Lower Control Arm + - Page 4

mobilejo · #31 09-17-2011, 05:09 AM

For a mechanic, with the right tools, it should be a 30 min per side job, with most time being for splitting the balljoint as you cannot say how easy/hard thats gonna be. The rest of the job is a cinch!

Now if you are talking about the tension struts (can't recall whether they call them upper or lower) and that 2.5 hrs includes changing the actual ball joint too (which is a separate part) then 2.5 hours is not unbelievable if its as badly corroded into the hub as some of them get and the hub needs to come off to get it out. Its still high for a 'book' time though, 2.5 would be a worst case scenario, not a norm.

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Sundayjumper · #32 09-17-2011, 06:13 AM

What he said... 2.5hrs is probably based on removing the hub in order to get the ball joint in a press.

Rick27 · #33 09-17-2011, 12:23 PM

Thanks guys. I figured I'd get the ball joints done as well since I need to replace the control arms, but....maybe not since I need to keep the cost down at the moment.

In regard to "control arm" vs. "tension struts", I think I'm still a little confused. Sorry for the mechanical ignorance. Is the tension strut the rear arm and the control arm the front? That's what I had originally thought. One arm has the ball joint facing upward (which I thought was the rear control arm, some call it "tension strut") and the other, the ball joint faces down (which I thought was the front control arm). I could very well be wrong.

mobilejo · #34 09-17-2011, 01:17 PM

The TS has the ball joint that faces down, it's the one with the separate ball joint.

BMW call the other arm a wishbone on their parts list. Folk tend to call either or both control arms, wishbones, or whatever else they feel like.

My 2c is not to change the TS without changing the ball joint. I did and it made only a slight improvement. I did the bj later in the week and also the 'wishbone' and then it felt totally different and solid again, and my wishbones showed no sign of play at all, I just did them as they were the original wishbones after 110k

Rick27 · #35 09-17-2011, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobilejo

The TS has the ball joint that faces down, it's the one with the separate ball joint.

BMW call the other arm a wishbone on their parts list. Folk tend to call either or both control arms, wishbones, or whatever else they feel like.

My 2c is not to change the TS without changing the ball joint. I did and it made only a slight improvement. I did the bj later in the week and also the 'wishbone' and then it felt totally different and solid again, and my wishbones showed no sign of play at all, I just did them as they were the original wishbones after 110k

Thank you!

Rick27 · #36 10-06-2011, 05:25 PM

Well....tension struts replaced, ball joints replaced.........shimmy in wheel persists.

Unhappy.

Guy at the tire place is going on vacation next week, so upon his return that following Monday, he's going to call Continental to replace the four tires. Or as he said to me, "ask what the procedure is."

Quite frankly, I don't want hear anything but, "Rick, your 4 new tires are ordered."

mobilejo · #37 10-06-2011, 06:13 PM

If you are chasing a shimmy, I would suggest doing both control arms (i.e. tension strut and the 'other' one) and tie rod ends all at once - that way you have changed all bushes and ball joints in the front.

I say this because none of my ball joints or bushes showed signs of play, but once off, you could see the ball joints were gone - they wiggled freely.

I did mine in stages - tension strut first - still not right, other control arm - still not right, tie rod ends - finally felt right up front. I should have just had the whole lot done in one go for ease.

1stE53 · #38 10-06-2011, 06:32 PM

I would fight the tire issue first, my neighbor had same issue after purchasing new tires for his F150. Long story short, his tires would only stay balanced for about 50 miles then shake like hell. Multiple trips and fights later, he has new set on his truck. No issues.

Rick27 · #39 10-07-2011, 10:17 AM

Thanks mobilejo.

I'm actually going the tire route at the moment, like 1stE53 mentioned. I have a feeling that's where the issue is. My tension strut bushings were a little loose, so it's good to get them done, but my mechanic told me that he could have changed the bushings without getting new struts, which BMW told me couldn't be done because the ts's come with the bushings pressed in. They do indeed come that way, but my guy told me he could have gotten the old bushing out and pressed in the news ones. Word to the wise. I apparently am not so wise.

1stE53 · #40 10-07-2011, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick27

Thanks mobilejo.

I'm actually going the tire route at the moment, like 1stE53 mentioned. I have a feeling that's where the issue is. My tension strut bushings were a little loose, so it's good to get them done, but my mechanic told me that he could have changed the bushings without getting new struts, which BMW told me couldn't be done because the ts's come with the bushings pressed in. They do indeed come that way, but my guy told me he could have gotten the old bushing out and pressed in the news ones. Word to the wise. I apparently am not so wise.

Yes, I was told the same thing by an indi-shop. The BMW dealership is who actually told me they can press new ones in. I have two bushings in my garage, but am looking for someone who won't charge me the price of new control arms to change the bushings.

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