What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[andrewwynn]

That speed bump test is a keeper


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[srmmmm]

Originally Posted by bradb

The 2004 E53 with about 138k miles needs some repairs.

Alternator failed so on replacement I am going to replace the OFHG.

The PCV is not working as I am experiencing a huge increase in oil consumption so I am replacing that too. While that is out replacing the intake manifold gasket.

Lastly the fuel pump is on the fritz. Going to get a fuel pressure test first.

If that needs changing is there anything else anyone can suggest? The lifetime fuel filter maybe?

Thanks in advance.

Brad

Perhaps this list of my maintenance/repairs will help.
On a regular basis:

> Rotate tires, inspect pads & Rotors, CV boots, general look over every 5000 miles
> Oil / Filter change every 8000 miles
> Brake fluid flush every 30,000 miles
> CV Boot replacement generally every 75,000 miles
> Replace belts and clean CCV every 100,000 miles
> Replace differential and transfer case fluid every 100,000 miles
> Replace sparkplugs every 120,000 miles
> Replace expansion tank, coolant and hoses every 150,000 miles
> Replace brake pads every 163,000 miles (Akebono ceramics)
> Replace rotors-once at 63,000 miles (315,000 miles on current Brembos)
> Automatic transmission fluid – leave it alone in the GM 5L40-E

My unplanned repairs have included:

> Front axles at 60,000 miles (Prior owner didn't maintain CV boots)
> FSR at 78,000 miles
> Two sparkplug coils and accessory belt tensioner at 124,000 miles
> Alternator at 126,000 miles
> Front driveshaft and transfer case at 136,000 (used a salvage TC for cost savings)
> FSR (again) at 159,000 miles
> Thermostat and OFHG at 176,000 miles
> Front tension struts and power steering pressure hose at 192,000 miles
> Rear differential seal at 200,000 miles
> Secondary air pump at 224,000 miles
> Rear suspension bushings and upper control arms at 242,000 miles
> Thermostat (again) at 245,000 miles - at least it was warranty this time
> Steering column double U-Joint shaft at 245,000 miles
> Valve cover gasket at 245,000 miles
> Both fuel tank sending units, fuel pump and canister at 245,000 miles
> Aux fan when the harness got chewed up in the mechanical fan and shorted out at 259,000 miles
> Pre-cat O2 sensors at 260,400 miles
> Water pump at 262,800 miles
> DISA Valve and MAF at 264,000 miles
> Thermostat (again) at 299,000 miles (don’t know what’s going on with these)
> Driver door handle carrier again at 310,600 miles (thought they had these fixed finally)
> Intermediate accessory belt pulley and oil level sensor at 310,600 miles
> Valve cover (not just the gasket) and OFHG at 317,000 miles
> All spark plug coils, MAF and fuel filter at 342,400 miles
> Third FSR at 347,000 miles
> Fourth FSR & harness connector at 357,000 miles – warranty this time
> Engine mounts and rear driveshaft guibo at 357,000 miles
> MAF, Thermostat (again!!!), All front CV boots 361,700 miles
> Pre-cat O2 sensor (Bank #1) at 366,000 miles
> Secondary air pump at 368,000 miles (prior was a used one off eBay)
> Air injection check valve at 377,000 miles
> Front brake tension struts at 378,000 miles


All in all, except for the front driveshaft job that cost $4200, I have really been happy with the vehicle. It doesn't get babied, but I do monitor and maintain it. I think a lot of my good fortune is due to four things: I live in Texas with short winters so I don't have a lot of the CCV condensation problems, my daily commute is 60 miles so the engine oil always reaches full operating temperature, I run the "M" series viscosity engine oil from May through September when I my driving includes 3000 miles of towing a 1400 pound Waverunner and trailer, and I stick with Shell gasoline.

