CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES

[TriX5]

I have the tools for removing the CVJ from the hub and prefer to do it that way. Also, I take the tension strut and the LCA off but leave the hub carrier on the strut. This gives me enough space to get the CVJ out and then pry it off the axle.

On my 03 the C-clips were very tight and it took me a some time to find the best method. I have the left side off my 06 right now and the joint fell off without much effort at all. It really does depend.

[Sbjkmtce]

I just had both front outer boots replaced at $337 at autotek performance centre, Christchurch, nz. The boots cost $47, 3 hrs labour plus 15% gst tax.
The other Indy Kevin Burt Ltd quoted $485 for per boot, that is well over $900!!!

[Multibeemer]

Yeah, it's amazing how much variation there is to this job. I suppose if you really know what you're doing, and you have the right tools, and a bit of luck, this job can be done fairly quickly. I didn't have any such luck, as none of the tricks and short-cuts worked, try as I might. So, working by myself, with floor jacks and hand tools, it took me over six hours per side.

[JGroves]

I found both outer CV boots torn and leaking on our '05 X5 during a brake lining replacement. After reading this thread I opted to try the method detailed on page 8: unbolt lower control arm and separate shaft from outboard joint. I started on the driver's side, and like some of you, I couldn't get it loose regardless of how I held my mouth or the degree of profanity employed. So I resorted to plan B and removed the perfectly good inner boot. The inner joint workings came apart easily, so after a trip to NAPA for two inner boot kits, I dug into the other side.

I had the opposite problem on the pass. side: I couldn't get the inner business off the shaft - but one light tap at it with a punch and the shaft came loose on the outer end. Great.

This was the most horrific fix-it job I have ever been through, mostly on account of all the grease. I swapped all four boots over a span of 8 hours, which included 3 trips out to the parts store and lunch. So I spent probably 6 hours working. Most of that was trying to separate the shafts from one end or the other. If they come apart easily it's not going to take long.

As mentioned in this thread, the inner joint grease is a different type than the outer. I just used what came with the kits. Also, it was difficult to torque the control arm bolts after putting on the wheels and dropping the vehicle (no clearance to swing the wrench). I jacked it back up and torqued the bolts to 74 ft-lbs. Spec says 74 and then another 90 degrees. Wasn't happening without removing the wheels again so I left it at 74 ft-lbs. Anyone think this might be a problem? Seemed plenty tight...

[Multibeemer]

Wow, your experience mirrors mine almost to a "T", with the exception of your ability to get the outer part of the shaft off on the passenger side - mine wouldn't budge on either side. Not that I didn't waste a lot of time trying to get the outers off.

I also found this to be a miserable job - greasy, heavy, sweaty (even though I did it in the winter), nasty, and dangerous. And those were the good qualities. It took me six+ hours per side. My BS flag is sky high to anyone who claims they can do this monster in 30 minutes - maybe with a lift, power tools, and an F1 pit crew at the ready.

And I also have neglected to tighten the control arm bolts the additional 90 degrees - been planning to do it, but have never gotten around to it. I was going to drive the front wheels onto the sidewalk to give myself more room under the car. But so far,there haven't been any ill effects from leaving then at 74 lb-ft.

[JGroves]

Yep, just an all around PITA job. I don't know how long the boots have been torn, but with my luck the joints themselves are about to go and I'll have done it all in vain. There was still plenty of grease in there, and it seemed pretty clean (kind of bluish gray more than black, and definitely not brown) but I'm sure water has been in there.

I still don't know if I could stand to fork over the $$$ to have $40 worth of plastic and grease replaced by a real mechanic, but I sure don't want to ever do that again! I changed a boot on an S-10 Blazer many years ago and I don't remember it being such a chore. And I was much younger and less patient back then.

I agree about 30 minutes being awfully optimistic, although I guess if you've practiced it a few times and don't run into any trouble (ha!) and you have a well organized tool kit and maybe a helper...

[TwinTurboGTR]

Its though the fist go around. It took me 4 hours to do my fist CV boot. Since then I have done 4 boot jobs on my X and each one I get faster and faster. The last one I did it in an hour and half. That is probably the fastest I can do it in without forgetting anything.

[mikevn]

I don't think we DIY-ers can get this done in 30'. On top of that the hub puller for X5 is expensive. What I did was leaving the CV stick to the wheel and pull the axle out from the inner side. It's much easier to remove the gear from the inner end and put it back, comparing to pull out the hub.

[1stE53]

Why does my front left axle sit so close to the frame that it keeps breaking the clamp and shooting grease everywhere? I am now replacing another axle after just one year. Do you think it is an engine mount or transmision mount gone bad? Thank you!!

[stevekat]

After reading most of this thread, I am opting to replace my axles. They are here. Two Cardone Select for total of about $117 delivered. I ordered a 40" 3/4" breaker bar from Amazon, a 36mm 12 point socket for $13, got an impact wrench for $40 on sale at Harbor Freight with a 20% coupon, and a 1 1/8 3 in 1 hammer drill for $80 from Harbor Freight with a 20% coupon. So for less than $200 in tools, I hope to get this job done without too much difficulty, though certainly there can be obstacles.

I'll try the impact wrench on the axle nut, and if it is not up to the task, the massive 40" breaker bar. I shall use the 3 in 1 hammer drill in hammer only mode to push the axle out of the hub. I hope to avoid all the incredible mess and annoyance of dealing with the grease of disassembly and reassembly of the CV joints, and the time consuming (and sometimes futile efforts) of either popping the outer CV off the axle shaft or having to take apart the inner joint then deal with two incredibly messy CV's just to do the outer boot.

I plan on releasing only the lower control arm from its body mount to effectuate swinging the hub assembly for axle removal. We shall see.

If the rather inexpensive axles wear prematurely, I'll decide on a replacement at that time. Reports of longevity are relatively good. I would also think the risk of having to replace them early is no greater than having the existing CV fail after getting a replacement boot, if it was open for any length of time. In either case, sliding an axle in and out seems like a simpler and quicker process both the first and a second time, than the CV boot replacement.

Also, at the end of the job, I'll have a new giant breaker bar, impact wrench and rotary hammer drill for future use, justified by the savings of doing the job oneself, provided one avoids injury!

The most likely obstacles seem the ease or difficulty of popping the axles out of the transmission, and popping them back in - sometimes it seems this goes smoothly and other times a challenge. However it seems this is often easier to overcome than getting the axle out of the outer CV joint if one does not remove the axle from the hub for a outer boot replacement.

BTW, looking at the new axles, for whatever it is worth, they look well made.

I am going to pop on new rotors and pads while I have everything apart.

I shall try to report back on my experience.