Front LCAs (forward position)...

[cfmistry]

Hi all,

I've been reading many threads about freshing up my front suspension (it is getting a little sloppy and making noise), and I'm about to buy the front LCAs (rear position - #7 joint and arm) and sway bar end links. I noticed very few people have replaced the forward position LCAs, (#6) is this because these don't wear out as quickly? Replacing them would set me back another $400-500 (no Febi parts available so I'd go OE), which pretty much doubles this "refresh". To those that have taken apart their suspension at 100k+, are these often worn?

Thanks in advance,
-Cyrus




Thanks,
-Cyrus

[Patrick-Irish]

I changed the bushings #7 at 115k miles. They were badly worn. I also changed the other arm #10. They were wobbling. It has most definitely resulted in a noticeable improvement to ride quality and stability of the steering. Those ball joints are an absolute bitch to pop by the way ... get ready for a big fight. I couldn't find a ball joint separator big enough to do the job (the lugs are way thicker and longer than any I've ever seen) so I had to improvise.

[flatlander]

You can replace the LCA bushings without replacing the whole arm, but you'll need a press to get the old ones out and the new ones in. The arms don't wear out unless they've been bent. You can also buy arms with bushings already pressed in. I recommend Meyle HD bushings. I've tried replacement BMW, and power flex polyeurethanes, but they did not last as long or ride as nice as the HD's.

There's a harbor freight front end kit that has a separator that works on the Forward control arm ball joint. The balljoint stays in the steering knuckle. If it is loose, you'll need to replace it as well. However, it is very difficult to get out.

[Sundayjumper]

Originally Posted by flatlander

You can replace the LCA bushings without replacing the whole arm, but you'll need a press to get the old ones out and the new ones in.

I did mine earlier this year, I cut the old ones out with a hacksaw and pressed the Powerflex replacements using a length of 10mm threaded rod, a couple of large sockets and some wood. The Powerflex go in quite easily, I think you'd need a press to fit the OE bushes.

[tonggi]

let me know i have two brand new OE #7 parts. Previous owner bought them but never put them in since they aren't creating any noise.

Off topic. Part #7 is the part you can get from powerflex to replace it to poly correct?

[flatlander]

Does anyone know the proper way to remove part number 15 in the Real OEM diagram? It's the ball joint that point downward and connects the lower control arm to the steering knuckle.

It seems to be pressed into the knuckle and then bolted in. Mine will not come out. It looks like you'd have to remove the axle nut and brakes, and then press out the axle to get a straight shot at the top of the ball joint. Then hammer it out from above. Does anyone have experience with this?

[mobilejo]

Originally Posted by flatlander

Does anyone know the proper way to remove part number 15 in the Real OEM diagram? It's the ball joint that point downward and connects the lower control arm to the steering knuckle.

It seems to be pressed into the knuckle and then bolted in. Mine will not come out. It looks like you'd have to remove the axle nut and brakes, and then press out the axle to get a straight shot at the top of the ball joint. Then hammer it out from above. Does anyone have experience with this?

Bump on this.

[2001x4.4]

bump, please. Wondering about the same procedure.

[mobilejo]

I ended up taking mine to a garage to do.

Once the 2 nuts are out, the only thing holding that ball joint in place is corrosion. It can be removed without taking the hub off by heating the knuckle around it (they used a blow torch on mine) and then attacking the old ball joint with brute force (while not damaging the knuckle of course) - they used an air chisel on mine.