I do believe I’ve figured out what goes on with the thermostat failures. Each one occurred within days of an extended idling period (3-4 hours) while commuting home at a crawl during very cold, icy weather. Under these conditions, every bit of engine heat was consumed trying to keep the windshield clear and the interior warm, so the engine thermostat would have been powered to stay closed or nearly closed most of the time. I suspect a higher current flow to the thermostat for that amount of time simply “burned it up”.


2002 X5 3.0 378,900 miles
2014 428i 68,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration

[///Monster123]

Technically not today....

Saturday, I rolled into Grandma's driveway and she was outside on the front porch. So I rolled down the rear window so that my kids could wave at her. Roll the window back up and POP! The window doesn't move. My wife and my mother in law look at me like I've broken the window, why can't I make it go up? I can't, it's broken. 1 hour drive home with the wind blowing in my toddler's faces wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.

Sunday, I know there is an E53 that is pretty fresh at the local pull your own parts yard so I go check it out at 8AM. 3 of the window regulators have already been removed, destroyed, and laying on the ground next to this X5. However the door is closed and locked for the door that I need. I purposely brought my power drill and some extra wire for this. I energized the vehicle with my Ryobi drill battery long enough to unlock the door and then get it opened. I popped the panel off and there was the regulator that I needed. pulled the plug off the regulator motor and used my drill battery trick again to power the window down so that I can line the bolt up with the window in the regulator track. 4 quick zaps from the 8 and 10 mm in my drill and out comes the regulator.

Install was just as easy. I did notice some cracking in the plastic on the freshly installed regulator. This has me a little concerned that my fix may be temporary. Who knows it might last a few years and at $26 it isn't much of a gamble. I will probably be pulling a spare regular from the next junked X5 that I come across.

[Effduration]

Nice.. I have 2 E53’s which mean 8 windows with possible failed regulators. I have a box of window spares including at least one regulator for each door and 6-8 of the plastic clips which break as often as the regulators do. I have fixed these windows so often I am thinking of keeping a set of clips and Tools to remove The door panel In the truck for on-the-road repairs.

[andrewwynn]

Some have reenforced the plastic with JB weld

[///Monster123]

Originally Posted by Effduration

Nice.. I have 2 E53’s which mean 8 windows with possible failed regulators. I have a box of window spares including at least one regulator for each door and 6-8 of the plastic clips which break as often as the regulators do. I have fixed these windows so often I am thinking of keeping a set of clips and Tools to remove The door panel In the truck for on-the-road repairs.

haha... This thought has occurred to me as well.

[///Monster123]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Some have reenforced the plastic with JB weld

I was out of epoxy but I did manage to squirt a little super glue into the crack. It'll probably do nothing since it isn't fixtured but I made a small effort.

[bcredliner]

I have replaced only one window regulator since buying new, driver's side. I have done nothing special to extend lifecycles though with Texas heat the air-conditioning is almost always in use.

[bradb]

Originally Posted by srmmmm

Perhaps this list of my maintenance/repairs will help.
On a regular basis:

> Rotate tires, inspect pads & Rotors, CV boots, general look over every 5000 miles
> Oil / Filter change every 8000 miles
> Brake fluid flush every 30,000 miles
> CV Boot replacement generally every 75,000 miles
> Replace belts and clean CCV every 100,000 miles
> Replace differential and transfer case fluid every 100,000 miles
> Replace sparkplugs every 120,000 miles
> Replace expansion tank, coolant and hoses every 150,000 miles
> Replace brake pads every 163,000 miles (Akebono ceramics)
> Replace rotors-once at 63,000 miles (315,000 miles on current Brembos)
> Automatic transmission fluid – leave it alone in the GM 5L40-E

My unplanned repairs have included:

