What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[Themoog]

I thought I would replace the steering uj shaft on my rhd V8 as there is a little bit of knocking when rocking the steering wheel right to left rapidly.
Jacked up, under trays removed, lower shaft bolt removed. Up top I removed the top bolt, pushed the steering column up to release the shaft only to realise that mine has a square location whereas the one I bought has a hex location..
Should have done the top bolt first to save me all the agro. At least I had a new bulkhead bearing to swap so I did that and it's actually reduced the knocking somewhat.
I have the lower part of the steering column that fits the hex as well so I could in theory replace the lot but I think that's a bit more involved so I'll save it for another day.

[Effduration]

2005 X5 3.0 with 175k miles. I have owned it 5yrs or so and it has lived its whole life in rusty New England.

-replace rotted front subframe*
-oil pan - remove, clean, re-gasket
-new steering rack
-new axles

*in pics below see collapsed area under right side sway bar bushing

X5 was on a 2-post lift. I took my time and it took 6 or 7 days.

Prior to this, the power steering was still groaning even after changing pump, reservoir, and 3of 4 (4 of 5?) PS hoses. After the rebuilt steering rack...it sounds and feels great now

had to cut off the nuts to the tie rod ends.

axles came out without a problem..but they have been out before. front Diff and front drive shaft also came out without a problem.

Used an engine support bar to hold engine while I removed the subframe. Replaced the engine mounts.

Discovered I have a leaking selector shaft seal..even though it was replaced 4 yrs ago.

Need to get it aligned, but otherwise it is running and driving well after all this work.

[andrewwynn]

Great to see solid refresh that will keep great car going and going.


–awr–

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[Effduration]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Great to see solid refresh that will keep great car going and going.

Andrew I was also planning to replace both rear wheel bearings using your DIY (hopefully without removing suspension or exhaust), But I encountered a seized axle nut and slowly backed away..

I am going to have a welder friend remove them and then I will see how bad it all is.

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by Effduration

Andrew I was also planning to replace both rear wheel bearings using your DIY (hopefully without removing suspension or exhaust), But I encountered a seized axle nut and slowly backed away..



I am going to have a welder friend remove them and then I will see how bad it all is.

Sweet Baby Jesus, is the nut even in that picture?

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[andrewwynn]

I would just remove the four hub bolts and pull the axle out with the hub.

Replace the outer cv joint or full axle. No point in wasting time: effort trying to pull the axle out of that hub they are the same object now.


–awr–

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[Effduration]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I would just remove the four hub bolts and pull the axle out with the hub.

Replace the outer cv joint or full axle. No point in wasting time: effort trying to pull the axle out of that hub they are the same object now.

Do you mean pull the whole knuckle or wheel assembly out as a unit?...Like the pic below but with axle attached? Would you reuse the knuckle? or source a decent used one and replace bearings? I do see a bunch of apparently rust-free rear knuckles on ebay at fair prices..

I am not sure what "four hub bolts" you are referring to...the bolts that connect to the upper and lower suspension? You don't mean the four bolts that hold the bearing...no access..

[andrewwynn]

I did mean the four that hold the bearing but I forgot you pull the axle in a bit to get to those!

So: plan B is ugly I would probably cut the axle "nut" off and see if by some miracle you can pull the hub off the axle with a slide hammer.

Save that, I'd maybe saw the hub off either angle grinder or band saw (sawzall). If can cut back far enough, then should be able to oush what's left of the spline out of the hub.

Your Welder friend can cut off the axle nut with oxy and possibly use same for the hub.

The bolts that hold the hub/bearing can but cut out from the outside as well so if it looks hopeless to get the axle out, cut 1/4 of the hub off to get clear view of the thread side of the bolts and cut the bolts (or bearing flange).

I forget if the bearing flange is steel or aluminum but you can cut right down the center of the bolt with minimal risk to the knuckle since that side is just a hole and the threads will get replaced with new bearing.

I realize i switched up hub and bearing a bit because when assembled it's one part.

You could try to cut a slot in the tips of the bearing bolts and use a very big impact screwdriver bit. Like the og impact screwdriver you hit with a hammer.

(After cutting part of the hub away for access).

The lug holes do line up that's how i snug the bolts when i reassemble. Cut slots in the tip of the bolts and use a long flat screwdriver bit turning CCW.


–awr–

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[wpoll]

FWIW (although I doubt it helps) those four bearing bolts are accessible with the axle in place... TIS says this, I've done it and your own thread even shows this, Andrew.

[Effduration]

Originally Posted by wpoll

FWIW (although I doubt it helps) those four bearing bolts are accessible with the axle in place... TIS says this, I've done it and your own thread even shows this, Andrew.

"Axles in place"? Do you mean released from the hub? Meaning not in the spline?

I haven't read TIS, but Andrew's wheel bearing DIY indicated that you have to push the hub end of the axles inward toward the rear diff to get enough clearance with with wobble extensions and sockets to access the 4 e-torx bolt with enough torque.. Are you saying something different?

In my case, and I haven't tried yet, the axles look pretty fused in the splines. So pushing them in could require a ton (several actually) of effort. I might get lucky, its possible the 12 point nut corroded, but prevent moisture from getting into the splines.

A guy can dream can't he?