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  #51  
Old 02-04-2012, 10:02 AM
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Phil,

really sounds not so optimistic but when I read what you write is seems to be repairable. Unfortunately the BMW guys - and I am really in a very good garage - see it a different way. Is that normal for BMW garages NOT to repair the trannies but simply replace them? Or should I anyway go to a rebuilder with that problem?

Thank you again. Really appreciate your help on that!!

All the best, Helmuth
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  #52  
Old 02-04-2012, 11:38 AM
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Iím sure the dealerships feel itís more cost effective (for them) to just replace the whole transmission. Itís unlikely that any of their technicians will have been trained to do anything more than a TC or valve block swap on an automatic transmission anyway. The transmissionís running gear is not included in the BMW parts lists so theyíd be unable to get spare parts through their usual system.

If the torque converter LUC problem was due to a weakness in the converter itself then I might recommend simply swapping it for a new/re-manufactured unit (which is exactly what happens with the ZF units). Unfortunately, as the failure stems from the hydraulic control system, the moment the TC is replaced the failure cycle will start over again because you havenít cured the root cause.

Generally, therefore, if youíre having to replace the TC and the valve block and clean out all the running gear due to the metallic debris contamination, you might just as well fit a replacement transmission. If youíre going to do that, you might as well continue to run your transmission until it starts to drop into failsafe or refuses to engage Drive.

All of the above assumes, of course, that the metallic debris generation process is already underway in your transmission Ė so you really need to have the fluid checked before deciding what to do next.

Phil
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  #53  
Old 02-04-2012, 11:59 AM
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Thank you again Phil.

The dealer has changed the transmission oil ~2000 km before and unfortunately I did not ask how it looked like. The oil change made the rattling a little bit better but it did not disappear. Will have the oil changed again at the next service and will ask of course.

I hope my tranny doesn't fail when I am far far away from home.

Great members in this forum BTW !!!

Helmuth
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  #54  
Old 02-05-2012, 02:34 PM
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Hi guys - great level of knowlege here - very impressed!


I hope somebody might find this scenario familiar - with my 2006 4.8iS I am now getting a harsh vibration on idling which cycles 30 seconds on, 7-8 seconds off - I can feel it through the steering and dash, and had a good listen in the parking lot today - seems to be coming from under the left bank as you would look at it from under the hood. The 'on' phase coincides with a hydraulic charging sound (hiss), the vibration gets bigger, then tapers off and dies on the 'off' phase.

The problem is worse from cold starting after at least a couple of hours; at the same time there is a very hard / late shift from 1st to 2nd gear, but not any other gear change. The oil temp seems to be nailed to 50 for the first 5-10 mins although it warms up to 90-ish after 10 mins driving.

I tried changing for a lighter grade oil, new ATF, tranny filter and gasket, had new fuel pump and filter, replaced power steering hoses (slow leak), trickle charging, each of which has improved the ride, but I have yet to nail this one. Please don't let me rationalize and trade my beautful car in for something completely boring!!
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  #55  
Old 02-06-2012, 01:51 PM
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Arrow Tranny Issues..

This is for you Sir Phil,
Car: 4.6is, 02, 129K, DINAN II trans software

Symtoms:
1. Harsh thump from 2-1

2. REVS seem to be high but the beast does not seem to be moving like it used to. It does get going after 40+ from start, but taking off very slow..dragging.

3. Service Engine light comes ON & OFF. no particular interval with no warnings, it has never experienced Trans fail code yet.. (TW)

4. It does seem like the tranny is slipping 4-5 gear.

Thanks for all your help mate!
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4.6is: Dinan stage III, CAI, type 215 grey with Conti DWS, Black grill, Tints, HID fogs, LED interior lights...
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  #56  
Old 02-08-2012, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmugur View Post
Symptoms: Failure to engage reverse gear was a common problem with early 5HP24s
Findings: the F-clutch piston seal, which was bonded/welded in one piece to the back of the pressed metal piston, would wear badly and eventually leak.
Repair:
Suggestion: ZF repair kit $900
Links: RangeRovers.net Forum

link not working (unless it's supposed to take me to the main forum and not to a thread), i'm having this problem and would like to know more about the kit. thank you!
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  #57  
Old 02-08-2012, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isdeleon View Post
link not working (unless it's supposed to take me to the main forum and not to a thread), i'm having this problem and would like to know more about the kit. thank you!
Fixed. For some reason they changed the links on their forum.
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  #58  
Old 02-08-2012, 06:40 PM
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thanks! appreciate it
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  #59  
Old 02-09-2012, 01:13 PM
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I've had my 05 4.4 at the dealer for the following:

1. on quick stops it seems I am catching the trans from downshifting into 1st, so when I quick stop and start it isn't in gear then it jumps because it shifts to first while I have pressed the gas.

2. this is the most annoying of the scenarios... at 40MPH on level ground at a steady speed it seems to slip in and out of gear causing a jerking action.

3. going up or down hills will cause the trans to either stay in a low gear too long before shifting up. it holds the RPMS and no matter if I let off the gas or increase speed it does not shift.

Of course the dealer could not get it to duplicate any of this. Such a waste of time. Initially they thought they would update the codes as they found a scenario where the codes fix this, but come to find out it was for a 3.0 model.

They did set the adaptive learning to defaults so it would re-learn my driving but this is very annoying and I am afraid it meaning something is going wrong with the transmission and I don't want to wait until it completely breaks to fix it.

Kevin
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  #60  
Old 02-16-2012, 11:52 AM
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Phil, Louis and others that know the insides of the 5hp24 tranny I need an advice.

I am at the point where I need to take the tranny down and fix it. Not sure if it's better to buy the transmission kit before I open it up or open it up and then buy what it's needed. Since I don't want to have the car unusable for too long I would prefer to have all the parts before I take it down.

Recently I get the vibration once in a while as well beside a hard upshift o slipage from 3-4 sometimes before warms up.
I already bought the VB kit and I can start with that but this is not going to fix the vibration which is caused by the TC based on what I have been reading so far.
Since I will have the transmission out I would like to rebuild it but what is the package I need for this job? Please see the link below:

Transmission Kit : Automatic, Standard Transmission and Transfer Case Rebuild Kits, Cobra Transmission Parts 1-800-293-1848

Master or Banner kit or what else?

Thanks
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