had a load of water in it The boot wasn't original and the joint looks lower quality than the first one so I guess it's been replaced at some point. No idea how the water got in, unless someone fitted it in the rain or something
Anyway, the main thing I wanted to add to the thread was that I had loads of trouble splitting the second CV joint. I think the c-clip needs to be sitting "just so" to be able to pop out, so if you're heaving away with the pry bar and nothing's happening, turn the shaft a bit and try again. It'll come out relatively easily when it's lined up right. If it's not lined up you've got no chance. IMO, IME, etc. |
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