Vacuum Pump / Brake Booster Pump O-ring replacement

[garrett.fell]

Yup. Just like this. Roll the alternator over to the side and the bolt is hiding down there.


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[garrett.fell]

Did you remove your alternator bracket? (Shudder). I've been thinking I may need to change the seal under there but haven't quite reached that conclusion.


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[Johnny_5]

Like you Ive tried everything and still had the smoking at idle. I pulled the trigger and replaced the valve stem seals and guess what....no more smoke. I only changed the valve covers everything else was left alone. I replaced all other gaskets and O-rings prior to the valve stem as I was in denial as well. Spare yourself the headache and pull the trigger!

[SlickNick]

There are a few tips and tricks to fixing the leak issue on the n62 vacuum pump. The biggest issue is knowing how to reinstall it. You have to properly line up the vacuum pump lever with internal slot. Do this by rotating the engine clockwise and lining up the slot in the vertical position. It sounds more complicated than it really is. I caught hell when I did it, until I saw theses videos.

Replacing the vacuum pump seals Part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nRroLFTPJc

Part 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAEz3BFe46o

Part 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bxlo2odZ5N8

[Doru]

About a month or so ago, I changed all the seals, VCG & valve stem seals (vacuum pump seals were also changed).
the car was smoking badly. The spark plugs were not fouled at all when I pulled them out. The car was using about 1qt oil/400 or 500 Km (250-300 miles).
Vacuum leaks exacerbates the oil burning issue, but curing them, don't fix it (N62), just alleviates the problem a bit.

After I did the whole work, the smoking issue stopped right away. And so far, I haven't added any additional oil either.
Another issue I had before, was: the oil level was fluctuating badly when trying to check it. It would show different readings on different days, after the car was sitting, and without moving it. This sounds bizarre, but it's the truth. For the last month, the oil level is consistent (a first for my car - I purchased it used, and with the problem)

If you haven't changed the original seals, as much as you don't want to do them, they're probably at fault. The myth goes they last max 60 k miles, after which they give up the ghost. They have a bad rubber, and a bad inside design, as opposed to the Elring Klinger ones. Don't wait until you start having also valve guides issues. My 0.02

[McDonaldD]

Sorry, replying without reading much of the work history: before you try anything else:
1.) replace the oil filler cap and the o-rings on your dipstick.
2.) an oil change using BMW's new recommendation of 0-40W, which goes against the 5-30W recommendation in the manual.

Based on what I've read of your history:
3.) Vanos solenoids mount through the timing covers and can be replaced without much effort (each solenoid is held in place by one small hex bolt and metal clip, remove the clip and wire - pull the solenoid head outward. I was careful and seated the head of screwdriver on a non-sealing surface of the solenoid and then levered each one out. I have done this many times, helping others and such, and seems to be the easiest way. You only need to get the solenoid to "release" and then it can easily be removed - they're about 6" long.
4 - 11367546379 O-ring - VANOS - Small (Green) Size: 21,29X1,78 $1.85
4 - 11367513222 O-ring - VANOS - Large (Green)Size: 35X4,0 $2.08

4.) Throttle body gaskets

5.) Intake Manifold gaskets - Both gaskets, like ~$12 each but would like resolve your issue by just replacing the intake manifold gaskets

6.) Timing Covers and Valve Covers - The big job - takes 2-3 days - if you know what you're doing

My job eventually encompassed the entire top sealing surfaces of the engine - Both valve cover gaskets, both upper timing cover gaskets, vanos gaskets, throttle body, and the intake manifold (fills with oil). But, because it was convenient, I rebuilt the the coolant system: water pump, thermostat, coolant hoses; replaced the drive belts, belt tensioners, idler pulleys; replaced the spark plugs; and changed the oil. Obviously, a lot of this stuff is unrelated to the blue smoke...but you’d basically have to do the job over again if one of these parts were to fail in a few weeks, months, or years.

The timing cover gaskets cannot be swapped out by themselves because its top rim is part of each valve cover's sealing surface - it needs to be done at the same time as the valve covers.

1 - 11147506424 Gasket Steel - Passenger Side Upper Timing Cover $12.02
1 - 11147506425 Gasket Steel - Driver's Side Upper Timing Cover $12.02
(1 - 11667509080 O-ring - Vacuum Pump - Passenger Side ~$4.52 - you've done this one)

Valve Covers

1 - 11127513195 BMW Gasket set, cylinder head cover ZYL. 5-8
1 - 11127513194 BMW Gasket set, cylinder head cover ZYL. 1-4
4 - 12141748398 O-Ring for Camshaft Position Sensors Size:17X3 ~$1.20
2 - 11127518420 sealing - Eccentric Sensor Gasket ~$5.69
1 - 11128507153 (if leaking - likely, yes) Cover lid - Oil Fill Cap ~$7.78
6 - 11367507729 (Optional - I had 1 fail)O-ring - non-return Valve 9,5X2,5MM $2.92
8 - 11127570219 (Required if cracked/damaged) Spark plug tube $27.00/ea

[McDonaldD]

Also, check the simple things that may resolve the issue:

1. Make sure your intake system is sealed properly: ensure that the intake hose clamps are fitted and tight; all vacuum hoses are seated and unworn; your air filter is clean, unplugged, tear free, and seated properly; and make sure the filter box lid seals.

2. Check your mass airflow sensor for proper operation. If this sensor is reading incorrectly, it could cause a vacuum leak-like situation.

[Doru]

You don't need the oil drain plug washers. They come with every oil filter you buy.

Also, why do you need a new oil filler cap? Is the gasket bad?

Also, if you do the 1st time your oil change, I would suggest getting the screw plug for the oil filter element p/n 11427518083 (The O-ring also comes with a new oil filter)

[Johnny_5]

Originally Posted by ;1022762

I hear ya, but what I don't want to happen is that I do the valve stem seals and then it still smokes. Just trying to make sure I have all of the evidence to support that decision since so much of this smoking crap doesn't look like a traditional valve stem seal issue. As far as I can tell it's the only next step I can try...and it's an expensive one due to the tools required which I don't have. Did you use the AGA tool to do your stems seals?

I was the same way I kept swearing up and down that it wasn't the valve seals and maybe a air leak or CCV's. Even thought about changing the valve cover to the newer style with the external CCV setup! Ive talked to AGA multiple times as well prior to doing it seeing if there was anything else I could do. I did use the AGA Tool for the seals.

[Johnny_5]

Originally Posted by ;1022766

That's great insight, thanks!

No worries!