Need help with front axle replacement

[cheakster]

Hey guys, I'm replacing my front CV axles and need a tip. The LF went fine, but the RF won't go all the way into the differential. There is only a very small area to smack" it into place and the extra long inner shaft is difficult to align. I noticed the retainer ring seems to stick out around the shaft a little more than the one I removed, but I expect that is normal for a new clip compared to the old one that has been compressed. Searches have revealed everything about boot replacement but not whole axles. If anyone has a tip or advice I would LOVE to hear it!
Thanks

These are Cardone reman axles from NAPA- American made- good reputation

[StartX5]

cheakster, i had a difficult time to reassemble the passenger front axle when i rebuilt my CV boot too, it's longer than the driver side. I don't want to damage the right front spring strut so here is what I did (don't worry about alightment):
Supposed that you already removed upper/lower control arms and right tie rod in order to pull the axle out for rebuild CV Boot.

-removed right front caliper (2 bolts)
-unplug brake sensor/ABS cable
-removed right carrier with rotor completely off from right sprint strutt -( by removing this, you have to lose 2 big bolts (see picture below))
and

Now, you have more room to reassemble the right front axle and install it all the way to the differential. When you finish with axle, reassamble what you have removed.

[cheakster]

Thanks for the reply StartX5!
Actually, I followed a thread from this Forum and only removed the axle nuts, calipers, and strut bolts to remove the axles. I've got the axle in, all but about 1.5",but cannot get it to slide/snap in place. Obvious culprits are mismatched splines (doubtful) and the keeper ring (circlip?) which is sticking out past the splines a lot more than the ones I removed (flush with splines). it might just need a good whack to snap the clip in place, but there is only a very very slight ridge on the inner cup to hit it. I don't know if removing more parts as you described will help with that or not. I'm getting frustrated

Thanks again!
Dan

[StartX5]

Dan, the passenger side front axle is longer than the driver side, you don't want to damage your front spring strut when you're trying to pry it in order to reassemble the axle to the differential. Thus, remove the rotors and carrier off from the spring strut is the best choice and that help you to get more room to reassemble axle properly.

It's up to you, if you don't want to remove it from spring strut, you can use up your energy to pry the rotor and carrier outward. Those are heavy and it's very dangerous if you are using floor jack.

When i removed the carrier off from front spring strut, job was very easy.

[cheakster]

Good enough for me! Makes sense, it is very tight on that side and I may just have the axle in a slight bind. Thank you for the help!
Happy Thanksgiving!

Dan

[Adventurer]

I am about to start the job to replace the entire right front axle assembly. I bought the whole assembly from Advance Auto parts for $99 so I didn't see the value in just replacing just the boot.

I will be interested to read what you did to get the axle completely installed. Thanks!

[cheakster]

Both outer boots were badly ripped and I was getting the infamous knocking in turns. I'm at 100k and they were very contaminated. I was shocked to find the Cardone remans at NAPA for $54 (plus $84 core) with 3 year warranty. I've read good things about this company (in Pennsylvania) and figured it to be the best route to take. LF went in very nicely...only removed caliper,strut bolts, and inspection plate. I have air tools and needed NO pullers or special tools! RF is more of a challenge...long shaft is awkward to align and strut is in the way a little... but I will get it! I will have less than $120 in both axles!
Good luck!

[65432N1Teacher]

Cheakster,

I just had the exact same issue as you are describing.

I did the left and right half shafts and ran into the same issue with the right shaft. The shaft was 1/2" away from being flush and would not go in any further. The shaft should not bind unless there is an obvious burr on the shaft end. My issue turned out that the low cost shaft was too large by such a small amount it was only noticed when we measured the spline with a micrometer. I purchased another half shaft from a better known brand and it slid in with no binding. If you force the oversized shaft you can potentially cause serious damage to the transaxle, in my case, I was very lucky when I removed the over sized shaft which actually pulled out the bearing...yesterday was not fun...I hope you day goes better.

[cheakster]

I got that mutha!!!
Guys if you're going to do this, read this thread:http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...0-minutes.html
MEGA THANKS TO AMACMAN!
This is ALL I had to do:
* jack front end up on jacks
* remove wheels
* tap out indents in axle nut
* remove axle nut with impact
- if you have to borrow a compressor and impact/chisel gun, DO IT!
* remove two caliper bolts and zip-tie caliper to strut spring
*start motor and turn wheel (RIGHT for LF axle, LEFT for RF axle)
* remove two strut bolts
* remove inspection plate-6 bolts,2screws, 5 minuts
- this is to enable to tap outward on inner cv cup-axle taps out easily
* used air chisel (w/ pointed chisel) to drive axle out of carrier
- both sides came out VERY easy!...plenty of play in cv's to get it out
* apply bearing grease to new axle splines
* align new axle, turn & push lightly until you feel splines connect
* tap on inner cup "grooves" until axle is all the way in
- left side easy,tap with long screwdriver
- right side- I used impact chisel (set to low impact & with dull-blade chisel) on cup grooves while moving axle around with other hand...when I hit the sweet spot, it went right in. I used a short 2x4 shim under the axle to keep it level as I "tapped".
* I used anti-seize on both outer axle threads
* after starting the strut bolts, I used a short 2x4 and a mallet to pound rotor assembly onto axle until axle nut could be started_ then a few cross- hits followed by tightening the nut...repeat until tight then torque
* used chisel gun to indent axle nuts to lock onto axles
* reinstall calipers and wheels and inspection plate...DONE!
I'll have it aligned next week.Do as others have suggested and check/replace bushings etc. as needed while accessible!
* TEST DRIVE- all clunking and knocking is gone, and steering is much smoother and more firm- my CV's were shot!!!
THIS JOB IS VERY DO-ABLE IF YOU ARE MECHANICAL- SAVES HUGE $$$$

[Adventurer]

I've been searching for some more instructions regarding the complete right shaft/CV replacement which includes both shafts (inner and outer) on the right front passenger side. I've been able to get half of the right shaft off, but there is still half the shaft (I believe this is called the "output shaft") connected to the differential housing. That shaft appears to be held in place by a 6" aluminum housing that is attached to the differential housing with four 13mm bolts. I tried to remove the bolts in an attempt to free up the shaft, but that did nothing. So, I reinstalled the 4 13mm bolts as I'm thinking that the housing should remain connected to the differential housing and there must be away to seperate the output shaft from the differential housing and the 6" housing at the same time.

Has anyone replaced this output shaft? Sure could use some help here.