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  #2171  
Old 06-06-2013, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerminatorX5 View Post
i had a haircrack at the seam, not big enough for level to go down but big enough to leave residue... ordered tank online (OE, $45 delivered), replaced in few minutes... drove with haircrack for a week, about 300 miles total...
Lucky, mine was leaking right from the corner of the seam and it was constant slow leak so i didnt wanna risk it,

my price here in the lower mainland bc is around 60
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-x-pipe/resonator delete
-UV coat windshield
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-dynavin N6
-all front and rear end suspension parts and both front cv shafts replaced
-OEM hitch

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  #2172  
Old 06-06-2013, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by TwinTurboGTR View Post
So lets see... Got a Laundry list done today...

2ide of the plastic tray. Looks suh-weet and... no more cursing at the CD changer when I hit a tiny bump and my beats skip.
hey how's the cv boot? I need to do it on passenger side. and my indy quoted 250 if axel comes off. would i be able to do it on my own without air tools?
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  #2173  
Old 06-06-2013, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ake53 View Post
hey how's the cv boot? I need to do it on passenger side. and my indy quoted 250 if axel comes off. would i be able to do it on my own without air tools?

Alex do you need to do just outer boot or inner and outer (usually outer only shows cracks)

Just did my outer boots and left axle attached to inboard driveshaft, but you have to press it out of the hub first and disconnect the strut 2 bolts.

Its definitely DIY-able without air tools, I used none, just make sure you have 36mm 12pt for axle nut, 22mm for strut bolts, $8.99 CV boot pliers from advance auto parts (for ear type clamps, essential part!), a 2 foot breaker bar + the handle from your jack as a cheater bar (for undoing axle nut), and a 3-4 lb mini sledge, since you will have to literally whack the outer joint off the cv axle to replace the boot.

Look up the thread "CV boot replaced in 30 minutes" I followed that process. Get a GKN Loebro boot kit from Pelican for $13 and it includes a new axle nut, I disassembled my joint when it was off as well, cleaned out all old grease and replaced with all new grease.
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  #2174  
Old 06-06-2013, 10:35 AM
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Changed the Final Stage Resistor. Fan was a little erratic over the winter and I ordered the replacement FSR months ago. We had a heat wave this past weekend and the fan speed wouldn't change much at all in auto or manual mode. Hating being hot trumped my laziness so finally did it! Took about an hour and a half and everything works great now.

Thanks to Xoutpost for the DIY.
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  #2175  
Old 06-06-2013, 10:38 AM
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New Bosch rear wiper blade & replaced the 20mm spacers with 30mm spacers last night. She's in need of a bath.

Pretty pissed my vanity plate submission was already taken so I have to figure out what I want to get instead now.

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  #2176  
Old 06-06-2013, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
Alex do you need to do just outer boot or inner and outer (usually outer only shows cracks)

Outer. the one that is seen under the car.
Just did my outer boots and left axle attached to inboard driveshaft, but you have to press it out of the hub first and disconnect the strut 2 bolts.

Its definitely DIY-able without air tools, I used none, just make sure you have 36mm 12pt for axle nut, 22mm for strut bolts, $8.99 CV boot pliers from advance auto parts (for ear type clamps, essential part!), a 2 foot breaker bar + the handle from your jack as a cheater bar (for undoing axle nut), and a 3-4 lb mini sledge, since you will have to literally whack the outer joint off the cv axle to replace the boot.

should have 36mm 12 point
22mm- check!
cv boot pliers- should have, if they look like this
breaker bar- welded ratchet. love my cheater pipe bar (always hidden in the trunk for protection)
5lb sledge hammer I also have.
And I have jack stands, so i'll raise up both sides and do them at once.


Look up the thread "CV boot replaced in 30 minutes" I followed that process. Get a GKN Loebro boot kit from Pelican for $13 and it includes a new axle nut, I disassembled my joint when it was off as well, cleaned out all old grease and replaced with all new grease

I over paid but got the whole kit...dealer wanted almost 50 i said no and bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/251274775819...84.m1497.l2649

that gkn brand made in italy.
Thanks!

.
THANKS!
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  #2177  
Old 06-06-2013, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ake53 View Post
THANKS!
CV Boot pliers look like this:



Oh yeah and you'll need a 22mm or 7/8" wrench/socket to hold the bolt on the strut while you turn the nut as well.

I pushed the axle in and out of the hub with a hube puller/flange which had a threaded rod that pushed the center stub of the axle, came in a free rental set I got from Pep Boys. That seems to be people's biggest problem is pushing the axle out of the hub.

Btw that's what I meant GKN kit, I got the same kit excellent OEM quality for half the price of dealer. That is our OE equipment, just not in a BMW box.

Torque for strut nuts 185 ft lbs
Torque for axle nut 330 ft lbs

Oh yeah you might have to disconnect the ABS sensor to get to the strut bolts, 5mm hex I believe, and 16mm bolts that hold the caliper on (I took mine off since I was doing my wheel bearings not sure if you have enough room to leave caliper on rotor)

If you need anything shoot me a pm i'm fairly familiar with the process now
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  #2178  
Old 06-06-2013, 09:40 PM
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Wow thanks! will be attempting this on the week end when it stops raining.
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  #2179  
Old 06-06-2013, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by davintosh View Post
Finished up replacing the left rear wheel bearing, parking brake shoes, integral link, ball joint, control arm, guiding suspension link, and brake disk backer plate. Quite a job, but my son & I got this side done in about half the time it took us to do the right side.

Tomorrow it gets a new pair of tires and an alignment.
Got it back from the tire & alignment shop, and it drives SO NICE! The wife is gonna love it. She's spoiled, and she knows it.
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  #2180  
Old 06-06-2013, 11:18 PM
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In the past two weeks: repaired cluster pixels, replaced NAV and head units so that stereo works, replaced brake sensors, replaced trans pan gasket and filter, replaced secondary air pump lines, repaired melted brake housing, replaced fog light (twice), and given this thing several solid detailing sessions.

On tap: turn brake rotors and treat for squeaking, possibly replace VCG, replace plugs, clean ICV, TB and MAF, and replace breather valve to clear p0443. Oh, and secure coding to eliminate 'self leveling inactive' since air suspension has been removed.
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