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  #10711  
Old 03-15-2019, 12:49 AM
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Put an E70 rear wiper arm on the wife’s 4.8iS
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  #10712  
Old 03-15-2019, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Attacking Mid View Post
Yes it is. I tried to find where I read about how the cap equalizes the pressure between the rest of the system and the ET. In my futile search, I read a bunch of other contradictory stuff. In the end, I'm still not sure if it accomplishes anything to run the lower pressure cap. Why did BMW spec such a high pressure cap? Surely it wasn't because it was just a nice round number!?

AM.
To get a captive audience for cooling system parts maybe? Who knows. They stopped this 2 bar bullshit as well. Itís just retarded.

Listen, 2 bars is literally 30psi, with 200 degree coolant in rubber hoses. The system also doesnít run at 30psi. 30 psi is overpressure. Thatís when the cap is supposed to release to save the cooling components. There is no way, our systems need to get that high to blow out.

Like stated before. Iíve been running 1.4 for years now, no side effects. 5 years about. Nothing blowing up. And if some indi decides to take it upon themselves to top off your cooling system, you can bet your ass you will be replacing shit with a 2 bar cap.

Oh and while driving, would you rather see steam coming out the cap, and from your hood, or would you be more impressed that the 2 bar cap held its own, while your plastic radiator side blew out under your car and dumped all its shit.

My radiator actually started leaking while I had the 1.4. Cracked at the plastic side seam. So a failure is still possible. Just not dramatic. I still managed to top off and drive from NJ to Brooklyn.

Lots of people saying how they inspect cooling system every week. Yea thatís nice. Hope those people are also inspecting valley pans, hidden seals and soon to fracture expansion tanks.

For me, the 1.4 is a no brainer. There is some dude that was selling 1.2 bar caps. But the 1.4 is direct from bmw and a fraction of the price. But if there was a 1.2 bar cap from them, I promise I wouldnít flinch when buying it.
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  #10713  
Old 03-15-2019, 10:02 AM
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^I agree. 1.4 sounds more reasonable than 2.0. Glad I happen to have a few e30 caps lying around here. Also need to install my lower temp thermostat before summer gets here. All the cooling system is here in a box so all will get installed then and hopefully the new parts never have to see crazy pressures.
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  #10714  
Old 03-15-2019, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I'm pretty sure the coolant res is in the active loop and already pressurized. Not sure how you would vent into a pressure zone. That said I never saw an overflow tube either
BMW used to use a cold fill line and hot fill line. You would fill to cold and then when the system pressurized it would raise to the hot line. They had a vent nipple with a hose venting to atmosphere above the hot line in the event of an over fill or an over pressure event. I never had any appreciation for it until they did away with it.
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2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log
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  #10715  
Old 03-15-2019, 09:59 PM
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So the point of 2bar is to keep the coolant liquid.

Although coolant certainly has a higher boiling point than water, for water these are the numbers:

At 2 bar, water boils at 120C (248F), just about the max operating temp of X5

At 1.4 bar, water boils at 109.44c (229F)

So the issue is: if the car gets to 110C, it will vent with 1.4 cap. That could be a good thing by giving you the obvious sign that it's running hot but 110 is barely over temp.

I still won't deny the logic of keeping all those mentioned 20 yr old parts at a substantially lower pressure, and the only time I've seen an x5 > 110c was when the ET split wide open and dumped the coolant.


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  #10716  
Old 03-15-2019, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
So the point of 2bar is to keep the coolant liquid.

Although coolant certainly has a higher boiling point than water, for water these are the numbers:

At 2 bar, water boils at 120C (248F), just about the max operating temp of X5

At 1.4 bar, water boils at 109.44c (229F)

So the issue is: if the car gets to 110C, it will vent with 1.4 cap. That could be a good thing by giving you the obvious sign that it's running hot but 110 is barely over temp.

I still won't deny the logic of keeping all those mentioned 20 yr old parts at a substantially lower pressure, and the only time I've seen an x5 > 110c was when the ET split wide open and dumped the coolant.


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Truth. But we run bmw magic blue coolant as well. So that brings the boiling temp up. Even not at equal 50-50 mix, the temp will be decently over max operating temp. I know Iím not losing coolant, so I feel safe with it.
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  #10717  
Old 03-15-2019, 10:32 PM
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Unless you vent it's a good plan.
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  #10718  
Old 03-15-2019, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I was contemplating doing the exact same thing a week ago. I knew it was possible but I was removing the lock actuator to make it freeze resistant and once that is out it's painfully simple to remove the DHC. Good to have the confirmation though


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I didn't remove the lock actuator but rather the lock cylinder the key goes into because it was in the way of the top clip unclipping from the cable support..

I put some T6 on things that moved in there and now the BMW handle feels like a Rolls handle..


On the subject of these cooling systems, why do these BMW engines have to be so scary?

You would think that with all of the wires they put in these cars they could have put in a coolant system pressure sensor to throw a big warning on the dash if it ever drastically decreased or something..


How do these things usually blow?
Do you have time to see steam or any warning before your engine blows a HG or cracks the head if you aren't constantly staring at the temp gauge?
Do you even notice before its too late?
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  #10719  
Old 03-15-2019, 11:47 PM
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The temp gauge on x5 is useless. By the time it ever moves it's too late and usually means a catastrophic failure of some part usually the coolant reservoir.

There is a way to turn the non gauge been into a gauge.

Usually I notice a problem when it's cold outside and I get no cabin heat because the t-stat fails open. Unfortunately if that part faults in summer you might drive a few thousand miles in open loop running rich. I'll like to put scanner on and drive with Realtime temp display at least monthly
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  #10720  
Old 03-16-2019, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastEddie313 View Post
How do these things usually blow?
Do you have time to see steam or any warning before your engine blows a HG or cracks the head if you aren't constantly staring at the temp gauge?
Do you even notice before its too late?
It depends what E53 you are talking about. High level clusters in equipped cars will give you a low coolant warning likely well before the engine over heats. That's how I caught my expansion tank crack hemorrhage before doing any damage to the N62. From what I have read though, lower equipped M54 vehicles weren't equipped with a coolant level sensor or a light in the cluster to notify of low coolant. Pretty dumb if you ask me as EVERY other BMW I have ever seen has a coolant warning light + sensor at the bare minimum.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles)


2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log
Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles)

2010 X5 35d Build 02/10
Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles)
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