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#11
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If you pull the torque converter you will see the fluid too. If there are chunks in the fluid then your transmission is toast. Use the same transmission fluid brand because that is what the clutch packs have already soaked up. Since you are dropping the transmission, do it properly so you wont have to drop it again. |
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#12
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It has 148k miles. Even if it was driven gently, that's miracle miles for these tranny's, according to this forum. And how it was driven has no effect on the other part failures I've experienced.
The shop is dropping the pan when they do the converter. If there's chunks of stuff, he's rebuilding it. If not, it's just getting a converter and filter/flush. I don't care what fluid is in it. I changed my Explorers trans fluid at 140k with Wolfs Head and every trans problem it had went away, and that thing is still running perfect, so I don't buy into the "clutch plated get used to a certain fluid" idea. If anything, you just need to use a fluid that meets the spec, so the friction properties are correct. Whether wolfs head meets the spec is debatable apparantly, but the shop said they'll warranty damages caused by the fluid, as it's specifically stated that it meets LT 71141. I'm not using Esso LT71141 because the flush machine needs 16 quarts, plus ~5 for top off. That nearly exceeds the price of the entire converter replacement.
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#13
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I am very sorry, but What?! 16 quarts. How does that mashine work? I truly don't know. If it doesn't have "chunks of suff" why not just change the damn fluid?
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#14
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Most trans flush machines Are just a cylinder with a piston in the middle. You disconnect one of your trans hoses, and connect it to one side of the cylinder. The other side of the cylinder is connected to the other open end of the hose on the car. In one side of the cylinder, you have 16qts of new fluid. The old fluid goes into the other side, pushes on the piston, and new fluid goes into the trans. The exact amount that comes out, goes back in. It's about as good of a flush as you can do without disassembling the trans. But, you need to do 12-16 qts, as the new fluid mixes with the old fluid during the flush. It takes about 10-20 minutes depending.
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#15
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Hi i had the dreaded shudder also al that was changed was the convertor and fixed drives great no probs
cheers weso09 |
#16
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Oh, I see. Thanks for info. And just draining and filling will not do I gues...?
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#17
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I'm in exactly the same position as the OP with my 2001 4.4i. Shudder at about 1500rpm / 25mph and seems to be getting more intense and more regular. Also getting the pulsing of revs when driving uphill at around 50mph.
I like the car, the size, the comfort, the performance, but just cannot see the sense in spending £2k putting a new gearbox in a car that's worth <£5k. That's on top of the £800 I've already spent in the first eight months of ownership. I rarely keep cars for more than a year so I begrudge spending that kind of money when it'll mostly benefit future owners rather than me !! I'd happily ditch it (at a large loss, natch) and buy another one if I thought this was just a bad apple but it seems they're all like this. I've had loads of E36s over the years and they've all been great. I had a 2002 E39 and that was awful, riddled with problems including the gerarbox. E53s seem to be the same. I even toyed with the idea of an E65 until I read a buyers guide that listed all the problems they suffer from. What's up with the early noughties BMWs ?? Are the later ones (E60, E90) any better ? So my decision now is between getting a new TC fitted, or selling it as-is needing a new TC. Either way I lose a lot of money |
#18
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Jgood, do some research on that Wolfs Head trans fluid and make sure that it meets the Esso specs. $15.00 a liter for the Esso is cheap. Local BMW dealer charges $42.00 per liter. Audi charges 22.00 per liter for the exact same thing.
I do have a question. How did the mechanic check the fluid? Theres no dipstick, so did he take off the fill plug and then refill it with the old fluid? |
#19
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Quote:
The reason it matters with your transmission is due to the transmission design. Read about the lock up clutch change that requires a fluid with a specific friction characteristic. That is why ZF came up with that fluid spec, to solve a specific problem. Now, if your shop is guaranteeing it will work, fine, go ahead. I would be a little worried that they think it meets the spec, however. I do agree with you that clutch plates don't get used to a certain fluid. They do require a fluid with specific friction characteristics though. And I don't think that your Explorer transmission had the same issues as the ZF design in this respect.
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#20
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Replaced the converter, used the wolfs head fluid. Shifting is smooth, converter lockup is smooth and strong, shuddering is gone, RPM jumping is gone, and the slight vibration at idle in drive while stopped is gone.
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