> Front axles at 60,000 miles (Prior owner didn't maintain CV boots)
> FSR at 78,000 miles
> Two sparkplug coils and accessory belt tensioner at 124,000 miles
> Alternator at 126,000 miles
> Front driveshaft and transfer case at 136,000 (used a salvage TC for cost savings)
> FSR (again) at 159,000 miles
> Thermostat and OFHG at 176,000 miles
> Front tension struts and power steering pressure hose at 192,000 miles
> Rear differential seal at 200,000 miles
> Secondary air pump at 224,000 miles
> Rear suspension bushings and upper control arms at 242,000 miles
> Thermostat (again) at 245,000 miles - at least it was warranty this time
> Steering column double U-Joint shaft at 245,000 miles
> Valve cover gasket at 245,000 miles
> Both fuel tank sending units, fuel pump and canister at 245,000 miles
> Aux fan when the harness got chewed up in the mechanical fan and shorted out at 259,000 miles
> Pre-cat O2 sensors at 260,400 miles
> Water pump at 262,800 miles
> DISA Valve and MAF at 264,000 miles
> Thermostat (again) at 299,000 miles (don’t know what’s going on with these)
> Driver door handle carrier again at 310,600 miles (thought they had these fixed finally)
> Intermediate accessory belt pulley and oil level sensor at 310,600 miles
> Valve cover (not just the gasket) and OFHG at 317,000 miles
> All spark plug coils, MAF and fuel filter at 342,400 miles
> Third FSR at 347,000 miles
> Fourth FSR & harness connector at 357,000 miles – warranty this time
> Engine mounts and rear driveshaft guibo at 357,000 miles
> MAF, Thermostat (again!!!), All front CV boots 361,700 miles
> Pre-cat O2 sensor (Bank #1) at 366,000 miles
> Secondary air pump at 368,000 miles (prior was a used one off eBay)
> Air injection check valve at 377,000 miles
> Front brake tension struts at 378,000 miles


All in all, except for the front driveshaft job that cost $4200, I have really been happy with the vehicle. It doesn't get babied, but I do monitor and maintain it. I think a lot of my good fortune is due to four things: I live in Texas with short winters so I don't have a lot of the CCV condensation problems, my daily commute is 60 miles so the engine oil always reaches full operating temperature, I run the "M" series viscosity engine oil from May through September when I my driving includes 3000 miles of towing a 1400 pound Waverunner and trailer, and I stick with Shell gasoline.

I do believe I’ve figured out what goes on with the thermostat failures. Each one occurred within days of an extended idling period (3-4 hours) while commuting home at a crawl during very cold, icy weather. Under these conditions, every bit of engine heat was consumed trying to keep the windshield clear and the interior warm, so the engine thermostat would have been powered to stay closed or nearly closed most of the time. I suspect a higher current flow to the thermostat for that amount of time simply “burned it up”.

Thanks for the amazing repair detail.

I noticed a failing rubber boot up front and have done nothing about it in the 15k miles I have driven. Have to put that closer to the top of the list.

The alternator has been replaced. Now I can at least get around as this E53 one of my favorites to be the loose nut behind the wheel.

I am about to perform a fuel pressure test as its experiencing a similar issue I have had in two other period BMW E39's. I have never done this test before but appears to be fairly straight forward. Any tips appreciated. I have a new OEM pump on hand to replace it with. If its anything like the E39 that has a new pump this M54 will run very nicely indeed.

Thanks again

Brad

[Bdc101]

Originally Posted by Effduration

Nice.. I have 2 E53’s which mean 8 windows with possible failed regulators. I have a box of window spares including at least one regulator for each door and 6-8 of the plastic clips which break as often as the regulators do. I have fixed these windows so often I am thinking of keeping a set of clips and Tools to remove The door panel In the truck for on-the-road repairs.

Funny you mention that, because when we left for a week-long camping trip last week, as we got on the highway towing the trailer, I asked my better half to roll down her window to adjust the towing mirror. Guess what didn't come back up.



In a feat of unqualified success, I had the door taken apart and the window pulled back up in less than ten minutes in a parking lot! Disaster averted... but yes I may invest in some more spares so I can do field repairs. We almost only use this vehicle for towing during camping season.