What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[LA02MAX]

Originally Posted by Henn28

I adjusted my parking brake yesterday and was thinking about how well the x has been running, and how much fun it’s been. Bad call as the X5 gods heard and visited their wrath on me. Took the car to get dog food and got the dreaded “ding”, with a low coolant message. The bane of my X existence.

There were a couple things that I did, or didn’t do during my motor swap that the little voice in the back of my head told me I might regret. Im batting 1000 so far on that. A quick look under the hood confirmed what my gut was telling me, the heater hose running from the aux pump to the rear coolant manifold had blown. The hose snakes down the the bottom of the motor (no idea why) and back up to the manifold. It has a metal section swedged in this area too, and it looks like the hose came loose of the zip ties I used to keep it anchored and got too close to the steering rack and wore thru. I think it got loose and the column wore a hole in it.

I inspected this hose when I put the new motor in and it looked fine, so I re used it. However, whatever bracket BMW used to secure it on its crazy path under the motor was long gone. Zip ties to the rescue. Clearly not my finest hour.

She didn’t get hot and I’m waiting on parts now. I’ll do the double joint at the same time. My problem is that I can’t figure out the routing around the rack, or the exhaust manifold, which it has to bend around at the back of the motor on its way to the manifold. Nor do I know how BMW secured this coolant line originally.

Good times. Back on the road next week hopefully.

I ran into my first problem since all my work also. Getting on the interstate yesterday, I smelled gas and thought "shit....something came loose" but I kept going since I only had 2 miles to get off the interstate again. Then I noticed my fuel gauge moving at a rapid pace.....LOL. Pulled off at a gas station and sure enough, the quick connect on the fuel rail hose had come loose. I know it clicked when I installed it, but lesson learned: ALWAYS give those quick connect hoses a tug to ensure they're clicked in properly. I lost 1/4 tank of fuel alllll in my engine bay. I did my best to clean it up and removed the hood insulation to clean that separately, but my garage will smell like fuel for weeks

Regarding your hose retention, have you checked realoem diagrams? Sometimes they're hard to figure out, but a bit of studying those diagrams normally leads to an answer.

[Bdc101]

Originally Posted by LA02MAX

I ran into my first problem since all my work also. Getting on the interstate yesterday, I smelled gas and thought "shit....something came loose" but I kept going since I only had 2 miles to get off the interstate again. Then I noticed my fuel gauge moving at a rapid pace.....LOL. Pulled off at a gas station and sure enough, the quick connect on the fuel rail hose had come loose. I know it clicked when I installed it, but lesson learned: ALWAYS give those quick connect hoses a tug to ensure they're clicked in properly. I lost 1/4 tank of fuel alllll in my engine bay. I did my best to clean it up and removed the hood insulation to clean that separately, but my garage will smell like fuel for weeks

Holy smokes man... sounds like you are lucky to have a car still --or maybe even still be alive.

[LA02MAX]

Originally Posted by Bdc101

Holy smokes man... sounds like you are lucky to have a car still --or maybe even still be alive.

Yeah, fuel vapors and hot exhaust...not a good combo. Lesson learned, though! Don't trust the quick connect click!

[Henn28]

Originally Posted by Bdc101

Holy smokes man... sounds like you are lucky to have a car still --or maybe even still be alive.

No kidding! Glad that didn’t turn out worse.

I have to chuckle at my coolant woes sometimes. I posted recently avout not wanting to yank the heater hoses to r and r my double joint, because I was still enjoying a clean motor and engine bay. The X5 muses definitely heard that and made sure a heater hose blew the next time I drove it.

The hose is part number 11537505949, and real OEM doesn’t show any routing or clamps, brackets etc. for the thing.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=64_1064

Im going to call the local Indy guy I use and pick his brains. He’s into diesel BMWs now for his personal toys, but went through an extend M62 “phase” as he puts it.

[LA02MAX]

Originally Posted by Henn28

No kidding! Glad that didn’t turn out worse.

I have to chuckle at my coolant woes sometimes. I posted recently avout not wanting to yank the heater hoses to r and r my double joint, because I was still enjoying a clean motor and engine bay. The X5 muses definitely heard that and made sure a heater hose blew the next time I drove it.

The hose is part number 11537505949, and real OEM doesn’t show any routing or clamps, brackets etc. for the thing.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=64_1064

Im going to call the local Indy guy I use and pick his brains. He’s into diesel BMWs now for his personal toys, but went through an extend M62 “phase” as he puts it.

Does your car have Number 9 on the diagram? It should be installed on a small threaded stud on the firewall that points toward the engine. My 4.8is doesn't have the hose that you need; it looks like they simplified these hoses quite a bit on the N62. However, mine still has that triple hose carrier, and only 2 spots are used.

[Henn28]

Originally Posted by LA02MAX

Does your car have Number 9 on the diagram? It should be installed on a small threaded stud on the firewall that points toward the engine. My 4.8is doesn't have the hose that you need; it looks like they simplified these hoses quite a bit on the N62. However, mine still has that triple hose carrier, and only 2 spots are used.

It does have number 9, or did until it shattered some years ago. Now I’ve got the three upper hoses (to/from the firewall and valve/reservoir) cleverly zip tied to keep them secure. I ordered a new number 9 bracket but it isn’t available any longer. I need to get my eBay on for some misc brackets, and other out of production stuff.

The hose in question that blew on my car is number 12 and I couldn’t see how it could be routed securely, or where a hose clamp could go without drilling into the body or frame. Which I may have to do. It passes by the steering rack upright portion where the shaft connects, but on which side I don’t know. I routed it outboard, but clearly that didn’t work. Inboard however seems to take the rubber hose section very close to the exhaust manifold at the back of the motor.

[StephenVA]

Pulled the alternator out of the 4.8is as it be dead.

Tip for anyone else doing this project. Pull the fan shroud FIRST it will save your arms and allow the unit to come right out.

Dead at 63K Probably from lack of daily driving

[Bdc101]

I replaced my rear brake pads and put a new wear sensor in. However, the light on the dash is still lit up, and it dings at me to check my brake linings.



After doing a search, it looks like on E70s you have to reset some setting on the dash, but for the E53 do I need to do anything to reset the light? Or should I just go and check the connections on the wear sensor?

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by Bdc101

I replaced my rear brake pads and put a new wear sensor in. However, the light on the dash is still lit up, and it dings at me to check my brake linings.



After doing a search, it looks like on E70s you have to reset some setting on the dash, but for the E53 do I need to do anything to reset the light? Or should I just go and check the connections on the wear sensor?

e53 should just reset. Check the connections

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by Bdc101

I replaced my rear brake pads and put a new wear sensor in. However, the light on the dash is still lit up, and it dings at me to check my brake linings.

After doing a search, it looks like on E70s you have to reset some setting on the dash, but for the E53 do I need to do anything to reset the light? Or should I just go and check the connections on the wear sensor?

If the sensor lines are intact the light should go out when you turn ignition to pos. 1 and wait 30 seconds.