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^If you proactively replace the window clips/sliders... the regulators can list pretty much indefinitely. It's usually the torque being applied in the wrong direction from broken components that breaks the pulleys or cables on the regulators. I don't know for sure, I'm pretty sure I'm still on factory regulators on 3 of 4 doors. I also don't usually see window motor failure on BMW's. Happens, but not often. The one regulator I had to replace I swapped the original motor onto a used regulator I bought for ~$30, threw on new clips/sliders, and a couple zip ties for good measure. Doubt I'll have to do the job again.
^But now that I've said that... LOL, it will break tomorrow.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles) 2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles) 2010 X5 35d Build 02/10 Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles) |
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Quote:
You need a lotto ticket
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2004 BMW X5 4.8is [Black Sapphire] / [Black Nappa] [Nav] [DSP] [Style 87] 2003 BMW 540i [Sterling Gray / Gray] [Msport] [Mods from A-Z] [Two-tone Interior] |
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Quote:
I know, right? Very glad I had replace them. The clips on the front regulator essentially just fell out as soon as I had removed the window screws. Both rear clips were just hanging on by a tread...plastic cracked every which ways!
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2004 X5 3.0i Born 02/04 Delivered 03/04 |
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Just a wash today after the 700 mile run down to Atlanta for the Petit Le Mans race and then home back through Helen, GA for an Oktoberfest night and visiting Tallulah Falls and Toccoa Falls and the Georgia mountains.
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Digital Competition Systems The older I get... The faster I was... No Fear |
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Just replaced broken hood latch cable. My cable broke at the handle inside the car, as they often do. I had to manually unlatch hood by removing one grille, and moving a plastic shield (after pulling screws and plastic rivets out)..pretty challenging. the process is documented elsewhere, but the best tool is a long allen wrench with a short right angle in it. insert the allen key into a small nut driver with right angle pointing up and finds the cable mechanism to push on..
As for the cable replacement, remove screws on handle and dead pedal. To remove dead pedal (not well documented for E53 and different than E46 and E39) , pry up flat foot panel with small screwdriver and remove 2 bolts underneath. Then remove broken cable from inside car after pushing in rubber grommet at firewall. Insert new cable thru firewall from inside car and connect in engine bay junction box. Re-assemble handle and dead pedal..Good to go. |
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New suspension bits are on. Alignment fun starts tomorrow!
All lined up like pretty little ladies..Out with the 15 yr old, 140k mile parts that have served well.. Annnd the pretty new part pr0n:Buuut, I know what you're here for... Adjustable bits!
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Nice! Set that rear camber to -1 degree
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Digital Competition Systems The older I get... The faster I was... No Fear |
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